Horse Isle: Infinite Wilds Help Topics

1) Courses

A) Building

1.A.1 Available Obstacles and How They Work:
The obstacles available are listed below. Some have clockwise and counterclockwise variations and some move; we've indicated which have these in their descriptions here.

Obstacles are sorted on the Course Management page by type. Scroll to the bottom of the Course Management page to view more!

Course Start: This is just the gate you pass through to start your timer.

Course End: This gate stops your timer.

Course Gate: A pass-through gate to help keep you on course.

Floating Course Gate: For kayak and swimming competitions. These can also be placed on ice for speed skating competitions :)

Floating Course Start: Starts an aquatic or icy course.

Floating Course End: Ends an aquatic or icy course.

Vertical Jump: A simple vertical with pole-rails. Faults are accrued by how many of these you knock down.

Hedge Jump: This is hurdle made of arbor vitae plants.

Spread Jump: A triple-bar jump; you are given faults for how many individual poles you knock down.

Bricks Jump: A low faux-brick wall.

Planters Jump A jump with plants in pots on it. For every pot you knock down, you'll get get a fault!

Chicken Coop Jump: A low triangular obstacle.

Filler Board Jump: Just the bottom part of a vertical.

High Board Jump: A board vertical.

Funky Log Jump: A large, brightly-painted log.

Pirouettes: Stop and do a complete turn on this spot before proceeding. These go both clockwise and counterclockwise.

Spins: Stop and do four complete turns on this spot before proceeding. These have clockwise and counterclockwise variations.

90 degree turns: Stop, turn just enough, and carry on.

Walk Forward: Cross this obstacle at a walk, in the direction (and right over) the arrows. This obstacle has one line on either side of the arrows, indicating you need to walk.

Walk Backward: Same as above, but go backward in the direction of the arrows.

Trot Gait: Trot over the arrows, in the direction they show. This obstacle has two lines on either side of the arrows, indicating a trot.

Canter Gait: Canter over the arrows, in the direction they show. This obstacle has three lines on either side of the arrows, indicating a canter.

Rollbacks: These require you to turn around(180 degrees) on the spot in the direction indicated by the arrow.

Barrels: Run in a complete circle around the barrels in the direction indicated on the barrel. We have two variations of these!

Halt: Stop for four seconds, then move to the next obstacle.

Lasso High: A simple object that needs to be hit with a lasso before continuing with the rest of the course.

Air Rings: There are three variations of the Air Rings, each a different height (10m, 25m, and 50m.) These are for the Hang Glider- don't miss the ring or it's going to be very hard to complete an air course!

Moving Obstacles

Moving Oxer Jump: This multi-poled moving obstacle is similar to our Vertical Jump, except this one moves up and down. A horse with high Jump Power and a rider with excellent timing will be best for this.

Moving Board Jump: This Moving Board Jump also moves up and down and will require both skill and great ability on the rider's part.

Lasso Spin: This spinning target will test a competitor's ability to lasso a moving target.

Lasso Bounce: This moving target bounces up and down. Timing and practice will help you complete this target.


Course Checkpoint: This bright circle on the ground is excellent for endurance courses. Horses will need to simply pass over it to clear it.

Course Fence: Not an obstacle per se, but helps riders line their horses up for another obstacle. You'll get faulted if you hit it!

Low Cavaletto: Also not really an obstacle, but something you need to avoid. Super fun to put these in front of course gates or other jumps to increase the difficulty!

1.A.2 How to Build a Course:

In order to build a course, follow the following steps:

1) Choose a place. You can build a course on your own ranch, or on any patch of unoccupied land, so long as it is not too close to someone else's course. Remember, these are Infinite Wilds! There's no shortage of room, let's not crowd and confuse each other.

2) On the top menu, click Courses. A window will come up saying, "Build or manage your own obstacle courses." To start a new course, click Add.

3) Once you've done this, you'll see the Manage Course window. Here you can do a number of things:

Name your course. Name it anything you want, but keep in mind that very long names won't fit on the sign. You can change the name of your course at any time.
Set the time penalty. Since the game keeps track of time to complete the course, faults are automatically added to time. Here you can decide how many seconds (in tenths of a second increments) you want to add to a player's time for things like hitting an obstacle, going off course, or whatever.
Set the Horse Source Rule. From this pull-down menu, you can restrict who runs your course in a number of ways. You can limit it to only Ordered horses, or horses who were caught wild, or were bred by a player, and several other options.
Set LifeCycle Rule. You can limit your course to horses who have a Natural life cycle, or to those who are Eternal, or to those who are Extended... or not.
Set Water Rule. You can direct riders/kayakers/swimmers to stay in the water, or everyone to stay out of it, if you like.
Set Terrain Rules. Want people to say on paths, beaches or ice? You can set that here.
Set Transport Rule. Plenty of options here! You can disallow changing horses in mid-course, or specify that a course is kayak or skis only, or that horses can't be used at all, or several other things.

NOTA BENE: You must click SAVE COURSE SETTINGS for any of these to take effect!

4) Place your starting obstacle. There are two available: one for land and one for water.

5) Set up your course.

Start by setting up your Starting Gate. Click BUILD, and you'll see the gate in ghosted (transparent) form. Move your player to select the spot on which you'd like to place your gate, then hold down your left (or right, if you're a lefty) mouse button to turn the gate in the direction you desire. Releasing the mouse button will build the actual gate. These steps will serve for setting up all future obstacles, just remember: red (diamond) on the right!

Once you have set up your start obstacle, the course setup window changes, and you will see many more options for a great variety of obstacles you can add. Please do exercise some care when placing obstacles, though, and make sure horses and riders have plenty of room to prepare for the next one.

6) End your course. By default a course end will loop back to the start. Otherwise you can put up a Finish gate. You can't add to the end of course unless you remove the Finish gate (though you can insert and manage obstacles if you're not happy with your current setup.)

7) For any corrections, you can DELETE or insert BEFORE or AFTER any
existing obstacle. To do this just click ABOUT on one of the obstacles.

Your course is done! Anyone who/whose horse fits the requirements may now compete on it. You can make changes to your course any time you want, although keep in mind that all previous results gotten on the original course will be wiped out.

1.A.3 Number of Courses:
You can build additional courses if you permanently unlock the slot with Essence. The more courses you wish to build, the more Essence you'll need to collect; but if you're willing to explore and put the effort in, you can always unlock more slots.

Should you delete a course, the slot you unlocked for that course will remain unlocked on your account. You'll never lose your course slots!

1.A.4 Where To Build Courses:
Clubs have a 1km range of protection around themselves. So unless you are a Gold club member you cannot build in that area. There is also minimum distance from other course obstacles which may block placement. Otherwise you can build a course pretty much anywhere you like that isn't owned by another player.

Players that own a Preserve are the only ones that may build courses upon it.

Please note that while you can't build a course on another person's ranch, someone may build a ranch on your course. It's best to build your courses away from populated areas to prevent this from happening.

B) Competitions

1.B.1 Collisions:
During competitions you can pass through other players and horses. This is done so that others cannot block you and makes sure everyone has the same chance. So do not worry about avoiding impacts during a competition.

1.B.2 Competition Tips:
1) Your time does not start until you go through the start gate. So, you may wait and stagger your start until opponents have cleared a bit so that you don't get lost in the confusion :)

2) if you get a running start through the start gate, it could improve your time on a short race course!

3) Beware of the rules. oftentimes breaking the rules will be more of a time penalty than taking a little extra time to follow them.

1.B.3 Draft Competitions:
Draft horses are the ultimate pulling machines, long used for farm work and pulling heavy carriages. In Horse Isle, they have a slightly different purpose: Pulling stone boats.

A stone boat is a weighted sled; each stone slab adds more weight to the sled. Most normal sized horses are able to pull the stone boat with at least one stone slab, though at a significant hit to speed. You can find how many stone weights your horse is able to pull at the bottom of their performance metrics on their profile.

Sled Speed

Let's say I have a Ban Ei (his name is Samurai) with the following sled speeds:

81 63 44 26 7 0 0

This means that at one stone, Samurai can pull at 81% of his total speed, at two stones he can pull at 63% of his normal speed- all the way down to five stones at 7%. Samurai cannot pull a sled with six or seven stone slabs in it unless I train him.

Required Stats

Strength is very important in training your draft horse, but Speed and Intelligence are equally important! A good draft competitor needs the strength to pull the sled, be able to go fast, and to have a quick reaction time. (A horse that isn't very bright won't react to your commands if it needs to turn!)


The best horses for weight pulling are, hands down, what players lovingly refer to as 'chonks.' A heavy draft type cannot be beaten in terms of weight pulling and are in a class of their own- a Shire is tall and faster, but they lack the ability to pull as much weight as even an untrained heavy draft. There is simply no competition :)

The Sleds

You do not need to unlock the stone boat, harness, or anything involved with the draft competition! These things are automatically equipped to your horse when the competition begins or if you hit "Try."


Draft horse competitions cannot include jumps. A horse cannot jump with a stone boat equipped!

1.B.4 Entering:
To enter a competition, click the Competitions board in the club the competition is being hosted at.

You'll need to press ENTER on the window that pops up and boom! Entered in the competition :)

You may forfeit a competition by clicking COURSES and hitting FORFEIT on the course.

1.B.5 Fast Stopping:
Standard Halt

Holding SHIFT will stop your horse as quickly as possible.

Sliding Stop

One of the most stunning movements seen in the Reining discipline is the sliding stop. With training, this stop blows up dirt and dust for up to 20 feet!

This sliding stop is slightly faster than the normal stop when you hit Shift, but requires a few more things to 'tell' your horse the kind of stop you want. Your horse must be equipped with the following tack on their feet:

Rubber bell boots, and polo wraps OR skid boots OR splint boots.

If the horse is wearing these and you hit SHIFT, you can see them perform this very neat animation! This is faster than stopping without the reining gear.

1.B.6 How to Set Up a Competition:
Competitions are run on normal obstacle courses that club members have built. Anyone can build an obstacle course. But only Silver members and above of clubs can hold actual competitions. Only Gold+ members may build courses and place obstacles within the Club Region.

Clubs can arrange for their members to hold competitions by building a Competition Board. Once this has been done, Silver Members+ can arrange competitions by clicking Read on the board and choosing Add A Competition. They can choose which of their member's courses they want the competition to be run on, arrange a time for the competition to start (be careful not to accidentally arrange a course at dark), set the entry fee, set the minimum and maximum number of entrants, and the payout (descending payout, winner-take-all or all fees going to the hosting club).

It's not necessary to host competitions only on nearby courses, and entrants will have the option of Quick Travel to the course once they have entered.

1.B.7 Mane Event:
Mane Event gives players a free travel invite to a randomly selected course (under ten minutes for the best finish time and given 4* or higher by 25 or more players). TRY'ing the course will give you a base payout of $1200, and every player you beat will give you an additional $150. Typing %MANEEVENT into chat will give you the current status and the leaderboard. the Mane Event Completer award is given just for competing; the Mane Event Winner award is given for winning! (Winner, winner, chicken dinner! :) )

This is a fantastic way to try out new courses by talented players- perhaps you'll pick up a new discipline!

Time to Complete:

You'll have between :01 on the hour and :59 on the hour to get the best score possible. Practice makes perfect, so if you don't get the score you want the first time, you can keep trying! There's no limit to how many times you can try, save for the amount of time allotted (and your horse's patience.)

Courses Alternate:

Courses alternate between narrow rules (breed specific, stay on foot, stay on horse, stay on kayak!) and standard (typically no special rules or stay on same horse) every odd and even hour.

Everyone can participate in the standard rules courses. Not everyone will be able to complete the mane event in a narrow rules course.

1.B.8 Notes for Non-Competitors:
If you happen to be catching wilds in an area that happens to be on a course, please be aware that anyone--or several people!--may come barreling past you at any time, and they are not going to stop! Their racing past will scatter any wilds they pass too close to. So, a word to the wise: trying to catch wilds standing anywhere near competition obstacles is an iffy thing! If you know competitors are coming your way, it will be in your interests to chase the wild away from the obstacles before trying to catch it.

1.B.9 Practice Runs:
You can test out any course by going up to the start box, clicking on it and choosing "Try." Practicing costs nothing, and you may practice as many times as you like. See Trying for more information.

1.B.10 Win Count:
In your horse's history, you may see a tally of show and competition wins. There are, however, requirements for these to tally up!

Competitions must be longer than 10 seconds, and have a minimum of 3 people finish for it to count.

Shows must have more than 3 entrants for a win to count.

C) Faults

1.C.1 Fault Penalties:
In this game, every fault (violation of a course rule, colliding with objects in the terrain, refusal on the part of the horse, etc), incurs a time fault, which is added to your overall course-completion time at the conclusion of the event. How many seconds a fault will cost you is up to the course designer; some are more lenient than others.

For example, say you are competing on a course where a fault is worth 5 seconds. You complete the course in 60 seconds but incur 3 faults. These three faults will then add 15 seconds to your total time, which will then be an official time of 75 seconds.

Rules broken incur one fault per second per rule broken! So, wandering into water even a little but when course rules are set to avoid water can be a big penalty.

D) Horse Shows

1.D.1 General Notes On Horse Shows:
If you don't like jumping, spinning around or going as fast as you can, then a Horse Show might be for you! Horse Shows are organized by players and held at clubs.

In order for a club to host a Horse Show, they'll need to build a show platform first- the horses being judged will stand here for all to see! If you don't have a show platform, you simply won't get the option to host a Horse Show.

1.D.2 Horse Shows vs. Competitions:
Competitions and Horse Shows are both run via the Competition Boards at clubs; but there, the similarity ends. While judging of competitions over/with obstacles is objective and done by the game itself, Horse Shows are often subjective, and are judged by players. Competitions can be held anywhere in the wilds where a course has been built; Horse Shows are held on Show Platforms in Club Towns. Horse shows can include Halter Shows, contests for the Largest, Smallest or Prettiest Horse, etc, and all decisions of the judge (or judges) is FINAL.

1.D.3 Entering a Horse Show:
Entering a horse show is essentially the same as entering a competition. Go to the club Competition Board and check for shows you might be interested in, and enter by clicking Enter. You will then have to choose the horse you are entering from your own list of horses. Once you have entered a horse, you cannot change horses unless you forfeit first.

1.D.4 Hosting a Horse Show:
If you would like to host a Horse Show, go to your club's Competition Board and choose Horse Show. You will be taken to the "Create Horse Show" window. Here you will:

1) Name your show. You can choose any name you like, but a name that gives a description of what is being judged will help encourage entries. "Horse That Looks Most Like A Moose" is good; "Davy Jones Memorial Show" is not.

2) Set your scoring criteria. This is very important! Be as specific as you can in telling prospective entrants what exactly you are looking for, and not looking for. Include whether or not you want to see the horse wearing tack, and, if so, what tack specifically you're asking for. Then stick to these criteria! Word will get around if you don't. You don't want your club to get a bad reputation!

3) Invite other judges. Type in their player names in the box provided; use a comma to separate them if you are inviting more than one. Leader+ members are automatically invited to judge.

4) Set the start time, entry fee and minimum number of entrants (the show will be cancelled if there are not enough entrants and your entry fee will be refunded).

5) Select the payout. Nota Bene: If the proceeds from the show are benefitting a club, it's a good idea to say so in the club description, or even the show title (e.g., "Etcetera Club Benefit Halter Show").

E) Rules

1.E.1 Explanation of Rules:
Course designers may make rules that, if broken, will incur a fault (penalty) for every second the rule is broken. These are to make certain courses more challenging! The following section gives an explanation for each rule that may be set. The default for each is No Rule.

Horse Source Rule: This rule specifies where the horse must have been obtained from- the wild, a horse you or someone bred, or ordered. It also lets the course designer specify if they do NOT wish for these horses to compete.

LifeCycle Rule This rule is to restrict whether or not you allow Eternal horses to compete, or set gender restrictions for Natural horses.

Water Rule: This rule is one that keeps people in or out of the water- it's rather useful for kayak races!

Terrain Rule: The terrain rule specifies if you must stay on paths, the beach, or ice.

Transport Rule: This rule specifies your mode of transport- staying on a horse, staying on the same horse, NO horses, kayaks only, pony carts only, horse carts only, hang gliders only, sailboats or skis only.

Draft Sled Weight: This turns your course into a Draft Horse competition, where stone boats are pulled. The more plates you add, the harder it will be to pull!

Additional Rules: These rules add another challenge to your competitions. You can require that stamina remain above a certain level, require passengers, that horses be under or over a certain height, that the horses have a minimum training amount or can't be over a certain amount of training, or limit what ages can compete.

Breed Rules: Selecting a breed from this dropdown will restrict your course to only allowing members of a certain breed. Selecting "Allow Sub Breeds" will enable all sub breeds to compete, as well. Selecting a Grade breed plus Allow Sub Breeds will enable all breeds under that 'umbrella' to compete- for example, Grade Gaited Saddle Horse will enable ALL of the gaited saddle horses to compete.

Max Horse Height: This will let you set the tallest a horse must be to compete. Sort of like a roller coaster for little ones, this lets you keep taller horses out of competitions.

Min Horse Height: This will let you set a rule that sets how tall a horse must be to compete.

Max Horse Training: This will let you set how much training a horse can have to compete.

Min Horse Training: This will let you set how well-trained a horse must be to compete.

Min Horse Weight: This rule lets you set how heavy a horse must be to compete without faults.

Max Horse Weight: This rule will allow you to set how much a horse can weigh at max- usually good for keeping heavier horses out of a competition.

Minimum Breed Conformation: This lets you set how close to perfection a horse must be to compete without faults. Nota Bene: Horses who wish to compete fault-free in these courses must have been conformation tested.

Minimum Breed Purity: This will allow you to set how pure a horse must be to compete in your course without faults. A horse competing in this must have both a breed and meet the minimum breed percentage.

Another reminder- breaking any of these rules will incur faults every second until you stop breaking them!

F) Trying

1.F.1 Trying a Course:
Trying out a course before you join an actual competition on it is extremely useful if you are serious about competition (it's also just plain fun.) You'll be able to see if, perhaps, a particular course has jumps too high for your horse, or turns too tight. More importantly, trying out a course familiarizes you with the course layout, which will be of enormous help to you once you compete on it.

To try a course, just click on the START sign and press TRY. Regular course rules apply; breaking them will give you faults which in turn affect your final time.

Green columns identify the next obstacle, and these are easy to see from almost anywhere. In addition, a heading is also automatically made for finding ones farther afield and those obscured by fog or world objects.

Upon completing the course, your time is recorded if it was better than a previous attempt. You'll get a scrolling notification if your time was better or worse than your previous attempt, as well!

Trying a course will give your horse an experience payout, as well! For every 30 seconds, the course will give you 1exp with a max payout of 10exp. This is DOUBLED if you've beaten your personal best score!

2) Economy

A) Currencies

2.A.1 What is Essence?:
Essences carry the Magic of the Infinite Wilds, and each biome has its own unique kind. You'll see them as floating, bobbing spheres or crystals with glowing yellow cores. A certain number of essence are needed to do almost everything in the Wilds, from talking in Global and Ads Chat, unlocking equipment, competition course slots, travel journal slots, and making more room in your store. It's really rather important!

Unlike other forms of currency in the Wilds, Essence cannot be bought, sold or traded. When you gather Essence (by running over to it, or just standing still near it, it will come to you!), it is yours exclusively until you spend it.

On the right side of the screen, you'll see a golden ball with the number of Essence you currently have unspent. If you mouse-over that ball, you'll see a breakdown of the total Essences you've collected since you joined. Purchasing some tools requires that you have collected a certain number of Essence from a particular biome (for example, purchasing a kayak requires you to have collected 250 Mediterranean Essence in your time in the game, although you do not have to have all those same essence when you buy the kayak).

Subscribers earn 3 Essence for each one they run into--or that runs into them--as a reward for supporting the game and those who work on it. Non-subscribed players earn one.

Making an Adventure Party shares collected essence by making more! Each Adventure Party Member nearby will get the essence as well.

2.A.2 What is Gold Dust?:
Gold Dust is the main inter-player currency of HI3. Gold dust is also the currency you'll use to purchase things from clubs and club stores. You can earn it by selling things, either to stores or other players. You can also find it "in the wild;" Mother Horse Stones, Meteorites and Pirate Treasures are scattered throughout the wilds, and clicking on them to collect them will reward you with some gold.

2.A.3 What is Mobia?:
Mobia is the way the game is supported and expanded. As such, it is purchased via real money at $1 USD = 100 Mobia (so each Mobia equals a penny). These can be purchased via the Mobia Store on website, and spent via the Shop tab in game. Mobia can be bought, sold and traded in the game.

Mobia is used for:

Purchasing Memberships. A one-month membership costs 500 mobia; a one year membership costs 4,000 mobia.

Ordering Horses. You can order a purebred horse of the breed of your choice for 700 mobia. A Super horse order costs 1200 mobia and you'll get the chance to see the color, height, and age of the horse before purchasing, a bit like window shopping.

Purchasing a Club. A club costs 8,000 mobia. Purchasing a club is a one time fee, you do not need to pay more to maintain it.

Purchasing Amulets. Amulets are put on a horse for a number of reasons: make the horse live forever, shorten foaling time, age faster, or protect against injury. Amulets are forever, they do not expire or vanish off of your horse or account unless purposefully traded away.

Purchasing a Magical Wild Horse Whistle. This is a one use item that will summon eight wilds specific to the biome you're in. Check the library's biome information for horses native to specific biomes!

Changing Your Username. After your initial free username change, it'll cost 100 mobia to change your username.

Making a Certification. You may create a sort of registry in game for whatever your heart desires- certain personalities, looks, colors, or breeds? Maybe you want to make your own horse breed!

Gaining a Higher Horse Max. You may increase your account's horse slot limit to greater than 300 with this special Horse Max Extender item. Please see the Horse Slots section for more details on this.

Purchasing a Server Boost Party. This fun purchase gives everyone online a 1,000 point boost to Travel, Focus, and Energy, and gives you the adoration of the players.

If you are not an adult, be sure you have parent or guardian's permission before trying to purchase anything on the internet!

B) Earning Money

2.B.1 Ways to Earn Money:

1. Selling horses to Horse Trader. Don't want that wild you just caught? The Horse Traders in town are always on the lookout for horses for their clients. They'll pay more for some horses than for others, and traders in different towns are usually looking for different things. Travel around! That horse will be just perfect for someone!

2. Completing Puzzles in the world. There are all kinds of puzzles and minigames in the world; most biomes have minigames specific to that biome. Keep searching! Infinite Wilds mean infinite puzzles, so if you find one you really, really enjoy, you're sure to be able to fine plenty more!

3. Finding Treasures. We don't know exactly who these pirates are, but they bury chests of gold all over the shorelines! And they keep doing it! So follow the shorelines to find riches! You'll find Mother Horse Stones (remember these from HI2) randomly scattered about the place, and fallen meteors containing gold dust!

4. Mail Delivery Jobs from Post Offices. These are a great way to earn some gold and find new areas at the same time. But remember to deliver on time! Mail missions also offer quest points.

5. Achievement Rewards. There are a number of things you can do to earn these; catch wild horses, hike around on foot, win competitions, play minigames, train horses, and many others. The awards themselves are stars, which you can see by clicking Myself and choosing "View Their Awards." There are many levels of awards, and the higher the level, the more gold dust is awarded for reaching it!

6. Wishing Well Coins. If you are a member, you'll get Wishing Well Coins. Toss these into a fountain at any club village that has one, and you'll usually receive some gold dust (though at times, other things may be awarded).

7. Toss Essence into a Wishing Well. If you're really strapped for cash, you can always toss some Essence into the Wishing Well, which will exchange it for gold dust. Keep in mind, though, that this should be a last resort: Essences are worth much more than the gold you'll get for them!

8. Selling Items to Stores. Most village and player stores will buy items from you. Check around; different stores buy different things, and some will offer better prices than others.

9. Trading with other Players. Collect stuff! Other players always need something, and if you can supply that something, you can sell it to them.

10. Winning Competitions. Apart from competitions run to benefit a club, you can make a little money by winning a competition, and sometimes by placing or showing as well. Purses are set by the club running the event.

11. Exporter. The exporter may be found in a club village, they are usually looking for delivery of certain items and will pay for getting them. You may take on as many Exporter missions as you like; you have 30 hours to complete them before they expire. Exporter missions also offer quest points.

2.B.2 Where Are the Banks?:
Unlike HI1 and HI2, there are no banks in the Infinite Wilds, nor are there windmills. This reduces greatly the inflation of the economy. Much more gameplay is required to earn currencies in HI3. So, while you may miss "easy" money, it will definitely make the economy more fair in the long run.

2.B.3 Where to Find Gold Dust:
Gold dust can be found almost everywhere in the Wilds, so keep an eye out for the following:

Pirate Treasures. We don't know who they are or what they're up to, but pirates keep coming to the shores of the Wilds and burying treasures here. (Must be very philanthropic pirates to mark their treasures' locations so obviously!) Dig up the treasures and open the chests to earn the gold dust inside.

Pots of Gold. Pots of gold at the ends of rainbow arcs can be found all over the Wilds. Unlike HI1 and HI2, you can't collect these by simply riding over them; you need to click on them to collect them. These will reward you with varying amounts of gold dust.

Mother Horse Stones. You may remember these from HI2, where they were found exclusively in the desert. In the Wilds, you can find them anywhere. Sometimes they are standing upright, and sometimes they've been knocked over, so keep a sharp lookout for them.

Meteorites. Yup, they hit the ground a lot around these parts, and you'll find them lying in small craters. Picking one up will turn it into gold dust. Pretty cool, yes?

Water Fountains. You can toss some essence in for gold dust if you're desperate (though the payout is often pretty low.)

Gold Panning. You can pan for gold in rivers, provided you've unlocked the Gold Pan tool in Equipment.

2.B.4 Server Challenges and Spotlights:
Another great way to earn gold dust is by completing a Server Challenge or winning a Server Spotlight.

Server Challenges are fun little server-wide games (catching the most wilds of anyone online, collecting the most essence, or finding the most treasures, or travelling the farthest on horseback.) Compete with other players- the server will keep a tally of your progress and will update as you go. When these server challenges come up, you've got five minutes to complete them!

Server Spotlights feature players online that are farthest away from world center (North, South, East, and West,) most horses, fewest horses, and the most barn slots. These are automatically rewarded to those players that qualify for the Spotlight.

Server Games are fun, automated challenges put up by the server. These come with a Free Party Trip that will allow free fast travel to the club the server chose to host the game.

The Star Search will put out an essence star (worth 250 essence!) Our Trading Card Game will put four of a single type of element card in your inventory and you'll have to trade with other players to get the full set.

The Server Games also include the Water Balloon Fight. For five minutes, you'll have the chance to throw balloons at everyone. You'll earn five points for every UNIQUE player hit, but lose a point every time you're hit! For every additional hit on a player, you'll earn a single point. After a number of hits, though, they'll be too soaked to count and you'll have to find another player to soak! The player with the most points at the end of the ten minute mark, wins! Win enough Balloon Fights and you'll earn yourself the Luftballoon award.

We also have an old favorite, the Trading Card Game. You've ten minutes to collect all four Elemental Cards (Fire, Earth, Air, and Water) to win a prize and get closer to the Elemental awards!

Stranger Things pairs you up with a random stranger, and you're given things by winning! You have five minutes to get within 30 meters of your selected stranger. Winners receive a Wishing Coin and an Esroh Essence! When this game comes up, it'll register in your Server Chat as to whom you're meant to meet up with.

Highest Terrain and Deepest Oceans- Whoever is at the current highest altitude will win this spotlight! We also have Deepest Oceans, for those with the lowest altitude!

Essence Anomaly- sometimes, a magical Essence anomaly will appear up to 30 square kilometers from a randomly selected club! This is a game multiple people can win, and everyone that finds it within 30 minutes will be granted between 150 and 200 essence. Use the %invitetome command to invite more people to your location! Big hint: The sound effects in game will go silent as you near the anomaly.

Photo Hunt- Be the first player to capture the image of a random critter! You have 20 minutes to find and take a photo of the requested critter... unless someone else captures a photo first! You'll be granted $5000 for your win and each win is tracked by the Wabbit Hunter award.

Snowball Fight! In a "provide your own snowballs" game, you are now tasked with tossing as many snowballs at other players as possible in three minutes. You must craft your own snowballs! The server will not provide your ammo here :) But you can score multiple times on one person, no limit. Fire away!

2.B.5 Weekly Challenges:
Every week, we run three different challenges for the entire game. These are entirely random, and can be anything from most export missions completed to most essence collected to furthest ridden distance on a horse.


Use the chat command %CHAL to see the current standings, or just click Players and then Challenge at the bottom of the window :)

The Top 10 placements will get four Esroh Essence, and the Top 100 will get 2 Esroh Essence. You'll also get 100 gold dust for every challenger you've placed higher than (though this is maxed out at 10k.)

In the event of a tie, the tied players will get the same placing, but push back others. So you might see a dozen people tied for first and then 13th place!

Placement changes can take up to a minute to update after you've added to your score, so don't worry if it takes a minute to catch up.

May the games begin!

C) Esroh Fund

2.C.1 What is the Esroh Fund?:
The Esroh Fund is a global collection of gold dust, taken from every player. On the first day of in-game year (about fifteen days), a small percentage of gold dust will be collected and used for In-Game Upkeep (someone's gotta take care of all those wilds, keep up the roads and ancient ruins...!)

Wait... isn't this a tax??
It is! However, it is an even tax- everyone gets the same percentage taken out. While this doesn't hurt players with very little money, a player with a very large amount of money likely won't notice much is missing, either.
Additionally, this will keep things more fair for newer players in the long run by ensuring the economy doesn't have trillions of gold dust in circulation.

What do I get out of it?
These global Fund collections will add up over time, unlocking the Big New Features we have planned for the future! Super fun things, like special emotes (player animations, other fun things- the possibilities are endless!)

Where do I see the Esroh Fund?
The Esroh Fund can be seen in any Post Office, including how much you've contributed to the Fund. There, you can also see how long until the next Fund Collection takes place!

How much will be taken?
Between 1% and 5% will be taken out every 15 days, adjusted depending on what the Esroh Fund feels needs to be taken.

D) Mobia Items

2.D.1 Overview:
There are many things a player may wish to purchase with Mobia, our premium currency. None of these things are required to play the game as we are entirely free to play. But they can add a little more spice!

You may purchase Mobia with in-game currency or through PayPal.

2.D.2 Amulets:
We have two amulet categories; one for Life and one for Protection. Life amulets are for breeding, aging, and immortality and cannot be worn at the same time. Protection amulets keep your horse safe or happy.

Life Amulets

Gravida- Speeds up a mare's pregnancy by x3.
Geminus- Speeds up how quickly a horse ages by x3.
Infinitum- Makes a horse immortal. (Immortal horses are also infertile; any horse that has ever worn one is marked as having an Extended lifecycle and is also infertile.)

Protection Amulets

Adsimulo- Protects a horse's offspring from genetic mutations (NOT somatic). Both the mare and stallion can wear one for double protection.
Transmutio- Protects a horse's offspring from NO genetic mutations, or increases the chances. (Does NOT increase somatic mutations.) Both the mare and stallion can wear one for double effect.
Salus- Protects a horse from injury while being ridden.

2.D.3 Clothing:
Every month has its own special hat that is released in the Mobia Shop. They will always be released in the same month. Some are only available during a limited time during their month... best to collect them quickly! ;)

These hats are noncraftable but can be dyed any color you wish!

Please note that most of these hats have a short window- unless otherwise stated.

January: Snowman
February: Valentines Hat (until February 14th)
March: Leprechaun Hat (until March 17th)
April: Jester Hat (until April 14th)
May: Rainbow Unicorn Hat, Unicorn Hat, Zebra Hat (May 3rd-5th)
May is also the month you may purchase our verrrrry snazzy dyable Zebra Leggings!
June: Ascot Fair Lady Hat
July: Patriotic Boater Hat (band is not dyeable, purchasable by all)
August: Viking Hat
Horse Hat (August 24th-26th)
September: Pirate Hat with Eye Patch
October: Halloween Witch Hat
Stickerable Black Top Hat (item is not dyeable, you can just add a sticker to it!)
November: Wolfenoot Hat
December: Santa Hat (until December 26th)

The exception to this 'single month' is the Slouch Beanie, which runs from November 15th to December 15th.

E) Stores

2.E.1 Buy and Sell Prices:
Stores run by clubs import goods which cannot be found in the Wilds, such as seeds, wool, and iron, so prices for items in stores reflect both the import price (the price the stores paid to import what they're selling) and whatever additional amount the club is charging. Proceeds from club stores directly benefit the club.

Prices in player-owned stores, for both buying and selling, are set by the store owner.

In either case, prices for the same goods can vary widely, so be sure to shop around for the best deals.

When operating your own store, strongly consider offering to Buy and Sell items, as this can have the benefit of refilling your store as well as making more money if lots of buying/selling takes place in a busy village.

2.E.2 Who May Own a Store?:
There are no "ranch stores" in HI3 as there are in HI2. Instead, stores are part of club villages. Club owners can set out store slabs for their club members to build stores on. Once a member builds a store (pays a gold dust build fee), they are free to buy and sell goods, horses and Mobia for whatever prices they choose.
Each store comes with 4 free slots to buy and sell- after that, it costs Essence to unlock.
You may unlock the Merchant perk at a club library to double your available store slots.

You may use a club's Shopping Board to find what you're looking for in any club in the world.

Note: a club member has to be a copper member or higher to purchase a club store.

F) Villages

2.F.1 Clubs Serve as the Towns of This World:
Once a club is established, a village can grow up around it. As club members invest in their clubs, the club can add new buildings. These buildings offer all the standard services that a normal town might provide; clubs may build them in any order they wish.

Buying and selling your items found during explorations is done here, and you can also pick up missions at post offices and Exporters to make a little extra gold dust, provided the club town has these facilities available!

You can find out more about how villages work in under the Clubs topic.

3) Game

A) Books

3.A.1 Book Writing Information:

Players of Horse Isle may write small books. These are limited to 10,000 characters and must pass Club and then Admin Review, much like playermade quests.

There are a few key differences, however, and aspiring novelists must pay heed to these instructions, lest their endeavors be for nought!

Books may be composed at a club's Library. You need to select "Curated Books" or simply type %books into the chat bar to pull up the book menu panel. Please note the SAVE button. It is going to be your best friend in case of crashes, accidental screen exiting, or evil cats tromping across the keyboard at an inopportune time. (Or birds, we've seen it happen.)

All books must follow Horse Isle's rules. Our rules may be found in the actual Rules section, the Help Center, or the Forums. There is no reason to not follow them.
Books must be original creations.


Books must go through a two-step process for review. The first will be Club Review, where a club's owners and managers may first view the book. The second is Admin review, where the admins of Horse Isle will review the book to ensure it meets Horse Isle rules. Mod and Admin Review will not handle typos or spelling errors for you. The window is limited to only ensuring it follows in-game rules.

After carefully curating your life's work, make sure that you select its genre and the penname you're publishing this work under. It is far easier to reach your intended audience if you select this properly!

Books may be published for $10,000 as a review price. This price does not stack (go up) with each book published and you will not get the publish fee back if your book is rejected.

Club Managers and higher may review books up for Club Review using the %MOD panel.

After Publishing

After your book is published, you may wish to send your beloved creation (or manifesto) out into the world, once again by typing %BOOK or at Curated Books in the library. This does require an "Empty Book" item and one must be used for each copy of your book.

Shelving Your Creation

Clubs may create entire libraries of books by adding them to "Curated Book Shelves." Only Managers and Above are capable of doing this. You do not need to be a member of a club to have a club publish your books! In fact, we encourage clubs to collect and curate as large a selection as possible. But you do need to be a member of a club to have books published- it's part of our reviewing process.
Once a book is added, it can also be removed by Managers and higher. The book will return to the original player's inventory to avoid pilfering of precious paper.

You must click READ on your list of books, and from that page, add that book copy to the club library.

Further Notes

Writing is a fun, artistic expression that should be shared and everyone should be encouraged to be engaged in it. We do not have 'talent limits' on what is allowed to be published, though we will reiterate that what is published must fall within our rules.

A Note on Formatting:

Basic formatting is permitted, though anything that makes it harder to read will not be allowed. Please keep in mind that one of the reviewing admins is dyslexic and VERY weird formatting will make it impossible for her to review it properly and it will be sent back. Too much formatting will also eat up your character limit.

Series Creation

If you're feeling limited by the character limits, you may create a series of books. Serials have some historical significance, as well, but we'll behave and not turn this into a forced learning moment. Using "Part 1, Part 2, Part 3" or I, II, III will let people know that it is part of a series and will best be read as one. We aren't using three as a maximum limit, here, it is simply an example and we sort of lose track of what we're saying after three.
Serials do not need to be published all at once. Or you can. As books cannot be edited after publication, however, we do encourage players to consider ahead of time as to whether or not their creation is a standalone or the first in a series. You may link books in a series together through the writing page, as well.

B) Chat

3.B.1 Parental Blocks:
This section is for parents that wish to limit what they can and cannot see while playing Horse Isle: Infinite Wilds. All it takes is a quick email or support ticket with the child's player name and the email used to set up the child's account.

All Chat Block: Your child will not be able to see or send any chats. This is definitely the safest mode, though it may take away some of the Horse Isle experience.

Block Private Chat: Your child will not be able to send or receive any private or buddy chats, but will have access to global, advertisements, area, party, and help chats. This prevents most unwanted contact, but still makes the game playable.

Buddy Only Chat: This mode blocks everything but Buddy chat, which is great for when you want to play with your kids and only want them to chat with you.

3.B.2 How do I bring up the Chat Window?:
If you don't see the chat window, or the line of buttons at the top of the game screen, press ESC (Escape, usually in the upper left corner of your keyboard). Escape toggles the chat screen and top row of menu buttons on and off, and allows you access to the cursor so that you can click on objects or whatever else is on your desktop.

In order to close the chat window and begin travelling again, click anywhere outside the chat window. The window will close and you can carry on discovering new and interesting things.

Quick Chat: A Quicker way to chat quickly is also to just press ENTER while in game, this will pop the chat up and allow you to type, pressing ENTER again will send the chat and close the window.

3.B.3 Combined Chats:
Each chat channel can have other channels included with itself. So, you can opt to see ALL chats at once or only certain channels. Right Clicking or Shift+Clicking another channel with toggle whether it is Combined into current channel. One may also Click the Toggle All Button at top left of channels to toggle all of the other channels for the current selected channel.

Yellow Channel Tab: this is the current Selected chat channel. Mouse click channels to select them.

White Channel Tabs: These are the channels Combined into the current selected channel.

Grey Channel Tabs: These are not being shown with current channel.

3.B.4 Help Chat:
Help chat offers a special channel where players can ask for help or advice from other players. This is also the appropriate place to ask for help with riddles and quests.

New players have a higher 'bank' of chats available to them, and more experienced players will only have a max bank of four (which is built up each time you login.) If you're out of help chats, simply wait a bit and your 'bank' will fill back up.

3.B.5 Chat Flagging:
Clicking a chat three times will bring up the Chat Flag interface on a chat post you think is inappropriate or just plain breaks the rules. Select the severity you think that chat violation falls under and any notes you might have on it. The penalties range from none (may have been an accident) to permanent chat ban (for those really insistent trolls that keep posting non-family friendly stuff.) We really hope our players are able to moderate themselves!

Every user has a Mod-Trust score, depending on how much you play. The more you play, the higher your score (as it's likely you very much value your account and would prefer to not lose it!)

If something very bad happens or multiple people are breaking the rules, the Admins have the ability to completely silence Global Chat until things settle down and appropriate action can be taken.


Abusing the moderation tools will net you a higher punishment than what the chat would have gotten. Don't use the tools to harass someone you don't like- if you don't want to interact with a player, %mute them from PMing you and ignore them. So more big, friendly letters:


3.B.6 Global Chat:
Global chat is available to all players, but each time you use it, you will be charged 5 Essence. It's recommended that if you've got a lot to say or would like to have a conversation with someone to simply use Private or Buddy chat (or Party if there are many people you'd like to talk to.) You'll burn through your Essence pretty quickly if you have a conversation in Global!

3.B.7 Area Chat:
Area Chat allows you to talk only to people near you in the game, about 200m around you. If you can see them, they'll see your area chat.

3.B.8 Club Chat:
Club chat is used when you want to keep a conversation between you and members of your club.

3.B.9 Whisper Chat:
Using /w prefix to your chat will cause you to whisper to players only very nearby. Any received whispers will show up on the Area Chat channel, but will have a different icon and lighter text.

3.B.10 Buddy Chat:
Buddy Chat is what you'll probably be using most. This allows you to speak with all of your buddies who are online. All buddies will be able to see the conversation, though you will not see chat from buddies of buddies who are not buddies with you.

3.B.11 Party Chat:
This channel is reserved for members of an Adventure Party. All members of the party see the same conversation. Party chat will last until you leave the Party, or log off.

3.B.12 Ads Chat:
Ads chat costs the same as global chat, and it is meant for calls to advertise any event or offering you may have. Auctions are also posted in ads chat as soon as they're created. Please do not use it for just communication! Buddy and club chat are cheaper, and more to the point.

3.B.13 Private Chat:
To talk to a single player without anyone overhearing, type /[playername]. For example,

/Princess hello there!

sends a private chat to player Princess.

You can double-click on a chat line by a player to whom you wish to private chat to auto prepare this prefix for you!

If you are chatting in the private channel, it will automatically repeat this prefix for the last player to whom you chatted. (And you don't need the first slash in that channel!)

To set an autoreply in your Private messages, you only need to type %AUTOREPLY followed by your autoreply. ("I can't come to the game right now, please leave a message after the tone...")

3.B.14 Event Chat:
Event chat is used to communicate with other players who are taking part in the same competition as yourself.

3.B.15 System Chat:
System Chat isn't an official chat channel, but it is where you can see the various server games, new player logins, challenges, and Mane Event announcements. You may chat with GAIA here, our artificial game intelligence, though her responses are quite limited. Other players cannot see what you type here, but it is still monitored so you can't get away with being super mean to GAIA ;)

3.B.16 Advanced Chat Features:
Clickable Chat Lines:
Each line of chat is clickable to the following benefit:

1st click: Copies the chat line to clipboard
2nd click: Preps a private chat message to player (the line will be highlighted with a green background, and /[playername] will appear in the chat entry line.
3rd click: Preps a chat for flagging. If the flagging is submitted by a player with enough authority (a player with a high enough mod score, a mod, or an admin) this chat line will be removed.

Chat Shortcut Prefixes:
Most of these should be familiar to those who have played HI1 and HI2.
/g global
/n (or /a) near/area chat
/w whisper (sent only very close-by on area chat)
/$ ads
/b buddy
/c clubby
/p adventure party
/? (or /h) help chat
/name private chat

Chat Commands;
Some features are command accessible only they get prefixed by %, for example:
%ADDBUDDY [playername]

To see list of commands available to you, type just: %.

Holding SHIFT while clicking smilies will let you select more than one at a time before closing.

Typing %FULLMUTE [playername] will completely block someone from sending you PMs and you'll no longer see anything they say in any chat.

Typing %UNMUTE [playername] will allow you to see their chats again.

3.B.17 Keyboard Shortcuts:
Tired of needing to pull up various tables and want a list of all the keyboard shortcuts in game? We've got you covered, as long as you haven't remapped your keys. These instructions are for a standard English keyboard.

%help or just % in the chat bar pulls up all chat commands.
F mounts or dismounts your horse. If you're in a horse profile, it zooms in on the horse. You can use this to further inspect eyes and markings.
H pulls up your horses page.
F9 turns every player and owned horse on-screen into a bubble (for lag reduction.)
F5 causes the Distance Timer to pop up on your screen.
F4 pulls up the last wild you caught.
F3 brings up the debugging panel.
C, when held, makes your avatar crouch.
Z pulls up your Avatar Emote menu. Additionally, just typing the emote's action into chat will usually activate an emote!
SHIFT+Z pulls up the horse trick menu, if you have a horse out.
I pulls up your in-game inventory.
E collects the item you're looking at or any near you.
P enables you to pet ALL the horses.
Shift+H pulls up your customised horse rankings.
F2 takes a screenshot and saves it to your computer.
SHIFT+F2 takes a screenshot and saves it to your account for admins.
SHIFT+M pulls up the location of your map marker- very useful for finding the nearest club to an anomaly!
SHIFT+F places your last ridden/last placed horse.
X puts away your last activated tool; if hit while mounted, it puts your horse away.

Equipment Shortcuts - These only work if you currently have the equipment unlocked!

J pulls up your sailboat.
-, when you have a small enough horse placed, pulls out your pony cart.
/ activates Horsie Sense, if you have it unlocked.
\ equips your jousting lance.
] equips your hang-glider.
[ pulls up the BBB.
` equips your ice skates.
= equips your skis.
0 equips your diving bell; must be underwater.
5 summons your seahorse; must have the diving bell equipped.
1 brings out your art kit.
2 equips your Magic String, but only in caves.
7 summons your Auction Pigeon.
4 lets you read your newspaper.
6 equips your grappling bow in caves.
B equips a bucket.
G equips your brush.
K equips your kayak.
V equips your spyglass.
N equips your camera.
M pulls up your map.
L equips your lasso.
O equips your hot air balloon.
T equips your torch.
U equips the lead rope to a horse wearing a halter.
Y equips your lantern.

3.B.18 Notifications:
Right clicking (or SHIFT+click) on current channel will tweak whether a notification is played when a new chat arrives for that channel. A little note icon is shown when notifications are active.

C) Club

3.C.1 How to Start a Club:
Any Infinite Wilds player may start a club by purchasing a club. These are expensive Mobia purchases, Most players will be members of clubs rather than buying their own. To buy a club:

1) Click Shop at top game bar.

2) Scroll down to Club.

3) Click on Buy, if you have enough Mobia! Once you've bought a club, it's yours. Be careful with each step of this process as these are expensive and are not refundable. Note: There are no "club tokens" which can be bought and sold. It's the club itself you're buying.

4) Travel to a place where you'd like to set up the club. Clubs cannot be located closer than 20km from each other (not to worry, there's plenty of room to spread out!). NOTA BENE: Once you place a club, it's on that spot PERMANENTLY! So choose wisely. Click Club to purchase parcel once certain it's a great place. This means that clubs cannot be moved, no matter how nicely you ask. Be 100% certain that it's the location you want your club to be in.

Once you have placed a club, no one may purchase any parcel that directly abuts it. These are reserved as club open space. And only your Gold+ level club members may buy parcels within 1.5km of the club. Your Club Village will become located in its own region after purchase- so it'll say Region: Clubname Village!

5) Set up your clubhouse first. You won't be able to build anything else until the clubhouse is in place. Every story of your clubhouse allows for five club members.

6) Add Buildings to your club! Club owners and managers are entirely free to build what buildings they want, in whatever layout they want. Club owners may also pick the club colors for buildings. You may ask you members to help support their club by investing materials for expansion.

Nota Bene:

A club may not be deleted. Clubs are permanent landmarks and often have established communities within and around them and, once purchased, may not be removed, relocated, or any other fancy way you can think of for the club to no longer exist ;). If a club owner no longer wishes to own their club, they may sell or give it away to another player. Please see "Selling Your Club" for more information.

3.C.2 Club Styles:
We currently have two Club Building styles for you to choose from. In order for you to change styles, you must tear down the original building and rebuild it from the ground up!

Adobe buildings are made from sturdy mud and wood. While they can be considered plain, they're very classical.
Old Western buildings are mostly wooden structures, many with porches that can be walked on as you stroll down the shopping areas.
Victorian club styles are large, elegant buildings with a gorgeous and imposing façade that just screams "high class. " These are very expensive to build, but totally worth it.
Castle club styles are foreboding buildings made of stone that command your respect. Our most expensive club style yet, these let you live out your fantasy of a Medieval court.

3.C.3 Clubhouses:
The Clubhouse is the center of all activities in any club. The number of players who may be join a club is limited by the number of stories in the clubhouse. Each story adds room for five members and unlocks five building and decoration permits for the club. Story "levels" are permanently unlocked, so it's less painful if you need to move your clubhouse or change its style. Each level costs much more than the previous one.
Level Costs:
Level 1: 1,000
Level 2: 10,000
Level 3: 40,000
Level 4: 160,000
Level 5: 640,000
Level 6: 2,600,000
Level 7: 11,000,000
Level 8: 41,000,000
Level 9: 170,000,000
Level 10: 660,000,000

The Clubhouse is also the place to go if you wish to register a ranch prefix for use on your horses. You can also make horse treats at a clubhouse, and can craft cooking recipes at one if you're a member. Nonmembers cannot use the clubhouse's kitchen... no strangers in the ktichens!

"Destroying" a clubhouse will only remove one story at a time (in case you accidentally managed to wreck a whole floor :P ) and will only cost you the building materials to build the level back up (as these are permanently unlocked, like parcel slots.)

3.C.4 Club Buildings and Services:
There are many buildings and services available for club management to construct. The club requires you to level it up before you can acquire more buildings This encourages players to visit other clubs to find all the services you may need, and gives a long term goal for bigger, active clubs.

Depending upon the club and what its members decide to build, clubs may contain a number of other buildings devoted to various areas of expertise:

Auction House. List, and bid on, horses here.

Adventure Table. Find quests to do and enlist the services of the local Cartographer (opens up a 5km square block on your map, only in the area of the club.)

Bleachers. Many clubs use these as places to sit and watch horse shows, or to just sit and hang out.

Clock Tower. Tells the time, and has a bell that can be rung for whatever bell-ringing purposes you happen to have.

Competition Board. List and enter course competitions and horse shows here.

Dye Station. Here is the place to make dyes; more detail is included in the Dyes section.

Exporter. The Exporter has many different requests from clients in faraway lands, paying well for things you might have.

Fountain. Toss a wishing coin for luck (and some gold dust, a random collectible item, or possibly some Essences!). You can fill your buckets here and also toss in some essence for money or 10% Energy, Focus, or Travel (all random when you pick this option!

Horse Expert. Have an unidentified horse, or one whose genetics you're curious about? The Horse Expert can, for a gold-dust fee, tell you what breed your horse is, offer an opinion on its conformation, and give you a readout of its color genetics.

Horse Trader. Buys horses for their clients; you can sell horses here.

Horse Trainers. Each trainer is a specialist in one of the five base stats.

Importer. A place to buy things that don't grow wild, like certain tack crafting supplies and garden seeds.

Library. Read up on your favorite breeds--or read up on a breed you might not yet have heard of! The library also has Tomes of Ancient Knowledge; choose two to study to advance various your abilities over time. The Library is also where you can register a Notable Horse, which you can then trace as an Ancestor through the generations!

Ostler Building. An Ostler is one who cares for horses and mules, such as grooming and general care.

Post Office. Need a bit of pocket money? The Post Office will pay you to deliver mail to a ranch or another club, in a timely fashion. Here is where you can view the different certifications and their requirements, as well as being able to register your horse for certifications. The post office is also, predictably, where you can send and receive mail.

Store Slabs. Club members may buy a store slab and set up stores of their own.

Shopping Board. This will allow you to see what items are for sale across the entire world, so there's no need to go from club to club looking for things, horses, or studs!

Show Platform. This is where Horse Shows are held and judged. You'll be able to see all horses competing in a show here!

Veterinarian. Horses sustain minor injuries every now and then. Veterinarians can heal them, and also provide gelding services.

Wagon. Clubs may build wagons which go to specific destinations for a fee.

3.C.5 Club Decorations:
There are many different kinds of decor in which for a club owner to decorate their village with and make it more unique and inviting. Each one of these takes up a decor slot, rather than a building permit, meaning that for every club level you unlock, club owners may add an additional five decorations to their club town.

What's your style? Cosy park feeling, with lots of benches to sit around surrounded by topiary? Or would you prefer an imposing row of columns interspersed by trees? The possibilities are endless.

Lamp Lamps are great for setting up lighting around your club- and setting the color is easy, too! Owners and managers can click "Manage" on the lamp post to change its color.
Garbage Can You don't really think you're going to be allowed to just discard your items wherever you're standing, do you? Throw your unwanted, unsaleable goods away.
Directional Sign This handy sign can tell people how far away a point of interest is, and in which direction it's in.
Information Board Have something important to say about your club? This is the place to do it!


In addition to the bleacher seating that takes up a building permit, we offer you less... sportsy places to sit and rest.

Picnic This delightful picnic bench will seat several people as you take a rest from the strenuous task of adventuring and caring for your horses.

Park This bench is pefect for those who wish to sit down and feed the ponies that pass by them. It's also good for people who simply wish to scowl and shake their cane at passersby.

Slab This utilitarian stone slab is not meant for comfort. It is a place to sit and rest your feet and perhaps realise your saddle might be a better place to sit.

Stone Columns

Obelisk Adventurers have long admired these strange objects, unsure of where they came from or what they mean. For a price, you can build one of these for your club to admire and inspire, though slightly smaller.

Roman Inspired by an ancient civilization from a very far away land, these elegant columns will bring a sense of stateliness and an imposing image of might and history to any club.


Each of these are a work of art built upon a plinth (a fancy word for a 'statue base.')

Twist We're not actually entirely certain what this is, but this 3D statue provides a neat form of visual art to your club. Its twists and dual toned coloring will enchant and amuse all who take a gander at it.

Cube The cube is artfully balanced on one corner, looking as though it's been frozen just before falling completely flat. While it looks like a light breeze could tip this over, we assure you it's probably almost completely safe!

Sphere This sphere is perfectly round and shockingly pretty. It is not very good as a globe, however, as the world of Horse Isle is flat.

Rearing Horse No equestrian village would be complete without something as iconic as a statue of a horse in its most famous pose- the rear. Much like a Lipizzan in a Levade, this elegant horse is certain to be the talk of the village once installed!

Horse This trotting horse statue is elegant and delicate, perfectly balanced and catching the subject in the height of its trot.

Infinite Infinitely entertaining to look at, this statue is a magnificent reminder of all the lands you've yet to explore!

Topiary and Shrubs

The art of turning shrubbery and trees into fun shapes is as ancient as the Roman and Chinese empires. They are typically created using short-needled evergreen bushes that require regular maintnence... thankfully, they magically keep their shape for you here!

Dolphin This graceful, playful creature erupts from the ground to leap into the air as though breaching the water.

Dog This delightful little pup sits, one ear tilted downward, as though waiting for a treat. Perhaps you can pet him and tell him he's a good boy?

Spheres The image of three spheres stacked one on top of the other is, perhaps, the most iconic topiary sculpture.

Swan This evergreen swan will keep a careful watch over your club. It is both elegant and peaceful, watching everything with its lofty gaze.

Cat This kitty will keep a constant lookout for strings, intruders, and crinkling plastic sounds in your club.

Pegasus A legend has come to life in your club in the shape of topiary, ready to take you to new wilds... or at last look pretty.

Spiral A shrub has been trained to go into a beautiful spiral pattern, really making a statement for your club.

Squarish Ever thought about making a privacy hedge? A few dozen of these in a row will DEFINITELY keep your privacy secure... or encourage a few people to just jump over it.

Round A beautifully trimmed shrub will certainly add a touch of class to your club village.

Tapered Indeed, this hedge looks as though it has been cut into a very fine point. It is, of course, perfectly safe to climb on if you're so inclined!

Flame Even fire can be tamed if you turn it into a plant, or at least a very shapely hedge.


Tree A tree planter is very much as it sounds; you may plant a tree in one and have a piece of the Wilds within your very village! You may plant anything but one of the Giants in one of these (so no sequoia or redwoods :P)

Plant If you feel you're missing greenery in your village, a few of these might really liven the place up.

3.C.6 How to Join a Club:
If you'd like to join a club, you'll need an invitation from the club owner, manager or leader. They are listed in the club's profile. Seek them out and ask, politely, for an invitation. They may have questions for you, to make sure you'll be a good fit for the club. Don't take these personally. Clubs are expensive, and can be demanding to run, so it's good for you and the club to make sure you're going to be a good fit.

You can only be a member of one club at a time.

If you're accepted into a club, people will be able to see who invited you and how long you've been a member of the club.

How to Invite a Player

If you're a club owner or manager and would like to invite a new member into your club, both of you need to be in the same place!
Click on the player and click "Invites and Chat." From there, hit Invite Club. Once they accept, they're in!

3.C.7 Club Member Levels:
Each level of club membership can do everything the previous level could as well as additional abilities.

These are the newest members. Their club benefits are limited until the club leadership has deemed them ready for full membership. This is basically a 'test' to see if you're a good fit for the club, and while you can't do much at this point, you may remove yourself from membership if you desire. Club Chat works with all clubbies.

Member is broken up into three levels:
Copper: May own stores.
Silver: May run courses and horse shows (though only Leaders and up will be auto invited as judges for shows.)
Gold: May purchase ranch parcels in the Club Region and build obstacles within the region.

Leaders can invite members into club, and promote them to full members from initiates. Can also set up Events utilizing any of the club member's courses.

Managers are appointed by the Owner, and can, in turn, promote members to leaders. Managers can also build club structures, and pretty much do everything except replace owner. Managers are allowed to pick up or gather the resources around the club in the 128m buffer zone!

Co-Owner: This very special rank is the only one that can promote to their own level. Should a club owner quit the game, these members are the ones that become the new owners of the club to keep the club thriving (and to prevent it from becoming a ghost town!)

The Owner paid for the club, it's theirs. The Owner is the monarch of the club; they are under no obligation whatsoever to appoint managers, leaders, or co-owners. They can add and remove any member at any level, at their discretion. Owners and Co-Owners may purchase parcels adjacent (right next to) to the club.



To promote a club member to a new rank, go to your Club tab, click Members and then Manage the player you'd like to promote.

You can also demote or kick a player from this menu.

3.C.8 Investing In Your Club:
Clubs need donations in order to grow and thrive. Gold Dust, of course, is needed for almost everything. Wood and stones are required for building, so it helps to donate a bit. Because of this, it is in every member's interest to make regular donations of gold, wood and stone so that your club town can grow and offer a wider variety of services. Most buildings only require one building permit- some require a factor of two (meaning they'll double in price each time you put up a new one!) to have clubs focus on putting up other buildings before putting up a few dozen of the same building. ;) Every club has five build permits per club story.

Donate to your club by clicking Club (top menu), and then clicking Invest in Your Club. You can see how much of each resource the club has on this page and how much you've donated.

Club owners and those that are the same rank as you or higher can see how much you've donated to the club.

3.C.9 Getting Your Own Store:
Copper members of clubs (not initiates) may build stores on store slabs in their clubs for some amount of gold dust.

If you'd like to set up a store, see if the club Owner or Manager has set out any slabs on which you can build it. If they do, you may purchase that slab and build on it. If not, you could ask for a slab to be built. Contributing building materials (wood and stone) would probably really help you out in this situation.

3.C.10 Managing Your Store:
Once you have a store, you can decide what you want your store to carry and what price you wish to sell it for. Stores may sell items, horses or mobia. Additionally, stores should keep some money on hand so that they can purchase items from other players.

To stock your store, click on the store and click the Manage button. You will originally have four slots in which to put items you wish to sell. Under the list of things you're selling (if any) you'll see Add inventory, followed by buttons for Item, Mobia, and Horse.

When you click one of these buttons, you'll see places to type in your Selling Price, Buying Price and Inventory. Putting a 0 in either the selling or buying prices of an item means you're not selling or buying. Note: You only need to have one of something to start buying and selling it in your store for everything but Mobia (you don't need to have any Mobia on hand to begin buying it in your store!) To repeat ourselves: if you'd like to BUY items, set your selling price to 0 and your buying price to what you're willing to pay for the item. This way, your shop will hold all the items sold to you without other players being able to buy it before you can collect it!

When you buy it, your store will have slots for a few items. Not happy with that? You can keep buying slots with Gold Dust, but as always, the more you buy, the more Gold Dust the next slot will cost. Fear not, though! These slot unlocks will follow you wherever your store may be- so you might change clubs a dozen times, but your store slot unlocks will remain the same as they're tied to your account. If you happen to have the Merchant specialization unlocked, you will automagically double your store slots with each unlock. Unlearning it won't take away those extra slots, but you will need to purchase more slots to make up the difference.

Every club charges 5% for taxes. This is a price set by the game itself- those taxes immediately go into the club coffers.

3.C.11 Changing Your Club Name:
A club name change is allowed once every 365 days. This doesn't mean you have to own the club for a year, just that you can't change the name all the time :)

- The new club name must be appropriate and within the rules guidelines.
- You'll be keeping this name for a year- be sure you really like it!
- You must be the owner of the club.

File a Support Ticket on the main website through the Help Center with the name of the new club, and include that you accept that it has to remain that name for 365 days. We'll change it and your club will have a new name!

It may take a server update to get the name changed on all in-game panels. This isn't always the case, as we've worked hard to have it take about ten seconds, but we do ask that you wait a bit after the name change before filing a secondary ticket :)

3.C.12 Epic Medallions:
Epic Medallions are an extremely valuable resource in that they allow a club to build MORE than their current level would otherwise allow!

Medallion Levels will each unlock one additional building permit and one deco permit. While most clubs will unlock the first ten levels through a group effort and lots of hard work, the Medallion Building Permit Committee has decided they'll allow building beyond that, should a club be filled with lots of intrepid adventurers.

Each Medallion Level is twice the cost of the previous level- the first level is a simple 10 medallions, the next 20, then 40, then 80... Many of the top Medallion Levels will take a lot of effort to get to!

How do I add them to my club?

Epic Medallions are a club investment, so just invest your Medallions through your Club Investment page.

For Owners and Managers, they may increase the Medallion Level on the Club Build page.

Does this mess with normal build permits?

Not at all! The Medallion Levels are in addition to your Member Level. So a Level 5 club will have 5 permits per allowed club member (35) PLUS Medallion Level permits.

3.C.13 Selling Your Club:
We do have a process in place, should you no longer wish to own your club. We understand that club ownership isn't meant for everyone, so we've come up with a (hopefully!) streamlined process for you to follow to transfer ownership to another user.

To sell/buy a club to another player:
~ The seller of the club must set the buyer as co-owner.
~ The seller will Not get any mobia back that was invested (the 8,000 used to purchase the Club,) so they need to be ok with this.
~ The Buyer must be a co-owner and be ok with having the club for at least 1 year (365 days.)
~ Both players must contact us stating exactly what the terms of the purchase are (What is to be traded to whom for the club purchase.)
~ Both players must agree on the same content and be ok with that deal as it will be final.
~ No trading is to take place however until we in support give the ok. We want to be very certain that both parties agree to all terms prior to ANY form of trading.
~ When all parties agree, then we will give the "Go" for trading.
~ Once the above has been worked out and done, including the trading and everything is ok between both players, we here in support will change the ownership of the club.
~ Please Note: A club's location is permanent. A buyer may not relocate the club as they are buying the entire club and its region- since clubs are towns, you cannot relocate a town.


Once a club is sold and its members potentially migrate, all resources the former owner, managers, and others that were put in will be reduced by 40%.
This can potentially put a club into the negatives for resources. So please keep this in mind when purchasing a club from a player!

Serial Sellers

To prevent people from buying and selling new clubs ad nauseum (over and over again,) we do have a limit on how often someone can sell a club they created. A newly created club must be owned by its creator for a minimum of six months before it can be sold.

D) Crafting

3.D.1 Overview:
We have tried to keep crafting in HI3 as simple as possible. The only things you need are the buildings required to craft and the materials you need for the items you wish to create! (So no running around trying to remember which isle has which crafting workshop.)

We hope to make this a fun, creative way to feel more immersed in the world without making it feel too overwhelming. While there's a bit of a learning curve, you'll soon be crafting the best of the best!

It's good to remember that everything you craft will use up a bit of your Focus bar, rather than your Energy bar.

Ok... but what IS that?
Because icons aren't exactly descriptive of what everything is, we've included a handy dandy way to find out what item is what when you're in the crafting menu. Just click on the icon!

How many items can I craft at a time?
You may craft one or ten of any one item at a time, as long as you have the resources to craft it.

Do I need to unlock crafting recipes?
Nope! While in the first two games you either needed to go to certain isles to craft or find various recipes around the world, your crafting buildings all receive new recipes as they're added to the game, and buildings come fully equipped with patterns already in-game.

3.D.2 Furnaces:
Your Furnace is essential for basic crafting. You'll need it to create bottles, refine different ores, and can convert tar to oil for your lantern.
You will need to fire up your furnace using coal from your inventory. Firing up your furnace will use Energy, rather than Focus.

3.D.3 Workshops:
Your Workshop is where the real fun stuff happens--tack crafting! This is also where you'll craft paper, books, horseshoes, and horse blankets. (You can't see the inside, but trust us- it's bigger on the inside.) For the most part, you'll be using wood, iron, and leather here... but there's still LOTS of fun stuff to craft that don't include those!

This is also where you'll craft lantern oil for your Lantern.
Leather is collectible from Giant Mushrooms!

3.D.4 Textiles:
The Textiles building is required for anything involving, well, T\textiles! (And you can see inside this one!) Unlike in HI2, where you can craft your cloth in the middle of the road, every bit of cloth you craft in HI3 must be crafted at your Textile Workshop, in the peace and quiet of your own ranch. This is where you can use the cotton, flax, silk and jute you collect from the world, and the wool you import from faraway lands.

Your clothing, hats, and shoes will be crafted here, as well. Even though you start out with basic clothes, sometimes you just want to look nice! All clothing you craft here will be white to begin with. You can use dyes you've crafter to color it.

3.D.5 Tree Taps:
Tree taps, crafted at your workshop, allow you to tap certain trees for resources. It's generally a good idea to have several tree taps for a few reasons! Because tree taps are a little more complicated than the other items we have for you to create and use, we've devoted a section to them here.

You have to wait 24 hours between tapping the tree and collecting the sap (it moves really, really slowly!) but at 24 hours, you'll have a full bucket. You'll have 72 hours to collect from your bucket- HOWEVER!

If you forget to collect within the 72 hours, your bucket will over fill and will break right off the tree, you'll lose all the sap, and anyone else will be able to claim your tap. Taps will vanish entirely after a month of being neglected.

However, if you're tapping trees on your own property, you'll only find that you lost the sap, not your tree tap. Tree taps on your own properties will ALWAYS be protected!

What trees can be tapped?

Maple Trees You can tap maple trees in the Fall Forest for maple syrup (Horse Isle magic makes it come out of the tree as Maple Syrup!)

Rubber Trees Rubber trees in the Jungle can be tapped for Rubber Tree Sap, which is VERY useful for crafting.

Dragon Trees Dragon trees in Dragon Grass may be tapped for Dragonblood for dyeing.

Nota Bene: You may find that your tapped trees suddenly find themselves on someone else's parcel (meaning they bought the parcel with your tree taps on it.) If this happens, you lose your claim on the trees but your taps should return to your inventory.

It takes 24 hours for a tree tap to fully fill a bucket, and you've got three days to collect it before someone can come claim your tap (about 72 hours.)

3.D.6 Fun and Games:
It's not all tack and clothes when it comes to creating things to make the game more fun and more tailored to your playing style! Keep an eye on this section as we're constantly adding new things to craft and do.

Throwables are items you can access through your Inventory (helpfully, in the Throwables section.) Having a lot of ammo will give you a lot of playing power.

With great crafting, comes great responsibility... and the ability to lob things at your buddies and party members. If you're the type of person that has no problem spending twenty minutes crafting a pie that has the sole purpose of being nearly thrown at a buddy or party member, this section is for you.

Lobbing things is actually pretty difficult and you're going to miss a lot, though knowing our players, you'll only take this as a challenge. Fear not, any food that's hit the ground will magically vanish into wild horse's bellies. We've done tests.

Apple Pie smells good and is super gooey, but what's even better is making your friend eat it. From a distance. (Throwing enough pies at buddies and party members ((and having the pie actually land on them)) will earn you the Pie Plaster award!) You can craft these at any clubhouse or at your ranch house.

Marshmallows are a sticky favorite! Like the Apple Pie, these can be crafted at any clubhouse or your ranch house.

Snowballs are either the best thing ever or the worst thing ever when you get that little bit that slides down the back of your shirt on a hot day. Your inventory is magically protected to hold these snowballs after you craft them, so you can lob them at your buddies in any biome. You can craft these up in your Crafting menu in your toolbar when you're anywhere in the world!

Confetti Balls are right up there with snowballs in terms of delighting and or annoying your friends. Or strangers. These delightful little things create an explosion of fun and party time for everyone to see!


Yay, explosives! You may craft Fireworks at your ranch (from... ew, guano and sulfur??) in many different colors. You can't set them off in caves (because that's flat out dangerous) but you can... pretty much anywhere else. Even while shapeshifted during a time where Animalistic Magic is enabled (try not to singe your fur.)

Seating and Fires

Keep in mind that the things here are TEMPORARY creations, things meant to be enjoyed for only a little bit before they vanish into the Wilds. You can put them on your ranch, but don't expect them to stay there! :)

Camp fires provide a warm, welcoming glow that lasts the night. You can place these virtually anywhere. The horses don't seem to like the fire pits much!

Log benches seat two people around a campfire (or just for entertainment purposes during a dance-off.)

Log seats are simple seating made from a few logs really squished together that only seat one person.

E) Dyes

3.E.1 Dye Ingredients:
Dye Ingredients can be found all over the world, and each biome has one or two plants you can use for making dyes. You can also grow dye ingredients in gardens on your ranch (and, of course, buy ingredients from stores and other players). You can dye your clothing, and your tack, with these dyes.

As a general rule, flowers make the brightest colors. Berries and fruit make strong colors but usually darken also. Some items like acorns can be used as a general darkening agent for any color. Soda ash (from kelp burnt in a furnace) will bleach things for you.

You can mix ingredients in any way you want, just keep in mind that the more things you add, the further toward black you eventually go. There is no limit to the amount of things you can have in your dye recipes. Dye colors are additive.

Consult the town libraries to see what ingredients are available.

3.E.2 Making Dyes:
In order to actually dyes, you need firstly to have all the necessary ingredients, and secondly to go to a Dye Station in one of the towns. Click on the building and choose USE.

If you have not created any dye recipes before, the Dye Station window will show two buttons: Experiment and Bleach.

You can Bleach any dye-able object with soda ash. This restores dye-able parts to white, or pre-colored parts (like the brown areas of some tack items) to their original color.

If you click Experiment, you will be shown a list of all the dyestuffs you have on hand, and how many of each you're carrying. You can add them in quantities of 1, 3 or 9 at a time. Keep experimenting! A lot of ingredients don't change color a whole lot just because you put an enormous amount of them in. This is particularly true of flowers. Dye creation requires bottles!

Once you have decided what you want in your recipe, click Save. You'll be taken back to the Dye Station window, and buttons saying Craft and Look will appear next to your new recipe. Clicking Craft will make a jar of dye, showing the color produced. If you like the result, you can keep the recipe; if you don't, click Look and there will be an option to throw the recipe away.

3.E.3 Applying Dyes:
You don't need to be at a dye station in order to dye an item (although you do need to be there in order to bleach one). Click Inventory–>Dye Colors to access all your colors and the Dye Colors Inventory list.

This list will show you what colors you have, and how many you have of each. One jar of dye will dye one item the color shown, provided the item is new (white) or has been bleached. Dying an item which has already been dyed generally results in a darker, more greyish color. Click Use to dye an item; you will be shown the Select an Item to Dye window.

All your dye-able items will appear in this window; click Dye next to the one you'd like to dye with the color you've previously chosen.

You may re-dye an item with the same color to make it a darker shade, but do that too often, and your item will end up black. Usually, you can get away with only one additional dyeing before you get to some shade of black.

Remember, once you dye an item, your now empty bottle will return to your inventory!

3.E.4 Color Names:
This dyeing system is capable of naming over 17,000 individual colors! The color name the game gives each one is chosen by adding whatever matches the shade most nearly; if it is a bit off, we automatically add an -ish suffix. Two different recipes may produce the same named color but actually be minutely different. In this case they will not "stack".

Note that the name of the color and the name of the recipe do not have to match. You may name recipes whatever you like, but the name of the color shade itself is the same for everybody.

F) Equipment

3.F.1 General Notes:
Unlocking your equipment costs Essence, so remember to save up! Additionally, some require that you have had, at any time in the past, collected a certain number of essences from a specific biome. The Essence grid shows how many essences you've collected, in total, from each, so you'll know when you've collected enough to buy whatever it is you'd like. Check Equipment to see the cost of anything you might want to unlock. (Note: Since equipment is unlocked, not bought, you cannot buy or sell it.)

Some of your equipment will have a keyboard shortcut, and these are listed with the equipment after you buy it. Type that shortcut again to put the item away; type X to put any item away.

As a general note, if a piece of equipment is listed here but NOT available in the game, it means it's planned. We do not have specific dates for you, but this should give everyone something to look forward to!


Some equipment can be personalized to have different colors! To select equipment colors, just go into Myself - > Change My Appearance. You'll be able to select a primary and secondary color in the area just below your shoes.

3.F.2 Auction Pigeon:
For 1000 essence (250 Stone Forest essence collected), you may unlock your very own Auction Pigeon. Once unlocked, you may view and participate in auctions (as long as they're not Club Only listings.) This handy little bird will send your payment and bids to the Auction Masters, as well as give you magical, real-time auction updates. (We're not sure how it works, it just does.)

Its shortcut is &. Hit & or X again to tell your pigeon to go back to its coop!

3.F.3 BBB:
You may unlock the Big Book of Breeds so you're not required to look at a library every time you're in need of breed information. This costs 1,000 Essence with 250 Taiga Essence collected.

Note that this just lets you look at breeds, it does not give you full access to the Library (as you'd have a hard time carting a full building around.

3.F.4 Brush:
It's a rare horse indeed who doesn't appreciate a good brushing! Brushing improves both a horse's looks and its mood. Other people that have brushes are also able to groom your horses. The shortcut for the brush is G on your keyboard. To put it away, press G again or X.

A player with a membership gets an added benefit to the brush- they're able to groom their horses twice as fast!

3.F.5 Bucket:
Buckets are used for watering both horses and garden crops. Unlike other equipment, you can own as many buckets as you like; but like everything else in the game, the more you buy, the more they cost.

The shortcut for using buckets is B on your keyboard. Once you're done watering your horsies, press B again or X to put it away.

3.F.6 Diving Bell:
For 2500 Essence (and 250 savanna essence collected,) you can unlock the Diving Bell for underwater exploration!

Please keep in mind that the oceans are very large and the diving bell is heavy... so you're going to move about the oceans very slowly. You can't use the torch for underwater exploration (fire doesn't like getting wet,) but the lantern is good for this!

Press 0 to use the diving bell. Press 0 again or X to put it away and float back up!

3.F.7 Grappling Bow:
The Grappling Bow is a rather magnificent tool that enables the user to channel their inner cave-dwelling adventurer/archaeologist by letting them zip from point to point in a cave using a rope and grapple system.

Left mouse click shoots the grappling hook into the terrain, and holding it will let you ascend. Crouching (C key) will let you descend, while jumping (spacebar) will release the hook.

^ will equip your grappling bow, and hitting ^ again or X will put it away. Using it 25 times without hitting the ground once will unlock the Tarzan award!

3.F.8 Gold Panning:
In Horse Isle, you can often find money in the strangest places. One not so strange place is in rivers- with the Gold Pan tool, you can pan for gold like it's 1849.

3.F.9 Hang Glider:
A great way to get around the Wilds in a hurry for the magnificent price of 10,000 essence, and 1,000 Fjords essence collected!
You'll need to find a high point in the world to launch from- obviously you can't easily hang glide in the Salt Flats. While a little complicated, picking this up will soon be a breeze.

Your hang glider will automatically pitch down (go into a downward dive) so it doesn't stall. The W key will make you pitch forward faster, and if you'd like to pitch backward (go up) you'll need to use the S key. Steer with your mouse or arrow keys and you'll be flying about in no time! Sort of.

There's an award for those that get lots of 'hang time,' so go up, up, and away!

3.F.10 Horse Cart:
Some horses just look the best when they're driving. For those horses, we have the Horse Cart. At 2,500 Essence (with 1,000 FallForest Essence collected), this cart is sure to turn heads without totally breaking your Essence bank. This cart is slightly slower than the Chariot, as it's bulkier.

For centuries, Carts were the primary mode of transport over most distances for most people, as far back as 5000 BCE. It wasn't until much later (around 400 BCE, first in China) that they switched from a rope pull to a trace harness, then later a a collar harness, that you see in Horse Isle today. This cart has room for up to three passengers! Note that your passengers do have weight, so they will slow your cart down a bit. Three passengers will slow you down even more!

Ponies 14.2hh and under cannot pull the horse cart, but everything taller than that can pull this cart!

Pressing - will attempt to use your last used cart. Hitting it again, F, or X will put the cart away.

3.F.11 Horse Chariot:
Ever long to race as fast as you can, with your strong and nimble horses? This magnificent Chariot is very expensive but very worth it. At 10,000 essence (with 2,000 desert essence collected,) it is the most expensive essence unlock to say "My horse looks so cool." The chariot is slightly lighter than the horse cart, making it able to be pulled faster.

Historically, chariots were used in hippodromes (horse race tracks) by both Greek and Roman cultures. Horse Isle has done as the Romans did and appropriated it for our own use! This Chariot, however, can hold you and two buddies. Note that if you have passengers, your chariot will be bogged down slightly by their weight!

Horses over 14.3hh may pull this chariot. Ponies just can't reach the braces!

Pressing - will attempt to use your last used cart. Hitting it again, F, or X will put the cart away.

3.F.12 Horsie Sense:
Phenomenally expensive, but SO worth it! When using Horsie Sense, you see yellow sparkles in the direction a wild horse can be found, if there is one nearby. If there's no sparkle when you start using it, there are no nearby horses. Walk around a bit, you'll find some soon! Horsie Sense sparkles towards the nearest wild horse.

Horsie Sense has different ranges at different gameplay qualities, which can be changed in Settings (the wrench at the top of your game.) The maximum range is 500m at Awesome, and Lowest will only find horses at 100m away (due to the horses not being 'drawn in' until they're within range.)

Awesome- 500m
High- 400m
Normal- 300m
Low- 200m
Lowest- 100m

Hitting / will turn on your Horsie Sense, which stays on until you turn it off with / again or by hitting X.

3.F.13 Hot Air Balloon:
For the phenomenally expensive cost of just 25,000 Essence (and 1,000 Decay Essence collected) you can unlock the Hot Air Balloon. This requires Hot Air Balloon Fuel to use (corn, coal, and tar, refined at a furnace) and takes about five seconds of oil burning to heat up the inside of the balloon. Use O to bring it out; hitting it again or X will put it away.

The Hot Air Balloon travels with the current direction of the wind at just under wind speed; the only way you can control it is by pressing the Up and Down buttons.

3.F.14 Ice Skates:
Tired of just walking on the ice or dealing with horses that panic every time the ice cracks a little? The Ice Skates, at the cost of 2,000 Essence (with 250 Ice Scape Essence collected) will allow you to travel over the frozen oceans of Horse Isle. Press ` to equip them; hit it or X again to put them away.

Press A and D to move your feet (or use the arrows) and you'll be skating in no time! Tap W to speed up- if you time it properly, you can get a nice speed going. Hold the W key for a slower, more leisurely skating speed- using this replaces the A and D keys. Press C for a nice Swizzle move and S to hit the breaks!

3.F.15 Jousting Lance:
This exceptionally fun tool is used for one purpose: Unhorsing your friends. Its cost to unlock is 1,000 Essence with 250 Bamboo Essence collected.

You can only unhorse someone that also has the lance out. It will wibble and wobble (it's heavy!) but to unhorse someone, you'll need to hold your left mouse button and take aim!

If you're in a ridealong and you and your passenger are the 'losers' in a joust, both players will be unhorsed!

Use \ to ready your lance. Press \ again or X to put it away.


A taller horse is harder to be unhorsed from.
A faster horse will have more 'oomph' in a deadhead charge.
An agile horse will be able to turn faster to meet an opponent again, should you fail to unhorse them the first time!

3.F.16 Kayak:
The Kayak is one of the most useful tools you can own, though it is rather expensive, comparatively. One of the first things you're likely to notice about the Wilds is that a good deal of it is water; rivers, lakes, shallow seas and deep oceans. If you really want to, you can navigate these by swimming (but you've probably got better things to do with your time.) But the Kayak is a great deal faster, once you master how to use the paddle. It's definitely a very worthwhile investment!

To use the kayak, alternate button presses on A and D or the left and right arrow keys. If you're not really in a hurry to get anywhere, you can press W or the Up arrow to travel forward (albeit a little slower than if you were paddling.)

Once you wish to set out on an ocean adventure (or really just don't feel like walking around a lake or through a stream,) the keyboard shortcut for your kayak is K. Press K again or X to put your kayak away when you're done with it. Your Kayak will also immediately go back to your inventory if you quick travel to an area that isn't water.

3.F.17 Lantern:
Your Lantern is a more focused light than your Torch, and instead of burning down your wood supplies, it uses Lantern Oil that you craft in your workshop on your ranch. The light from this VERY helpful bit of equipment pierces the darkness further than your Torch, at the cost of a narrower 'path' that the light follows. This light gets SUPER spooky in the foggier areas! This equipment cannot be used on your horse.

The shortcut for your Lantern is the Y on your keyboard. To put it away, press Y again or X.

3.F.18 Lasso:
A lasso (or lariat, or la riata, or just rope) is used to capture wild horses. Unlock this item in your Equipment tab for 10 essence.
Roping horses is a tricky business in the Wilds, and can take a good deal of practice to master. It's all a matter of timing! Keep trying, you'll get it!

The more you swing your rope, the father it will go. Three swings is usually enough to catch a horse, if it's as close to you as you as it will let you get. If in doubt, overthrowing rarely hurts.

Use your lasso by pressing L, and put it away by pressing L again, or press X.

Additionally, your lasso acts as a rescue rope for those stuck in deep pits, tar pits, or to mess with people in your adventure party by lassoing them off their horse :) If you lasso someone (or get lasso'd) the player will be dragged to you. If you're lassoed on horseback, you'll be yanked right off your horse's back!

3.F.19 Magic String:
Breadcrumbs aren't really an option in a cave full of bug eyed, big nosed ponies that specialize in hunting food- any food- in their homes. Instead, we have a Magic String that keeps track of where you've been for the last three minutes. Putting the magic string away will clear your path away entirely.

Because this requires an extreme amount of mental concentration, you cannot use your Magic String and Horsie Sense at the same time, and you are the only one that can see your own Magic String.

Magic String is activated with @ (since it looks like a ball of string!), hit it again or X to put it away.

3.F.20 Map:
As big as the lands of the Infinite Wilds are, you might find yourself wondering... is that the same creepy tree I passed an hour ago? With the map, you're able to view the places you've already been, with the fog of discovery hiding the rest. To pan your map (make it go side to side and such,) use your arrow keys. To reset it, just hit SPACE and your map will ZIP back to you at the center :)

To use your Map, press M to pull it out. The scroll button on your mouse zooms it in and out (or page up/down on your keyboard) and you can press M again or X to put it away when you're done reviewing your journey.

Places you have actually visited will have the clearest view; places you've only seen from afar will be paler.

Why is my map fuzzier on lower quality?
Because the map is pretty difficult to render (and is heavy!) you're going to get a different quality map on different quality settings. Awesome and High will give you the best, clearest quality map, while Normal, Low, and Lowest will have decreasing clarity so your computer doesn't get super bogged down.

What're all those dots for?
Much like your minimap, you'll be able to see buddies, clubs, journal entries, and your nearby ranch parcels. Unlike your minimap, you are able to hover your mouse pointer over those dots and see which buddy or club you're looking at!

What is the Cartographer?
Cartographers are available at an Adventure Table in clubs and will clear a 5km square section of the map for you at a fee. They only really know the area around the club they're located in, so you can't expect them to clear your entire map for you ;)

3.F.21 Musical Instruments:
There are musical instruments associated with each biome, and you can collect Essence from each of those biomes to buy them. Instruments are used to play some minigames.

To play an instrument, you'll use the numerical keys (1-0, - and =) for sharps and the Q-\ keys for your normal notes. To play a higher or lower octave, you can utilize the SHIFT buttons.
Right Shift will allow you to play a higher octave, while Left Shift allows you to play a lower octave. While this might feel a little akward at first, we've also seen how fingers need to move to play real-life instruments. 'Complicated' isn't fooling anyone as an excuse to not learn how to play these :P

Note Legend:
Q: C2
2: C#2
W: D2
3: D#2
E: E2
R: F2
5: F#2
T: G2
6: G#2
Y: A2
7: A#2
U: B2
I: C3
9: C#3
O: D3
0: D#3
P: E3
[: F3
=: F#3

3.F.22 Newspaper:
For 1000 essence(250 Sandstone Hills essence collected), you will gain access to the Horse Isle newspaper, which allows you to search all Village Stores for things for sale. Of course, you'll still need to visit the stores, as a newspaper is not a magical pigeon, but it may be handier to have this Newspaper on hand rather than visit a Shopping Board every time you wish to look at the availability of an item or horse!

Its shortcut is $. Hit $ again or X to put your newspaper away.

3.F.23 Photography:
Photography is a favorite pastime of many, and we've brought it to these grand Isles of ours.

Through a process known locally (as in here, in the game) called Photomagification, you are able to create silver nitrate with just a few ingredients and save the result to your computer.

You will need:
A Camera (1000 Essence with 250 Volcanic Essence collected) - This is a one time unlock, as with all equipment.
A film kit is required for each photo you take, and is made up of the ingredients below.
Red algae - this very angry algae is found in certain kinds of water, and is a key ingredient in making the 'nitrate' bit of silver nitrate.
Caribou moss - this lichen is found in the Tundra, and is also required for creating nitrate.
Silver ore - Mineable in volcanic caves, this shiny element is very important to the creation of silver nitrate, as implied by the name.
Paper, crafted from papyrus.

The plant ingredients are broken down over a long process from ammonia to nitrite to nitrate, but happens pretty much automatically here in Horse Isle simply by your having wished it complete. This is where the photography of Horse Isle diverges, historically, from most traditional methods of processing.

As soon as you click Use in your equipment menu, all of your ingredients combine and send a grainy black-and-white photograph to your computer, located near your F2 screenshots. This tool is used for your enjoyment and isn't focused on sharing the photographs in-game.
The exact path for the photos taken is:
Windows (C:) > Program Files > Horse Isle 3 > HI3 > HI3 Data.
Mac: Finder > Applications > HI3 Folder > Right Click on the game launcher (NOT patcher) > Show Package Contents > Contents Folder > Frameworks Folder.
Additionally, if you can't find it in your applications folder, right-click your game app on your dock and click "Show in Finder."

What Gets Tracked

Pointing your camera and taking a photo of most natural features- plants, fungi, animals, and geological formations- will be tracked.
Your Album stats located in your Profile will keep track of what unique animals you have and have not taken photos of.

Click your camera again to clear the photo from your screen to take another one.

Each new tracked critter or landscape object gives 10qp and 20 Essence, and goes towards the National Geographic award in-game :)

3.F.24 Pony Cart:
For 2000 essence (with 250 Mesa essence collected,) you can unlock the Pony Cart.

The pony cart gives your little ponies and horses a way to be 'ridden,' (or at least useful!) and pulling a cart operates just the same as riding a horse.

The pony cart is able to be pulled by any pony or miniature horse under 14.2hh with a pull strength greater than .21. Ideally, your cart pony should be .4 or higher in pulling strength. You will get a warning saying that your very small pony just isn't strong enough to pull the cart (even though she thinks she can!) - this message displays regardless of gender.

A pull strength greater than 1 sled will enable a horse to pull the cart with greater efficiency.

Hitting - will automatically attempt to bring out the last cart you used. Hitting - again or X will put it away.

What conformation plays a part in pulling a cart well?

Size and musculature will have a higher impact on pull strength, though having a broad chest will tend to help, as well.

What performance metrics play a part in pulling a cart well?

Speed and pull strength are indicators of how well a cart will be pulled.

What stats should I train my cart pony in?

Speed and strength training will help your little cart pony be the best cart puller there ever was!

3.F.25 Sailboat:
If you're tired of Kayaking and want something more involved than simply pressing a couple buttons, this VERY expensive piece of equipment is right up your alley. Using the wind as power, you can harness the forces of nature to travel the oceans much faster. It's no good for staying close to the shore, however- this ship has a deep keel and will run aground!

The winds of Horse Isle all blow in one direction. You'll need to set your sail boom accordingly (Shift+A and D, center it with W or S.) The direction of the wind is highlighted by the transparent blue and red arrows that appear when you're in your sailboat.

Your Sailboat has a rudder that needs to be adjusted if you're to have any control over it! Use the A and D keys to steer and W or S to center. To get the best speed out of your ship, try to catch the wind at its highest and keep focused on where the wind is blowing!

Wind Direction and Speed
These make for a very speedy way to get across the water, if you know how to use them. Going against the wind will put you at a dead stop; going with the wind will be smooth sailing!
Sometimes, the wind just isn't blowing very hard at all. You can usually sit these periods out without a problem, maybe sing some sea shanties with your buddies ;)

You're not the only one that can enjoy the wind on the water! You and four other players may take to the high seas in your trusty vessel, but only YOU are the captain! You can click and 'invite ridealong' or %ridealong PLAYERNAME to have people board your ship.

Getting Your Sailboat Out
The default key to board your trusty boat is J, and you can hit J or X to put it away.

3.F.26 Shovel:
The shovel is used for digging up things, usually beach sand used to make glass. To use it, select the shovel from your equipment, go to some suitable beach, and click the left mouse button, holding it down momentarily until you see that you've dug something up (a message to that effect will appear on the screen).

3.F.27 Skis:
Skis make travelling in snowy areas much easier and faster. And no, your horse can't wear them. This speeds up downhill snow travel by quite a bit! Better slalom to avoid the trees! Hit = to equip them; tap it again or hit X to put them away.

Press forward (W) to pole push when you're moving too slow, backward (S) to slow down. Hitting Space will allow you to jump... if you get over 1.5 seconds of air, it'll show on your air time on your screen!

3.F.28 Spyglass:
The spyglass allows you to get a closer view at distant objects. It can help you find collectible items, and give you a good look at a wild horse so you can make sure you really want to catch it. To see things further away, you can use the scroll button on your mouse (or page up/down on your keyboard.) This extends your view of the world around you to see things MUCH further away!

The shortcut for your spyglass is V on your keyboard. If you're done gazing off into the distance, hit V again or X to put it away.

3.F.29 Snowshoes:
Snowshoes have been used by different cultures all over the world for several thousand years, and are still in use today for being incredibly useful for areas where it's difficult or impossible to get a vehicle through.

They are so useful, in fact, that once unlocked, you will automatically equip your snowshoes when you hit snowy terrain!

3.F.30 Tag:
This is a simple game of tag, but whoever is IT has a large sign over their heads to make them easy to spot! The bigger the group of people, the more fun this game becomes.

3.F.31 Torch:
A torch to light the way! Burning your torch uses 1 unit of wood for every (real) minute it burns. The torch doesn't provide a lot of light, but it's enough for you to see where you're going. You can use it on horseback, too, if you're not fond of riding in the dark.

The shortcut for your Torch is T on your keyboard. Hit T again or X to shutter your flames... or just stand there and burn away all your wood.

NOTE: You cannot bring your torch out if you are in a group of more than 10 people (10 people in 100m.)

3.F.32 Art Kit:
For 10,000 Essence (with 1,000 Blacksands collected), you may unlock the Art Kit.
One of our player's favorite things in the history of, well, ever, has long been customization of their horses. In Horse Isle 2, we gave players the option to create rump and player profile art to further make the game their own...
With a few additions.

Before we begin, we need to remind players that all art must follow Horse Isle Rules, which means you cannot use it to go around or break any of our rules. Any art found breaking the rules will be removed and you will not be compensated the publishing cost. We'll repeat this again at the end, just to be clear ;) All art needs to go through a reviewing process before being accepted into the game. The reviewing process is described at the bottom of this Help Center document.

Once a picture is out in the world and published, you cannot delete it unless you have also deleted every instance of it in-game. You cannot force anyone to give you the sticker if you sold it, but once it's out of your hands it is no longer in your control!

Horse Rump Art

This favorite classic allows you to create art that can be applied to the rump of any horse you own. You are also able to sell rump art stickers for other people to apply to their horses- the best designs will sell most often! This can be used as a harmless, permanent brand or just a silly doodle for your ponies.
This sticker will appear on both sides of your horse- before you panic a little over image text being inversed, we have an option for that! If you've got something that needs to be flipped on the other side to have it make any sense, select the "right pixels face head" option before you start your masterpiece.

Hint: Dark colored art will be a lot harder to see on dark horses, just as light art will be harder to see on lighter horses. Making both a light and dark colored version will be a good idea!
Other hints are included when making your art- different modes will have different explanations next to them on the Art Tool.

Rump Art Stickers are created through your art kit (type %art to bring up your current art) after making Blank Stickers at your workshop. They require 1 Paper and 1 Honey to create. They may be removed and reapplied as much as you like, but are treated like tack (so one sticker can only be used for one horse!)

Profile Art Stickers

Profile art is a fan favorite, enabling players to create something that really means something to them. This can be anything- a flower, a pony face, a 'ranch sign,' or whatever your heart desires.
Profile art may be applied to your personal profile or a club profile. You'll need to select this option from the start to create a Profile picture!
Clubs may use this same profile art, though the sticker is immediately returned to the sticker owner, sort of like a transfer.

Blanket Quilting

English and Western blankets, as well as simple blankets, have a special, quiltable type that may have a quilting pattern applied to it. While this is usually done while you're making it, in Horse Isle we've found a way to do it AFTER it's already made. (Please don't ask.) Quilting patterns work a lot like dye jars! Just go to your %art panel and apply a quilting pattern after it's been published and approved.


Flags will come, eventually, at a later date. Watch this space! You cannot currently publish Flag art. Clarification on Flags: These flags are intended to be Club related. We do not allow any kind of real-world flags in-game.

All art must follow Horse Isle Rules, which means you cannot use it to go around or break any of our rules. Art must be unique and you may not copy another player's original sticker design. (Basically means, if someone's created a superhero logo, you can create your own superhero logo exactly like that one. But if someone's created a sticker that is wholly their own, you may not replicate it. Art must not represent any sort of real-life flag whatsoever.

Art costs $2,000 to start to put through the Moderator Review; this price increases by $250 with every new piece.

Any player with a Mod Trust Score of 75 or higher and is in their majority (18 or older, according to their signup birth date) may review art.

Players wishing to moderate art can type in %mod, at the bottom of which they'll find a handy review spot where the art in question may be seen. Flagging art will cause it to go to Admin Review, where one of the game Admins will review the problem art.
Players who review art will receive $250 Gold Dust in exchange for their time. Be sure to flag art correctly, however, or you'll be penalized!

Art requires 250 points before being approved to the game.


With stickers created with the art kit, you may also apply them to stickerable shirts, tank tops, hunt coats, and glasses. October's mobia store features a tophat that you may stick a sticker to, as well!
If you're the quilting kind of crafty, you may add a quilting pattern to quiltable shirts and breeches.

Note that the items you want to customise MUST say 'Stickerable' or 'Quiltable' or you will be unable to do this!

3.F.33 Lead Rope:
Players may unlock a Lead rope through the Equipment menu for 500 essence (with 100 Swamp essence collected) that will allow them to lead any of their equines... as long as they've also got a halter on.

Unlocking a lead rope will also enable you to compete in in-hand only shows! A lead rope requires a halter, which may be crafted, or bridle to be equipped on the horse. Hit U to equip it to the horse; hitting it again or X will put it away.

Personalities in Leading

It's not just your traditionally cranky equids that won't be particularly fond of the lead rope. Horses that have stubborn or ornery or leader personality will decide that they don't like standing still or think they can lead YOU and might pull you around! Any equine in a bad mood will also give you some trouble.

Some equines- notably donkeys, zebras, and their hybrids- also won't immediately take to being led around, just as they don't particularly like being ridden around at first! Patience and experience (5,000 bond OR 5,000 Experience) will have all of your cranky equines leading around like professionals.

The 5,000 bond OR 5,000 experience goes for all, just so we're clear! Nothing will pull you into a tar pit or cenote or off an island completely once they've hit that threshold.

Sloooowwwwly Leading

Donkeys, zebras, and their hybrids (including when hybridized with horses) will tend to be slower on the leadrope than horses. They'll go faster when they're more experienced, of course, so patience will be a virtue in dealing with these more unique equines.

3.F.34 Recording Kit:
With a Recording Kit, players may record music they create with their instruments, up to ten minutes long. Hit ; to pull up the instrument wheel to select the instrument you'd like to record yourself playing and hit 'record!' An instrument can only be used once per track, so you cannot set up a cacophony... err... orchestra of recorders playing Three Blind Mice both out of tune and slightly off beat.
Those not so skilled with music need not fear, for those that are skilled can do commissions and trade un-crafted recordings, meaning recordings that don't have any copies yet.

You can manage your music by clicking the proper button on the recording panel or by typing %MUSIC, but note that once you're done recording and save it, there's no editing your masterpiece!
Please make sure you choose a Genre for your music to make sure it's easier for others to find music they're interested in.

Music may only be deleted if no copies are remaining in the world.
Crafting a Permanent Record costs 25 Mobia each. Make sure the price you set for your records reflects this!

Gramophone House

Every ranch and club house has been given a complimentary gramophone in which to play records. If you go to your ranch house, you can pick a soundtrack for it of all the music in your inventory, if you so wish. Records loop in the order you add them to the house and will be synchronized for all players on the parcel (meaning you can ask someone what's playing and they'll hear the same thing!)

Owners and managers may add or remove club records from the clubhouse. Once removed, it will go to its owner's inventory, NOT to the person who removed it ;)

But why does it cost mobia to press a record?

Importing costs! Horse Isle does not have a natural source of vinyl, and importing it can be fairly expensive. To make sure every record pressed is worth these high import costs for such an unusual material, the importers have decided to charge a bit more for it.

Note that you do not need to go to an Importer... as soon as you hit 'craft' they will deliver it, pronto! This also ensures it doesn't get chomped on by a curious zebra.

How do I make it STOP?

You can always quickly mute all game sounds up in your toolbar and unmute when all is safe and quiet :)

3.F.35 Seahorse:
This friendly, giant sized Seahorse is more than happy to help you move faster through the great oceans of Horse Isle, provided you have an underwater helmet.

Your Seahorse will sink further into the water if you hit C and will surface a bit if you hit Space. You'll need to be underwater with your helmet equipment for the Seahorse to be summoned, which you can quickly do with the % button!

The Seahorse is VERY EXPENSIVE, costing 25,000 Essence (with 2500 Mediterranean essence collected.) They'll be a worthy companion for you, however!

G) Mail System

3.G.1 Overview:
Feeling a little disconnected from someone (or you just... keep missing them online?) Bridge the gap a little bit by sending them some mail at any Post Office!

You can send them a gift of mobia (if they're a buddy or clubby) or gold dust inside the message, too.

3.G.2 Sending:
You may send mail by activating (clicking) the post office building in club towns.

You may also send mail to more than one person at a time! Just separate their usernames with a comma (IE PlayerName,PlayerTwo,PlayerThree) though this will cost the same amount of gold dust it would have if you'd just sent them individually, so you cannot send a letter to a dozen people for the cost of one ;)

3.G.3 Receiving Mail:
If you've received mail, you can check your messages by going to the Post Office in any club town. (Magically, your mail exists in all post offices at the same time until you check it.)

Any gold dust or mobia you've received in the letter will be automagically added to what you have on hand!

H) Missions

3.H.1 Overview:
Missions are the Horse Isle 3 equivalent of quests. You may take on multiple missions at a time of different types, though some are limited to one at a time.

Missions can earn gold dust, Quest Points, and Essence upon completion, with varying payouts depending on the mission type and difficulty.

A club quest created by a player will always be located at the club the player was a member of when the quest slot was unlocked.

With 10,000 Quest Points, you can unlock a new library specialization!

3.H.2 Mail Missions:
Mail Missions are undertaken at the Post Office in clubs, one at a time. They have you 'deliver' mail to a ranch house within ABOUT 5km of the post office you started the mission from. You'll need to pay a $100 fee to start the mission, but you'll get it and a base 250 gold dust back upon completion of the delivery. The amount of gold dust received will depend on how far away the ranch house is from the club. The minimum range tends to be within 125 to 130m, depending on how the buildings on ranches are oriented vs. the orientation of the post office.

You will also receive Quest Points upon completion!

Mail missions are automatically cancelled after 30 hours, if you don't complete it or you've found it's impossible to complete.

Mail missions will also sometimes send you to a totally out of the way area; this occurs when the player home you were assigned has been removed or relocated. If you cannot complete the mission when this occurs, you can wait 30 hours for it to time out and it will be removed from your quest log.

3.H.3 Adventure Quests:
Club members Silver and above may set up various Quests for 1,000 essence per Quest. They must then be reviewed by the club's Managers/Owners, then by Support before they can be permanently put into the game. Your quest will be located at the club you were a member of when the quest slot was unlocked.

We have a more extensive Help Video for quest creation in case this help section isn't clear! We understand that this process can feel quite overwhelming.

These steps are required to ensure the quality of the quests. These may be very short and only have a few steps, or be very long and have many steps, depending on its creator!

How to Start:

If a club has an Adventure Table, anyone in game may participate in one by clicking the table and choosing an Adventure Quest from the list.
As you complete each step, you'll be prompted to complete the next one with a new pop-up window until the quest is complete.
You may have a maximum of 5 adventure quests running at once.
You can view your progress or cancel your quest at any time by going to Myself > Missions in the Player tab.

Steps that may be included in quests:

Stat Gain: Gain X stats to complete- Puzzle points, Bond, or Experience.
Read Text: Read a bit of text before continuing on. (This can be marked as an end, too, if you chose win/fail in a Multiple Choice quest.)
Dig: This step requires you to dig at a certain location.
Try Course: This step requires you to try (and finish!) a certain course, created by the quest's author. It doesn't need to be during a competition, simply "Trying" will work.
Ride Breed: This step requires you to ride a horse of a certain breed.
Gain Essence: This step requires that you gather a certain amount of Essence- it may or may not be limited to a certain biome.
Take Photo: This step requires you to take a photo of a world object.
Catch Wild: This step requires you to catch a certain number of wild horses- it may or may not require you to catch them in a certain biome. Note that you must use a lasso to catch these; using the treat method will not work.
Find Treasure: This step requires that you find a certain treasure (a findable such as pirate treasure, pot of gold, mother horse stone, or meteorite.)
Go to Location: This step requires you to go to a certain location before continuing.
Answer Question: This step requires you to answer a question before moving on.
Craft Item: This step requires you to craft an item to complete it- if it's something like a dye, it'll require the EXACT dye.
Add to Counter: This step requires a player to add to a counter- examples would be regions explored, horses caught, wilds released, treasures gained. (This isn't a full list.)

Multiple Choice: The most intrepid quest designers may choose to create a Multiple Choice questline, each potentially with a different end and path a player may take.
Multiple Choice can be used to create overarching, epic quests- from a choose your own adventure with a chance to fail or simply letting the player complete the quest as they choose.
You must make sure that the step actually exists before requiring it as a step- having an errant quest step that doesn't lead to anything may end up with a broken quest, or one that doesn't make a lot of sense.

You can create a simple multiple choice that only has a few different steps to complete, or have a very fancy one that requires multiple different steps to complete.

In a fancier multiple choice, you can have win/fail options, where the quest is cancelled and the player must start the quest again from the beginning. It's best to plot out a sort of outline for one of these so as to not have a bunch of steps to trip over!

An example simple multiple choice:

After catching, riding, and competing with [horse breed]. Do you like them? A: Yes (would have you completing the quest as a 'win') B: No (would have you starting quest over) C: Maybe (fail, start quest over)

An example complicated multiple choice:
Has you pick several paths to take, each with a chance at a win/fail ending. Some steps may 'cross over' from other paths, or all paths may meet to one of two ends (win/fail.)

Creating Quests:

You may create/edit your own Quests under the Clubs tab with the Quest Editor button. Your quest will be located at the club you were a member of when the quest slot was unlocked. We know we've added that bit twice in this article, but it's important!

Creating quests is pretty simple, as you're given prompts in the editing panel. A bit of review on some of the steps:

Dig: The dig location is saved as the location set in the quest step panel; you must manually set this at your desired dig location.
Ride Breed: The breed required for this is whatever horse breed you last mounted (this ensures that the breed is already in the game ;) )
Go to Location: like Dig, this is saved as the exact spot you're in when you save the step in the editing window, and is changed if you edit it in a different location.
Craft Item: The item you last crafted will be the required item for this step.
Try Course: You yourself must be the owner of this course.

The quest steps start at 5 (and go up in intervals of five) to make re-ordering quest steps a little easier. Starting at step 1 would, potentially, mean that you'd have to delete ALL of your progress in creating the quest, losing a lot of hard work (and wasting a lot of time!) You are, of course, welcome to change the quest steps to 1;2;3 if you'd like... but we suggest just leaving it as it is :)

You may also have a prerequisite quest (one that needs to be done before another quest,) if you're the type to create multiple quests and wish to have your quests done in a certain order.

Before your quest is reviewed, you yourself must be able to complete it. You'll be required to "Try" it before it's able to be submitted!
Your quest must be reviewed first by a Manager+ of your club, then a Moderator, before being Live in the game.
If it doesn't pass inspection, it'll be sent back to you and you'll be able to edit it to fit the suggestions given by the Manager+ or Moderator. You will need to alert your club Managers/Owner that you've got a quest for them to review. It does not give a notification.
Managers+ are able to review potential quests by using the %MOD command.
If a manager fails to review your quest within 50 hours, it'll be sent to ModReview on its own :)


You're awarded earnings of gold dust, Essence, and Quest Points upon completion of every quest based on its difficulty.

3.H.4 Breed Group Challenges:
Horse Isle boasts an incredible number of unique horse breeds and their subtypes. We wonder if it's possible to collect them all...

While most people will never have the patience to collect all of them, we've given you the opportunity -- and proof -- to say you've owned a breed group all at the same time at least once.

Each Breed Group Challenge is either a fun breed grouping that otherwise wouldn't make sense -- Franches Morgana, for example -- or a more typical, actual breed grouping, like the Japanese Native Collection.

Cool! How do I get started with these challenges??
You may view these challenges on your Player Profile below the Awards button.

The challenges are listed alphabetically, and you may complete them in whatever sequence you choose. Just check the list, collect the breeds required, and then go back to the list and click "Attempt" to complete the challenge. Upon completion, the horses remain yours (the game doesn't take them).

While some challenges are super easy to complete and require only 2 or 3 breeds, others are more difficult and require 9+ breeds. The good news is that you can take as much time as you need to complete these challenges. So, chill out and enjoy the search. :)

Sounds super simple. Where's the challenge?
We're glad you asked!

1) You must own the horses.
Leased horses don't count. The horses must be 100% yours.

2) You must own the exact breed the challenge calls for.
Subtypes don't count. If the challenge calls for a certain breed that happens to have subtypes, it'll take only that breed, not the subtypes.

For example: if the challenge calls for a Thoroughbred, the horse must be a Thoroughbred. Not a Thoroughbred-subtype (e.g. Sprinter Thoroughbred) but simply a Thoroughbred.

3) You must own all horses in a breed group at the same time.
When you Attempt to complete the challenge, the game will check if you have all of the required breeds at the time of the attempt.

For example: if a challenge calls for a Friesian and an Icelandic, it means you must own both a Friesian and an Icelandic at the same time to complete the challenge. If you only own one of them and click "Attempt," the game will tell you that you're missing a breed.

Alright, it's trickier than I thought. Is it worth it?
Yep, it does, or we wouldn't add it. ;)

Fun and challenge aside, you'll be rewarded 200GD and 10QP per horse per breed group upon a completed challenge.
E.g.: a group with seven breeds in it will offer you 1400GD and 70QP.

You can also earn extra income by selling these breeds as a bundle to fellow players who want to finish the same challenge as you just did.

There's also an award you can win per challenge, like many of our accomplishments in the game! (Complete this many challenges per award level.)

And last but not least, there's the Top 100 list for players who completed most challenges. It's one of the easier lists to climb up (if you act fast and strategically) because with each big game update new challenges are added, so keep an eye out for those. ;)

Tips for success
If you act smart, you'll see that these challenges are even easier than you thought!

1) Some challenges require the same breeds.
So, before you sell breeds away, it might be worth going over the remaining challenges and seeing if one of them requires a breed that you currently own.

2) Check for bundles to save on time.
Maybe a fellow player just completed a challenge and is looking for a buyer who'll buy all of the breeds for that particular challenge? It's always worth asking around.

3) Copy the challenge into a text document.
Some challenges can be difficult to track due to the number of breeds required, so here's an easy solution: Right-click on the challenge to copy it > paste it into a text software (e.g. Word) > color/cross-off any of the breeds you found, to know where you are at the challenge.

[This last tip is particularly useful if you're working on several challenges at once.]

Good luck with your breed collection! :D

3.H.5 Center Horse Head Quests:
The Ancient Ruins Horse Head will also offer quests from the ancient book on the plinth. It's almost unreadable, but some words remain, guiding you to ancient ruins both near and far from the Center.

We're as of yet unsure of who- or what- built the ancient ruins, but they're something to be marveled at.

Completing each of the quests will grant you Quest Points.

To cancel a Center Quest, you can simply go into Myself > My Current Missions and click 'cancel.' You can also view the step you're on here.

3.H.6 NPC Quests:
You may start an NPC quest by clicking 'Talk' on the building menu and agreeing to take the quest- exiting it without agreeing to the quest won't keep a bunch of quests tied up in your log.

Quests vary from the Interactive ReadMe type (Read along and answer questions given), True/False quizzes, either/or quizzes, fetch quests, and input quests (where you input your answer into a nice, neat little box.)

All quests will offer a reward of different value and some quest points. You can keep track of what quest you're doing for which NPC (and which club they're employed by!) by going to Myself > Missions and clicking on current NPC quests.

In Horse Isle 3, we have even tried our best to make sure that not every NPC will say the same thing or even look the same- while there may be some repetition, they are truly as unique as the world itself. NPCs will even react to what you've said in different animations, further bringing the world to life.

Every NPC is tied to your club, not the building itself. To give an example, destroying a vet building will simply leave them unemployed until you rebuild your club's Vet building, and then they'll pop right back in and get back to work as soon as they can, offering the same quest they did before (so no firing an NPC just because you don't like their quest ;) ) If the building is deleted, the quest is removed from any player currently on the quest's quest log until the building is replaced.

NPCs may be replaced once every 30 days by a manager or higher of the club, if they so desire, to refresh the quest and NPC offered at any one building.

I) Ranches

3.I.1 How to Buy a Ranch Parcel:
Ranch Parcels are available in every biome in the Wilds. They come in square, 1 hectare (100 meter x 100 meter, about 2.5 acres) parcels, and you may own as many as you want, in as many biomes as you want!

To find an available parcel:

1)Look around to find an area where you think you'd like to set up a ranch. Remember to consider things like availability of water, adequate grass, and so on.

2) Click Ranch. The Ranch Management window will come up.

3) Click View next to Buy or Manage Your Ranch Properties. The "My Parcels" window will come up.

4) Click Use next to "Homesteading: See what parcels are available for purchase. Start walking (it won't work while riding). When you come across a parcel that is available, you'll see a yellow outline. One that is already taken, or is reserved, or is too close to someone else's parcel, it will be outlined in red. Looking around that parcel labeled "Parcel Status." Read it carefully. It gives you information on that parcel, including what biome or biomes it's in, how much is land vs. water, etc.

5) Like that spot? Press and hold your mouse button to purchase it!

A few notes on purchasing parcels:

Only buddies may build right next to one another. A player may buy a parcel adjoining their own if one is available.

Sometimes a parcel will be unavailable because it is reserved in some way; be aware that it's reserved for things which may be added in the future. Reserved parcels are reserved by the game; players cannot reserve parcels.

Gold Club Members and above may purchase a parcel within the club's region. If you are not a Gold member, you will be prevented from purchasing anywhere within the region as these are reserved for higher member levels of the club.

You cannot stop anyone from buying any available parcel.

Parcel slots are permanently unlocked with gold dust, and this number will increase by a fair bit with each parcel slot you unlock. You can buy as many parcel slots as you like, given you've got the gold dust to spend on additional slots. Every parcel you buy will stay the same cost.

3.I.2 Building on Your Parcels:
Just as with Horse Isle 1 and Horse Isle 2, the first thing you must put on your parcel is your ranch house.

To do this:

1) Walk to the approximate spot where you'd like your ranch house to be.

2) On the top menu (remember, you can access the top menu at any time by hitting the ESC key), click Ranch. Once you own a parcel, there will be a Build Ranch Structure option. Click that, and the Build Ranch Structure window will appear.

3) The first thing you'll see is that you need Building Permits and Deco Permits. Every parcel starts out with a few of each. Building permits allow you to build structures like your house, barns, workshops and such. Deco Permits are for building fences, signs, wells and the like. These cost progressively more the more of them you buy; but if you decide you don't want a structure anymore, you keep your building permit. Nota Bene: Building permits are PER PARCEL; so you can't use a building permit you bought while on Parcel A to build on Parcel B.

4) Once you have a building permit, you'll need to place your Ranch House. Note that no matter how many parcels you own, you can only have ONE ranch house. You can move it if you find a place you like better, but one is all the game allows. Click on Ranch House. You will see a transparent version of the house. If it's red, you're trying to put it somewhere it can't go (not your parcel, on top of a tree, whatever; the game will tell you). When the house is in full color, you may place it. If it's not exactly where you want, move your character/yourself around until you find the perfect spot. Hold down the left mouse button while moving the mouse to rotate the building. When you release the mouse button, your new house will rise, fully formed, from the ground!

The Right of Way
The Right of Way, or RoW, is the area of your ranch you cannot place buildings on or fence in. This is to prevent very large chunks of land from being fenced in (even real life ranches have access roads like this!) You may place hay fields and pastures here, however, so you're able to use more of the space.

You can also remove certain trees, stumps, and plants from your ranch if they're in the way by "digging" them. The option becomes available if you've got a shovel- this does take energy, and if you don't build over the thing you've dug up, it'll regrow!

Boulders and big rocks are a permanent fixture of the landscape and can't be moved.

3.I.3 Setting Up Your Ranch Colors:
Don't like the default colors of your ranch buildings? Not a problem! Not only can you change the colors, but you can have a different set of colors on each of your parcels.

To do this, click Ranch -> Buy or Manage... -> Settings. The Parcel Properties window will appear. Here you can name your parcel whatever you'd like, and, by clicking on the color swatches, choose the colors of your house, the trim on your house, your barn, the trim on your barn, your roofs, and your fencing.

3.I.4 Ranch Buildings:
While most of these are covered in other sections in the Help Center, we'll go over them again briefly.

Buildings use building permits.

Ranch House: This is where you live! You must build a ranch house before putting any other buildings on your ranch, and you can only have one ranch house.
Barn: If you want to have more horses, you need to build barns! Currently there are three options: Gilligan, Classic, and Shedrow styles.
Garden: Gardens provide food, if you're patient enough to wait for them to grow.
Furnace: Furnaces are required for basic crafting needs and require 10 coal to light up!
Workshop: Workshops are required for crafting tack and other items!
Textile Workshop: Sew you want to make clothes? :) You need to make the cloth bolts here.
Water Trough: A water trough is a handy place to water a single horse.
Water Tower: Though expensive, this waters all of your horses at once!
Well: Well, well, well... what do we have here? It's a well for filling buckets!
Hay Field: A hay field produces hay bales, and takes a few days to grow.
Hay Shed: A hay shed holds all the hay bales your fields produce, with a capacity of 7.
Show Pen: Got a horse you want to show off? Show Pens hold a horse for you and add an additional horse slot. (Note: They are still added to your horse count, but cannot be bred, sold, or entered in competitions as they're busy being pretty.)
Pasture: Does the Show Pen feel too confining? Try putting your beloved horse in a Pasture, instead. While a horse is in either a Show Pen or a Pasture, they'll be fed and watered every hour! This will also give you an additional horse space :)
Storage Bins: You may create a lot of storage bins to hold as many items as you desire (or, at least, have the building permits for.) Each Storage Bin increases your item limit by 100 (per item!)
Clown Cannon Punt your friends!

Decorative Buildings use deco permits.

Fence: Nothing says "keep out" like a good fence! These must connect start-to-end, like a snake.
Fence Gate: You're the only one that can open or close these, and with a high enough fence paired with a closed fence gate, you can ensure nobody gets in but you.
Directional Sign: These point the way to a place you've got saved in your Travel Journal, with the KM distance next to it.
Info Sign: These are helpful for ranch descriptions and instructions, or if you want to tell a little about yourself for all to see. (Or, at least, ranch visitors.)
Dock Ramp: A dock ramp helps people get from the ground and on to your dock without needing to inelegantly jump.
Dock Section: Dock sections are built together to form as long or short a dock as you wish- you can even turn these into bridges!
Lamp Post: You are able to illuminate your ranch.
Planters: Ever wanted to have a very specific tree or flower in a very specific spot? With planters, you can do this with every tree or plant that grows in these fair lands (and a few that don't grow here naturally at all!) Note: The trees and plants are NOT collectible if they're in a planter, as they're purely decorative! Plants in planters cannot be used for photography.
Plushie Pedestals: These allow for you to permanently display a plushie. They also destroy the plush upon use, however! You can also use these plushies for photography!

3.I.5 Preserves:
Players may have multiple preserves, if they wish, to have a nice, wide open space of land that nobody else may build on. This is ideal for players that like setting up a lot of courses and don't want other player's courses to interfere with theirs!

Note that every preserve increases in price by a factor of three- the first is 100,000, the next is 300,000, the third is 900,000, the fourth is 2,700,000... and so on. Preserves will have a 500m buffer zone around it where nobody can build on or around the parcel's center.

A ranch parcel that's been turned into a preserve can be built on (courses only.) Preserve owners may build competition courses. Even the preserve owner cannot purchase a parcel on it, however! When you see a preserve in-game with lots of parcels built on it, the parcels were purchased before the central parcel was turned into a preserve.

Anyone going through a parcel may collect stones, sticks, and driftwood on the Preserve. They may also harvest things (apples, acorns, honey... things that don't have a negative effect on the world.) You cannot gather items on a preserve (IE things that might cause the death of the plant.) Trees may not be chopped for wood or otherwise destroyed for resources by anyone, including the Preserve owner.

3.I.6 Rotating Placed Buildings:
A single click on rotate and then slide your mouse whichever direction you want to change the item.

Once you have the building facing the direction you want, do a single click again of your mouse to get out of the rotation option.

Some buildings are trickier to rotate than others- doing this in third person is often your best bet, so you can see the roof line rotate the way you want it to go!

3.I.7 Selling Parcels:
Purchasing Parcels from Other Players

You're also able to sell parcels to other players (if there's nothing on it.) You can do this in the trade menu like you would anything else. Parcel trades must be completed ON the parcel you're selling- that way we can keep things honest.

You must be in possession of the parcel in order to sell it; leading someone to the parcel spot and then charging is trading on a promise and is NOT allowed.

Those wishing to go into the real estate business may sell a parcel with buildings already on it! It's suggested that the seller ensure that they'll have enough barns for their horses once the sale is finished as you will go overmax if you're not making sure all your horses have a space of their own.

4) Getting Started

A) Beginner Bird

4.A.1 First Steps:
NOTE: Beginner Bird also has a quest you can take. In fact if you're here without having started the quest, that's a little weird, but we all do things on our own time. Beginner Bird's quest can be done by clicking on her on the right side of your screen. She'll help you out quite a bit! This informative page right here will remain just in case you need a refresher at any time or you're in need of reading material written by a bird.

SQUAAARK! You just landed here. Beginner Bird smart, very smart bird that wants to help you. BB for short. BB help you.
(Note: Beginner Bird is an actual bird. She's very chirpy and whistles or squawks fairly often.)

What is this place?
Skilaaaark! You are in a welcome area. New player, very nice. Soft landing. Stranded now, brawwwk! Called a club village, lots of these. This is your starting point! It is random where you spawn, there is no official "Beginner" area.

How do I move?
Cweaaarrrk! WASD keys on keyboard, whistles, or arrow keys. Moving good! Moving is exploring! Move mouse to look around.

How do I collect things?
Ahhhrrk, need to click on things or hit E while looking at it. Picking things up and chopping trees down takes energy! Need rocks and wood to build horsey barns.

Can I go into third person?
BB likes first bird perspective, makes for nicer game. But if pony head bobbing makes you sick or first person makes you dizzy, scroll out with mouse button. Brawwwp! Can also use Page Up/Page Down buttons, or pinch in/out if using a touch pad.

Can I rotate my camera around me?
Yarrk, yes, . (period) and , (comma) buttons at bottom of keyboard will rotate camera, or can use mouse in default settings (mousie doesn't do anything in Classic third person.) Useful for horsie-induced motion sickness. Can also pick "anti-motion sickness" in Settings!

What are those buildings?
Cuureeeek! For goods and services! Club villages have horsey stuff and shops. Everywhere! Not like old games, squilark! Gotta click. Clicking uses. Can't go inside, buildings too small. Only items inside! All club stores are owned by players. Players add different things to their stores so not every store will have everything you need.

Where are the horses?
ARRK! Horsies everywhere but ranches and in towns. If you can't find any, walk further away from everyone. Wild horsies don't stay wild for long near club towns.

How do I catch a horse?
10 Essence unlocks your Lasso up in EQUIPMENT menu at the top of the screen, BRAWK, then hit the L BUTTON on keyboard to use it. Need to sloooowwly walk up to wild horsies, but not too close or they run! Aim crosshairs at horse's neck, let it swing a few times around your head, then let it go when lasso is facing the horse. Takes a few tries.
SQUEEARK you can also give wild horsies treats, if you have crafted any, by opening inventory, hitting "Horse Treats," then selecting a treat. Then, start walking forward while offering the treat. If horsey likes, it goes Yum Yum! and into your 'horse inventory.' If horsey doesn't like, it goes Meh and trots off. Keep trying!

How do I get Essence?
Karrak! Essence is floaty shiny orby things. Very easy to see at night, magically lights up by itself. Squilarrrk, Essence is found in all biomes, even over water. Just explore and find lots! Essence is for unlocking things- equipment, store slots, course slots, talking to everyone in Global and Ads chat. Very important! You cannot buy Essence from other players, only thing you gotta collect on your own, BRAAWK!

How do I get Tack?
Araaaak! Tack made in workshops (need a ranch!) or buy from other players. Easier to buy first set from player store than make when you're just starting! ACAAACK... check Shopping Boards to see where tack and other items are sold!

How do I feed myself?
BB whistles very loudly! No need, no need! Somehow you don't get hungry or thirsty. Only horsies! You do get tired though. Wait for energy to refill on its own or pour Essence into a fountain or use an Esroh Essence.

What are those dots on the minimap?
EEARRK, dots are places- purple dots are clubs, blue dots are your ranch parcels, white dots are buddies, and the big white dot with the circle around it is the Center of the World.

Is there a World map?
Brawwk, can unlock one in Equipment menu for lots of essence, but you need to fill it out yourself by exploring, otherwise it's just a piece of paper with club dots on it.

What do I do now?
SQUARK! Explore! Find horsies, make friends. Friends good! Friends help. Can also read more of HELP section if you need, very full of information! (BB checked it herself!)

Are there quests?
BRAWWK! Yes! Buildings have quests (not player stores, though!) and if you find your way to the World Center (check wagon routes in clubs- many will have a route to it) you will be able to complete a few travel quests that do not require item collection.

Click the [?] at the top menu bar to get more info on anything in the game!

B) For Parents

4.B.1 Letter to Parents:
Dear Parents;

We are pleased that you are allowing your child to explore the world of Horse Isle. We also understand that you may have concerns with who your child is interacting with. As such, we've implemented a Parental Block feature so you may ask us to limit who your child can chat with, and will be covered in the bottom part of this letter.

While Horse Isle 3 is a family friendly atmosphere, we also understand that many parents may have concerns and fears about their child playing an online multiplayer game. These concerns are valid and we are more than willing to work with you to keep your child both safe and entertained.

All it takes is a mail to support (by opening a ticket in the Help Center OR sending us an email,) your child's playername, and the email used to register your child's account. You may then ask for one of the following chat blocks to be applied to your child's account:

All Chat Block: Your child will not be able to see or send any chats. This is definitely the safest mode, though it may take away some of the Horse Isle experience.

Block Private Chat: Your child will not be able to send or receive any private or buddy chats, but will have access to global, advertisements, area, party, and help chats. This prevents most unwanted contact, but still makes the game playable.

Buddy Only Chat: This mode blocks everything but Buddy chat, which is great for when you want to play with your kids and only want them to chat with you.

Many of the Horse Isle team are parents and guardians, ourselves, and want only the best experience for both our families and yours!

We hope you and your child have the best time possible while spending time with us;

-The Horse Isle Team

C) Horses

4.C.1 Your First Horse:
Getting a horse when you first start out can be both exciting and frustrating.

Purchasing From Player Stores
Nearly all club towns will have player stores, and many of these will have horses for sale.

Catching A Wild
Infinite Wilds has... infinite wilds. Explore enough and you'll soon find more horses than you have slots for! You'll need to first unlock your Lasso in Equipment (requires essence,) then will be able to begin catching wild horses.

To use your lasso, hit L and walk slowly up to the wild horse. Too close and they'll panic and run a bit. Aim your crosshairs at the horse's head or neck and give your lasso a few swings- once the lasso is at about the head or neck, let it fly!

Alternatively, you can catch a wild horse by using crafted treats. Hold your Left Shift button while walking slowly towards the horse, offering the treat (by holding your left mouse button down.) If the horse likes your treat, they'll join you!

Both methods take a bit of practice, but in time you'll be a master wrangler :)

The Generosity of Others
Sometimes, more experienced players will be happy to gift a new player a horse. However, asking for free horses is never allowed and is considered begging.

4.C.2 Basic Care:

Your horse needs to eat! Luckily, you don't need to purchase a hay barn and the works right away. You can just find a grassy area and dismount to let them eat. This might take a while, so if you're in a hurry, you can just hand feed them food you find in the world, like coconuts, berries, and avocados. Hand feeding fills them up MUCH faster than grazing!

Horses get pretty thirsty while you're both online and off. You can leave them to drink in streams or unlock a bucket in your Equipment menu, which can be filled at nearly any water source. To water your horse, hit B and hold the bucket up to their face. They'll slurp the whole bucket down if you let them! Usually they only need to drink about a quarter of it.

Sprinting will wear your horse out super quickly, and if you don't keep them fed and watered, they'll drop stamina super fast! It generally takes about twenty minutes for a horse to full recover from being Very Tired. It's really not a good idea to sprint your horses everywhere if you'd like for them to go for a long time, as the faster they go, the quicker their stamina runs out (just like a real horse!) Running them at about 75% of the Speed bar will get you where you need to go without draining all their stamina. Training in Endurance will help, as well, if you're an adventurer that goes for very long treks.

Your brush needs to be unlocked in the Equipment with Essence, but once you unlock it, it'll be good to go! To brush your horse and get its groom and mood up, hit G and approach them. Once they start purring, you know they're being groomed!

Horses can (and often do) injure themselves in magnificent ways. Most towns offer vet services for your accident prone ponies, and you'll need to get them taken care of before you can ride them after an injury.

A horse in a bad mood won't breed. You can pet them by hitting P and holding the left mouse button down while standing close to them. This method is VERY efficient at getting their mood up!

Ostlery Services

If you've got money to burn and are too lazy to care for your horses (or just in a rush!) you can always use a club's Ostlery building (it's the one with a blue ^ over a horse head!) The services are very expensive, but worth it if you've got a lot of horses you need to care for quickly.

4.C.3 Where Do My Horses Go?:
Your horses will never get lost and even though you can't see them, they follow you about the Wilds. If you place or dismount a horse, they will pop back into your Horse Inventory when you're about 100 meters away from them.

A horse can never get lost in the Wilds, they're too attached to you and can find you anywhere!

From the start as a non-subscriber, you'll have three spots in your "Horse Inventory." While you can go over, the horses don't like it much (putting them in bad moods) and you'll lose travel, energy, and focus.

D) Overview

4.D.1 Basic Questions and Answers:

Is there a world map?
Technically, yes. But it requires essence to unlock (in your Equipment tab up top) and you'll need to fill it out yourself- unexplored areas are covered by the Fog of Adventure, just waiting for you to discover them.

Where is everyone?
The world is about 1144kkm from world center on all sides, or in non-mathematical terms, REALLY big. Most players are either exploring, at their ranches, competing... Unlike in other games, it's actually more surprising when you run across another player out in the wild than it is to never see someone.

Sorry... how big is that again?
To put it into terms of distance and time, you'd need to sprint on the fastest possible horse for five years, never hitting the ocean or slow terrain, to go from one end of the map to the other.

How do I breed my horses?
You'll need a breeding barn, which is pretty easily done on your first day of adventuring.

I'm stuck!!!
Yeah, that happens a lot. Hitting the space bar while moving forward will typically get you unstuck from any tar pits, rainforest pits, sandstone crevices, mesa pits, super narrow fjord valleys, and probably a few other things that are slipping our minds right now. Fast traveling works if you're unable to spam space out of it, though.

I'm stranded!!!
This also happens a lot, where you've used up all your travel to go to some out of the way place! You can always explore until you get enough Travel back to return to civilization.

I'm too tired to pick this thing up?? Can I get more energy?
The game forces you to explore instead of constantly gathering resources. Even though resources are basically unlimited, we'd like you to get out and play the game instead of building your ranch up too quickly. The Energy bar (like the travel and focus bars) will refill completely over 24 hours if you leave it alone. Alternatively, you can toss 100 essence into a club's fountain to get your Travel, Focus, or Energy bars refilled by 10%.

How do I craft stuff?
Crafting tack and 'stuff' requires a ranch with a textile workshop, a crafting workshop, and a furnace (and the stuff you need to craft!)

4.D.2 How Do I Teleport?:
You can teleport to any club town (given you've got enough travel) by going to Clubs - List of All Known Clubs and selecting which you'd like to travel to.

You can teleport to any of your online buddies by clicking your Buddy List. You can teleport to any buddy's ranch if they're offline by viewing their profile. A player can also invite you to their location by using the %invitetome [PLAYERNAME] command, which allows you to teleport even if you're not a buddy.

4.D.3 Where Am I???:
You've likely just landed yourself into one of the club villages, the community centers that players have built. This can be a little disorienting!

What do I do?

First, you'll want to collect some Essence- the magic of the wilds that allows you to unlock equipment and chat globally. These are yellow orbs that bounce around almost everywhere. You'll find lots while exploring. How to get horses, tack, and a ranch are covered in the other parts of this Getting Started area, and covered even more in their own areas of the Help section.

Where is everyone?

Players are much more spread out in Infinite Wilds than what you're likely used to. The world size is incomprehensibly large, so many players are out and exploring!

Where are the arenas?

We don't have the traditional arenas of the other games. Instead, there are player made competitions, which can oftentimes be just as clever or tricky as the competitions you learned to love in the previous games.

Where are the towns?

Club Villages serve as the towns of this game. The good part is they offer all the services you'd expect and grow with the game world. You do not need to be a member of a club to use it's services. Just click on any building to access.

If I leave here, can I go back?

Your start point has been recorded in your Travel Journal, and you can visit it at any time (as long as you don't delete it!)

Is this club area the official one?
Nope! Any club with a welcome platform can be a starting zone. There are no 'beginner isles' here- you were randomly assigned this as a start point. All club towns are player owned, and there are no admin or 'official' club towns.

E) Ranch

4.E.1 Your First Ranch Parcel:
Unlike in the previous two games, you do not need to pay for a membership to gain the benefits of a ranch!

Because we'd like for ranches to be accessible to all, your first ranch is VERY inexpensive and you should be able to purchase it on the first day of playing.

Once you unlock your first parcel, you'll need to go up to Ranch - Manage Your Parcels and use the Homesteading tool to find available parcels. The amount of available parcels is very nearly limitless, so if you cannot find one immediately, don't give up!

A few things:

You can't build in a club region unless you're a Gold member or higher.
You can't build a parcel next to another player unless you're buddies with them (to prevent crowding.)
Some parcels are reserved for future use or have Epics (like obelisks or moai statues) or Cave entrances on them.
You can't build a parcel on certain areas with a low build space- places with a lot of water or in the ocean are probably not good to build on!

F) Tack

4.F.1 Your First Tack Set:
Tack can be more difficult than a horse to get ahold of, especially at the beginning of the game! If walking or getting bucked off constantly isn't your style, you can either craft a tack set (on your own ranch) or purchase a set from a player's club store.

5) Horses

A) Acquiring and Selling

5.A.1 Overview:
One of the first questions many new players to the game ask: How do I get a new horse?

Horse Isle has several ways of acquiring and selling horses, from selling to traders (which remove the horse from the game completely) to selling to other players. You may also lease a horse to or from another player!

Wild Horses have their own category in the Help Center.

5.A.2 How Auctions Work:
Club owners and managers can add Auction Houses to their club if they so desire. These will have a sign with a gavel on them and a wide door, so they are easily found.

For those new to the concept of an Auction:

An auction is a way of selling something for the highest possible price. One offers, or "bids," the amount one is willing to pay for the item, in this case, a horse. Other players may then make a higher bid if they choose. Bidding continues throughout the time the auction is scheduled to last. The horse is then sold to whomever has the highest bid at that time. You may bid as many times as you like during the auction, but once the auction is over, the horse is the property of the player whose bid was highest.

No player may try to stop any other player from bidding! The whole purpose of an auction is to sell a highly-desirable horse to the person who is willing to pay the most for it. By bidding and outbidding, the auctioneer finds out exactly who this person is and how much they are willing to pay. Auctions are anonymous. When you bid, it will tell you that you have the high bid- if you are outbid, it will not tell you who has outbid you. This prevents harassment.

5.A.3 Auction Listing:
Auction houses offer two kinds of listings.

Global Listing is for the general public. Anyone can list a horse here for auction. Horses here can be bid on my persons at any auction house, as Global Listings are shared across the Wilds.

Club Listing is for club members to list horses which will be for same only at that location. Anyone can bid on the horse, but they must come to that specific auction house to do so. Club listings are cheaper than Global listings.

It is extremely important to remember that once a horse is listed, you cannot get it back if it is sold. Any horse who receives no bids is not sold and is returned to you after the auction ends. But once a player has placed a bid for any amount over what you have specified as the minimum bid, the horse is no longer yours.

Any horse of yours listed in auction will have a yellow 'background' to its information on the auction list, making it easier for you to find your auctioned horses!

A horse must be listed as being for sale in its profile tags before it appears on the list of horses you can auction.

A player is limited to 25 auction listings at a time.

5.A.4 Using Auctions:
To bid on a horse, go to an auction house. All the horses currently for sale Globally and through that Club only will be listed.

To bid, Click on the Auction House itself and when the window comes up, click View. This will open another window which will list all the horses which are available for auction through that auction house.

Click on Look to see the horse.

The next window will give you information on the horse and allow you to View it. It will also show you the Minimum bid (the lowest amount the seller will accept), and the next highest bid you may offer (a raise of 10% or a doubling of 100%). Click on the bid you think most appropriate to the horse and your situation. You will be asked to confirm your bid. The amount of your bid will be subtracted from your gold dust balance (held in escrow, if you will).

Once a bid is placed, you CANNOT retract it! A warning that you have been outbid by someone will flash across the screen should that be the case. Any gold dust you bid will then be returned to you. At this point you may place a higher bid if you like, or you may drop out of the bidding.

If you have the high bid on a horse, the horse's auction listing will show up as light blue for you, so you can more easily keep track of what you're bidding on.

If you win an auction, the horse will be added to your Horses list.

5.A.5 Live Auctions:
Live Auctions are player made, typically on ranches designed and purchased for this purpose. They are not run or regulated by the server or game staff.

Asking if there are any Live Auctions running should be kept to Ads Chat- it is not appropriate to ask if any are going on in Global or Help Chat.

5.A.6 Experience Training:
Players may 'hire' others to Experience Train, or EXP train, their horses. This will often make things easier for someone who wants a fairly experienced horse but isn't able to be on to do it themselves, or perhaps might not feel they can earn a lot of experience due to other gameplay obligations (or something called 'real life' obligations...)

How to Set Up an EXP Training Contract:

This is done through trading. The horse owner may set the Experience they require of the trainer in this trade, and offer the gold dust or Mobia that the trainer will be paid. (You can only pick one type of payment, it can't be a mix.) You may set any EXP gain you wish along with the normal lease terms (the time you'd like it done in.)
Nothing else may be offered in a Training Contract trade. This keeps things nice and clear from the start.


The payment for the EXP training contract is held in escrow- or in one of our handy dandy magical Training Contract Vaults where nobody anywhere can touch it- until the lease is up. If the trainer only completes a percentage of the contract, they'll only get that percentage of payment. The rest will be refunded to the owner of the horse (this way nobody's getting paid more than they should be for work they didn't do!)
So if you set up a contract for 10,000exp and the trainer only completes 3,000exp, they'll get 30% of the payment for the effort they put in.

Reliability of Trainers

You can judge how reliable a trainer is by going to their player profile. Their 10 most recent EXP Contract details are shown there- how much the contract was for, how much they did, that sort of thing, which should help you pick your Perfect Trainer.

5.A.7 Horse Traders:
Every horse has a base value of how much it can be sold in-game, based on how much a trader is willing to pay for it. This will- hopefully- explain how the traders work and explain a bit how each of the persona and height traders work. Any prices or example prices listed do NOT include the Horse Trader library tome.

Trader Options

Each trader building in game has five options. The one at the top will always accept every horse for 200 gold dust. Every ordered horse has a base value of 15,000 gold dust, and the traders will purchase them for this PLUS whatever trader requirement they might fill.

The other trader options will always ask for one or two of the following:

Breedable- Must be able to breed.
Mare- Must be a mare over the age of four.
Stallion- Must be a stallion over the age of four.
Gelding- Must be gelded.
Filly- Must be a filly under the age of four.
Colt- Must be a colt under the age of four.
Over a certain age- Must be OVER the age listed.
Under a certain age- Must be UNDER the age listed.
Purebred- Must be PUREBRED, blood history doesn't matter.
Breed Required- Must be of a certain breed, doesn't need to be purebred. Will typically accept sub-breeds as well.
Wild Caught- Must not have been bred or ordered, but caught as a wild horse.
Born in Barn- Must not have been wild caught or ordered, but bred by a player.
Height at Most- Must be UNDER a specific height.
Height at Least- Must be OVER a specific height.

Those are mostly self-explanatory, but are listed for clarification. The persona traders are where it may get a little tricky!

Brave at least- Must be HIGHER than the specified amount.
Skittish at least- Must subtract number from 100.
Easygoing at least- Must be HIGHER than the specified amount.
Stubborn at least- Must subtract number from 100.
Follower at least- Must be HIGHER than the specified amount.
Leader at least- Must subtract number from 100.
Social at least- Must be HIGHER than the specified amount.
Antisocial at least- Must subtract number from 100.
Energetic at least- Must be HIGHER than the specified amount.
Lazy at least- Must subtract number from 100.

The word "must" not looking like a word anymore? We feel the same way!

So if a trader is looking for a Stubborn Leader (example: the You Spin Me Right Round trader,) the horse needs to have both the Stubborn and Leader traits under 30 for the trader to accept it, but the trader says both at least 70. So you'll need to subtract its persona traits from 100 to see if it matches the trader requirements!

It should also be noted that many traders will only take horses- they'll only take Donkeys, Zebras, and the various hybrids if it's specified. This is why the non-horse equine traders all pay the same rate as a grade horse trader and don't specify that they require bred equines.

Type - Personality - Born in Barn traders

These traders require a specific horse type and personality, while also requiring that the animal was born in a barn, not wild caught. This ensures higher breeding standards as well as rewarding hard work!
Hybrid traders of this type require that the animal be old enough to ride or pull a cart.

Horse Trader Index

With so many horse traders, it can be very hard to keep track of what club is offering what trader. To this, we offer players the Horse Trader Index. It is compiled daily by any player that LOOKS at a horse trader in a club- whatever traders that club is offering then goes to the global index for all players to view.

The Global Index is viewable on any Shopping Board and, for those who have it unlocked, the Newspaper. You can view which traders are available at various clubs, including their payout!

5.A.8 Leasing a Horse:
Leasing may be done by trading a horse with the LEASE option and selecting a time frame for the lease, the shortest being ten minutes, the longest being one month.

What can I do with a leased horse?
You may train, ride, compete with, and show a leased horse. You'll also be responsible for taking care of the horse while it's under lease! Any vet care and keeping the horse fed, watered, and happy is totally on you!

What can I NOT do to a leased horse?
A leased horse may not be sold at a trader, gelded, bred, traded, have tack or amulets removed, be renamed, or have any part of the profile modified. You also can't put it in a show pen or list it for sale at your store. A leased horse also cannot be registered as a notable ancestor or have a certification applied to it. A leased horse also cannot have the Favorite Human award applied to it by the person leasing it.

5.A.9 Mailing Horses:
You've Got (horse) Mail!

While horses cannot fit into an envelope (we tried,) you can ask the postmaster to reserve a horse for someone. It costs just as much to issue this request as it does to send a letter (100 gold dust) so don't worry about a lot of fees! This option is great for when you just cannot, for the life of you, catch a prospective pony purchaser online!

There are a few things to note, however.

1.) The postmaster doesn't have any stable space, so the horse will remain with you until purchase.
2.) You may offer a horse to multiple people at once- first one to accept is the 'winner!'
3.) Offers expire in five days. Once this time has passed, all the potential buyer of the horse will see is a sad little letter explaining that they were offered a horse, but the offer is no longer there.

The Sendoff

Once you've selected 'Offer a Horse,' you'll see a list of the horses you have listed as Want to Sell and Would Consider Selling.
Once you pick the pony you'd like to send off to a new owner, you can enter the amount of gold dust or mobia (or both) the horse is being sold for.

Please note that there is no "either or" option- if you list the horse for both gold dust AND mobia, the price will be for both!

B) Breeding

5.B.1 Considerations:
Always choose your breeding stock with care, as in this game there are a great many traits--nearly a hundred!--that can all be inherited to a greater or lesser extent. The less a horse meets your idea of perfection, the more disappointing your breeding results will be. Know what it is you want to breed for in advance, and choose only those mares and stallions who are already close to it as you can find.

In Horse Isle 3, the genes as far back as ALL grandparents are considered when assigning genes to a foal, and a trait not seen in either parent but present in a grandparent may crop up in a foal as a surprise. Keep this in mind when choosing your breeding stock (this includes ordered horses!) If you'd like to prevent grandparent genes from affecting your foal, an Adsimulo Amulet from the Shop in-game will only allow parent genes to affect your foal.

Inbreeding (breeding a horse to its own siblings or parents) can be done if you insist, but it is extremely likely to result in a large drop in intelligence for the foal.


Natural gestation in Horse Isle 3 takes a full seven days to complete, or 168 hours. Despite what the timer on the mare says, foals in Horse Isle have a bit of growth and time magic surrounding them- they're rather in a hurry to get out into the world and grow up! So even though the mare says she has 335 hours/in-game days, she really only has half of that.

5.B.2 Inheritance of Colors:

Within reason, and making some considerations for game mechanics, we have included here every color gene we could find as of the time of this writing (April 2019).

A little vocabulary first:

A gene is a section of DNA which contains the instructions for a trait. Animals have alleles ("al-EEL") for each gene-- one inherited from the mother, and one from the father.

Alleles can be the same, or can be different. If both are the same, the animal is said to be homozygous ("ho-mo-ZAI-guss") for that gene. If the alleles are different, the animal is heterozygous ("HET-er-o-ZAI-guss")for that gene.

If an allele always shows its effect no matter what the other allele is, it is said to be Dominant. If the effect is only shown when the animal is homozygous for it (when they are both the same), the allele is said to be Recessive. If an allele shows a little effect when heterozygous and a lot when homozygous, it is called a Partial Dominant.

Genes can affect other genes. A gene whose expression depends on that of another gene is said to be epistatic ("EP-ee-STAT-ick") to the other gene.

In genetic notation, a -- (usually an m-dash) means "any other allele, doesn't matter."

The actual genes are discussed in the Genetics section.

5.B.3 Inheritance of Traits:
For game purposes, we're defining "traits" as aspects of a horse's color or conformation which are not inherited from the action of known genes, and which can vary very widely, and on a continuum, in their expression. For example, "Leg Length" is a trait; legs may be short or long or anywhere in between. "Color shade" is also a trait; a chestnut can be liver, or red, or copper or golden and anything and everything in between. Dappling is also a trait with varying 'doses' of expression, from very strongly expressed to nearly invisible.

Foals' traits will usually be somewhere between those of their parents. A 16hh mare bred to a 14hh stallion are likely, but not guaranteed, to produce a foal around 15hh. But strange things do happen, so don't be overly surprised when they do!

On the other hand, if you have two horses who are perfect in every way but share the same conformational fault (e.g., swayback, sickle-hocks or the like), the foal is extremely likely to share that fault, and may even show it to a more extreme degree. It is always prudent to breed away from a fault in preference to breeding toward a desired trait.

5.B.4 Requirements:
In order to breed your horses, you will need to build a Breeding Barn on your ranch (which, of course, means you need a ranch), a mare and a stallion. It would also be prudent to make sure you have enough barn space for your new foal when it is born; the mares of Horse Isle are very particular about their barn slots and don't want to share after the foal is weaned at 111 days old (.3 years.)

Mom and dad also have to be in tip-top shape when you're planning on breeding them. They must be healthy, not hungry or thirsty, and be in a good mood. If they don't meet these requirements, the breeding just won't happen (but they'll tell you why they won't breed so you can fix it.)

Mares can breed from 4 years old to 20. Stallions can breed from 4 years old and then until they pass away.

5.B.5 Studding:
You may use another person's stud if they have that particular stud available in their store, or complete a Breeding trade.

Store Studding:
A store owner may choose to put their stallion up in their store for studding. He will stay in your store, taking up both a horse slot and a store slot. You cannot ride or compete with him at this time, and if you'd like to use him for breeding, you'll need to do so through your store. He'll still continue to age and require food and water, so keep an eye on him!
You can safely remove him from your store at any time and he'll continue his life like nothing happened. :)
A stud standing in a store will also have a counter of times used, letting you know how popular the stallion is.
You can also see the 20 cheapest stallions standing in a store at any Shopping board.

Breed Trading:
If you don't own a store or just don't want to have to bother with keeping a stallion up for stud, there's also the option of a Breed trade. This is a fairly simple process!
Click "Trade" like you'd offer up an item and hit "Breeding."
Player A offers up a single mare and the (previously agreed upon) stud fee.
Player B offers up their stallion.
Both players accept the trade if they think it's fair and neither horse leaves the account- the breeding is completed on the spot and the mare will become pregnant.

Each player may only offer ONE horse up in a breeding trade (so no trying to get seven mares bred at once! ;) ) There's no limit to how many breeding trades a player may complete.

5.B.6 The Foal:
Your foal will share barn space with its mom until it's gone from Suckling to Foal (Colt or Filly.) While they're living with mom, they'll never get hungry or thirsty, as she provides them everything they need.
Adorably, if you have your mare in a showpen or pasture while the foal is nursing, they'll stand right next to her!

Rarely, your mare will have twins. This is very special and a mare will always deliver her twins safely in the lands of Horse Isle.

It's recommended that you always have space ready for any foals that will age up, or you'll go over your horse limit when they do and your horses will NOT be happy about the lack of barn space! Your Energy and Travel will also get a penalty hit until you reduce the number of horses you have. It's good to plan ahead!

A foal cannot be separated by any means from its mother until it is no longer suckling and its protective status has left it, at about 113 game days old.

Foal Aging

Horse Isle is a magical land of growth and renewal happening very quickly; trees regrow even after they're cut and entire gardens grow in a matter of hours!

Curiously, this magical affect also extends to the foals born in it. Instead of the year long pregnancies a mare experiences in other lands, it's halved, and foals grow twice as fast in Horse Isle than they do in any other lands, magical or no. They continue this amazing growth until they're exactly four years old, and the growth magic fades away.

Providing a pregnant mare with a Gravida Amulet will speed her pregnancy along even further- in just over two real life days, she'll foal safely. (Approximately 2.3 days.)

Providing a foal with a Geminus Amulet will surround the foal with MORE of the world's mysterious growth magic, allowing them to go from birth to adulthood in just over a week (9.3 days, if you're curious.) After they hit adulthood with the amulet on, they'll still age three times faster than they would without the amulet, so time it carefully!

A foal will get their mane in just a few short months if they've a long one; shorter manes or maneless won't become apparent until they're nearly a year old.

5.B.7 Performance Metrics:
An important thing to consider when breeding are the Performance Metrics of a horse. A Connemara and a Thoroughbred might both have a base genetic stat of 500, but the Thoroughbred will perform better simply because of its conformation and genetic traits. While we touched on that a bit in Inheritance of Traits, we'll cover them a bit more in this section. Keep in mind that while you can train a horse to improve them individually, in the long run it's better to breed for horses with better metrics.

While all stats are important, your horse's performance metrics will tell you how well they utilise training and genetic stats. These are influenced by their conformation and their genetics. There are also conformation penalties, like big horses taking speed hits! We've also listed what you can train a horse in to improve these traits. Training does not have an effect on the foal!

Positive Traits - these are in blue on your horse's profile.

Speed - How fast a horse will go. (Speed)
Sprint Boost - How much of a speed bonus a horse gets while sprinting- doesn't last long! (Speed)
Accell Rate - How quickly a horse can get up to max speed. (Speed, Agility, Strength)
Decel Rate - How quickly a horse can slow down. (Very important when you're trying to take a big jump or avoid a rainforest pit!) (Speed, Agility)
Jump Power - How high AND far a horse can jump. A horse with a low jump power will land you IN a crevice instead of over it! (Strength, Agility)
Pull Strength - How many full sleds a horse can pull before they just cannot pull anymore. Draft horses are king here! (Strength)
Stride Length - Measures how much ground a SINGLE leg covers. Very important for speed and turning! A horse with longer legs can move faster.
Turning Speed - How narrow a turn angle a horse can make. (Agility)
Reverse Speed - Measures how quickly a horse backs up. (Agility, Speed)
Fear Tolerance - Measures how far a horse will go into scary situations and is measured by the Bravery personality stat. It's helpful to have a high fear tolerance so they don't get scared silly by everyday things. (Intelligence)

Negative Traits - these are in red on your horse's profile.

Stamina Drop - Determines how quickly a horse loses stamina while riding, sprinting, and jumping. (Endurance)
Reaction Time - Determines how quickly a horse picks up on the cues you've given them. (Intelligence, Agility)

For more in-depth information about base stats and their implications, please read the Performance Metrics guide in Horses forum:

5.B.8 Gelding:
Gelding a stallion will give a personality boost in the Follower stat by 10%, and Easygoing by 10%.

Geldings also have a slightly longer lifespan than their stallion counterparts.

A stallion may be gelded at the age of 4 (breeding age) at any Veterinarian for a fee.

Gelding is permanent. You cannot get your stallion un-gelded, so be sure you really wish to geld him!

5.B.9 Surrogacy:
Really want a foal out of a mare you don't own and want to use your own stud? You can do a Surrogacy breeding trade in which the mare's owner sets a fee for the use of their mare.

The foal will be owned by the stud's owner, rather than that of the dam- as soon as the foal is born, it is transferred to the stud's owner and will be listed as nursing until it's weaned.

And no worries! The foal will find a nanny mare in the stud owner's herd, so they'll get all the nutrition they need :)

To complete a Surrogacy trade, BOTH horse owners must select Surrogacy during the trade.

To see which of your mares is currently being used in a Surrogacy trade, click "Show Surrogacy Contracts" at the bottom of your horse list.

NOTE: Surrogacy will never result in twins, as the price is just for one foal. Even if both players have Double Bubble as a specialty, this remains the case :)

5.B.10 Breeding Amulets:
these are objects that, when worn by one or both parents at conception, affect the resulting foal. This means that you must put the amulet on the parents before you breed them to each other. You can do so via the horse's Tack page.

These amulets affect the traits and genes of the foal. However, there are some caveats.

What amulets DON'T do:
While amulets affect the appearance and stats of the foal, there are three things that amulets can't do:

1) They DON'T increase the chances for somatic mutations.
Mosaic, bleach, bend-or, flash, tetrach, bird-catcher spots, and reverse dappling, are all random mutations that can rarely crop up in horses, regardless of whether or not their parents have these mutations.

Amulets can't affect the chances of a foal to be born with these somatic mutations.

2) They DON'T guarantee particular patterns/markings.
Above a certain threshold, markings and pinto/appaloosa patterns have a random component that amulets can't access.

Furthermore, some patterns (like 'appaloosa' patterns and tobiano) are affected by whether the horse is heterozygous or homozygous to certain genes on which amulets don't directly control.

As such, amulets can't guarantee that the foal will have a specific pattern or markings, even if both of their parents have it.

3) They DON'T guarantee better/similar performance metrics.
While the amulets affect the foal's conformation and their genetic base-stats, and while performance metrics are affected by said conformation and stats, the metrics themselves are not genetic and not hereditary.

This means that breeding amulets can't guarantee that the foals will have metrics better than, or like, those of their parents.

[For more info about the inheritance of performance metrics, see: Help > Horses > Heredity > Inheritance of performance metrics.]

So what DO amulets do?
Amulets affect all of the genetic traits that exist in the game, from traits that control conformation to traits that control base-stats. The nature of the effect depends on the amulet.

Adsimulo - the Spell of Similar
Adsimulo prevents the foal from falling outside their parents' range of traits. Personality, conformation, and all other genetic traits, will stay between those of their Mom and Dad. In other words, no random mutations, and no surprising traits from four generations back.

Generally, the more similar the parents are trait-wise, the more similar the foal will be to them. That said, due to how different traits combine, every foal will still be different.

When it comes to performance metrics and genetic stats, if the parents have nearly identical conformation and stats, then the foal is likely to be born with similar metrics and stats. However, if one or more relevant traits are different, this chance is a goner.

For example:
Two parents have genetic stats of 1,000 and natural jumping ability of 5.40m, but differ in their genetic stats. The sire is strong but has low agility, and the dam is very agile but of average strength.

Even if we use adsimulo, if their foal inherits his sire's low agility and his dam's average strength, then even though the foal's traits remained within the range of its parents, its genetic stats will be far lower than his parents' as well as its jumping ability.

Transmutatio - the Magic of Mutations
Transmutatio does the opposite of what an Adsimulo does in that it can wildly change the outcome of a breeding...

This amulet creates a sort of genetic chaos in foals. It randomly changes traits to any degree it sees fit, from something subtle like a slightly wider muzzle to something dramatic like stubby legs.

Transmutatio can also affect genes! It can give foals alleles, and thus coat colors, that are not allowed in their breed! Yes, this amulet is that chaotic. To get really conformationally wonky foals, we encourage you to breed horses that look extremely different to each other.

Last tips for the road:
You can purchase the amulets in the Shop for 1,000 mobia (10 USD) per amulet. Once you purchase the amulet, you can reuse it infinitely. Just remove it from your horse after you breed them and put it on the next horse.

1) Double up!
Putting the amulet on the dam and sire will double the effect. In the case of Adsimulo, reduce the variation in foals by half, and in the case of Transmutio, double the strength of the amulet's effect.

2) Ensure your mare has her amulet.
Following a breeding, the mare will immediately take the amulet off like an itchy sweater. That's why you'll have to equip her with the amulet before the next time you breed her.
(Luckily, stallions are much more comfortable with the amulet on and won't take it off after breeding.)

3) Use the Gravida amulet for ultra-fast results!
This special amulet is worn only by the mare. It utilizes the growth magic naturally present in Horse Isle to speed up a mare's gestation for the entire time it is worn. Rather than waiting a whole week, you'll get to see your mare's foal in 2.7 days! This amulet doesn't affect the foal, but simply allows a mare to be more productive over her lifetime. Removing the amulet will let the mare foal at a natural speed.

To sum up, breeding for the perfect foal can be complicated. We hope these amulets (adsimulo, transmutation, and gravida) will make breeding easier, faster, and more predictable (or less predictable in the case of Transmutation). :)

[For more info about traits, see full lists under the Help > Horses > Genetics section.]

5.B.11 4Yo and 0Yo: their importance in breeding:
On the profile page of every horse, you'll find a 4Yo and a 0Yo button, both of which are useful when breeding horses or picking a breeding stock.

4Yo: a must to look at
When choosing a stallion or a surrogate mare, it's always better to look at their 4Yo profile rather than their regular profile.

Why? Because the 4Yo page shows the horse's natural performance metrics & base stats, without bonuses such as tack, training, bond, experience, etc., taken into account. It also shows the horse without tack and without hair styling, thus allowing you to see their natural, mature conformation in its entirety.

This means that the 4Yo view allows you to see the conformation which their offspring are likely to inherit, and what their offspring performance metrics might be close to, within breeding restrictions. This last bit is tricky, so remember to read about the Inheritance of Performance Metrics and the Inheritance of Conformation (both under Horses > Breeding) for more info.

0Yo: important for picking foals
Breeding-wise, the 0Yo button is geared towards hardcore players who strive to develop a way to predict a foal's future potential. You can see it as a mimic to looking at a foal in real life, and based on their movement, jumping style, and personality, trying to predict what kind of horse they will make.

By comparing the 0Yo view to the 4Yo view of various horses, you can get an idea of how foals mature performance-metrics-wise. This knowledge will then allow you to look at foals, who don't have a 4Yo view yet, and estimate whether you should keep/buy/sell them based on your needs. :)

That said, remember that this will be an estimate, so don't get too disappointed if the foal matures into a completely different horse than you expected. ;)

5.B.12 Parentage:
Just like with real-life breed registries, some horse breeds in Horse Isle have a specific set of rules which specifies which breeds can they be created from. These rules are called "parentage requirements".

What are parentage requirements exactly?
Parentage requirements mean which breed combinations can create the breed that you are after.

Most breeds in Horse Isle don't have parentage requirements, meaning that you can cross any horses you want, including grade horses, and still get the breed in question. Some breeds, however, have specific requirements, e.g. you must cross breed A with breed B to get breed C.

When breeding for a particular breed, you must adhere to their parentage requirements.

Where to find and how to read these requirements:
Each breed has its parentage requirements detailed under the Technical Details tab at the bottom of their page in the Big Book of Breeds (BBB). It is constructed in the following way:
First Parent (a.k.a parent A) - a list of breeds that parent A must be one of.
Second Parent (a.k.a parent B) - a list of breeds that parent B must be one of.

There are three types of parentage requirements:
1) Any - This type is equivalent to "none" because there isn't a specific parentage requirement, meaning that the parents can be of any breed. In the BBB, this appears as "no breed requirements".

2) Parent A - One parent must be of a specific breed while the other parent can be anything. The BBB will list the required breeds for the first parent (parent A) only and will state "no breed requirements" for the second parent.

3) Both Parents - Both parent A and parent B must be of specific breeds, usually of different breeds. The BBB will list the breeds that these parents can be.

"Both parents can be of breed X" - This means that if you cross a stallion of breed X with a mare of breed X, then you can get a foal of breed X. Note that:
1] If one or both parents don't have breed X listed for them, and it is not specified that both parents can be of breed X, then by crossing two horses of breed X you'll actually break breed X's parentage requirements.

2] The fact that both parents can be of breed X doesn't mean that you can crossbreed X with one of the breeds that appear in the list of parent A or parent B, and still get breed X. Crossbreeding is never allowed, unless the breeds that you want to cross, including breed X, are specifically listed for parent A or B.

Why is it important, again?
If a breed has parentage rules of either "Parent A" or "Both Parents", it means that you must adhere to these rules in order to breed horses of that breed.

However, if a breed doesn't have specific parentage rules--meaning that both parents can be "any"--then you can use any horses you want in order to create the breed that you are after.

Parentage vs. purebreeding:
In short, parentage requirements have nothing to do with purebreeding requirements, and a foal can have the correct breeds as parents but still be born 0% pure. If you want to know more, then please read the help topic below about purebreeding.

For detailed examples of how to read and use parentage requirements, read the guide about parentage, purebreeding, and the BBB in Horses forum:

5.B.13 Purebreeding:
Purebreeding, in regards to horses, is the practice of crossing horses of verified origins, lineages, or breeds, in order to receive foals who can continue the lineage. It is a common practice among real horse breeders/associations, and therefore plays a role in Horse Isle as well.

Purebreeding and the Big Book of Breeds (BBB):
Practically speaking, in order to pure breed a horse, you must adhere to the purebreeding rules of the horse's breed. These rules are listed under the Technical Details tab at the bottom of their page in the BBB. Basically, the horse's parents must be of breeds that appear in the purebreeding requirements in order for their foal to have some level of purity.

Purebreeding is measured in percentages:
There are six purity levels:
0% = non-pure
20%, 40%,60%, 80% = partially pure, where the higher the percentage the purer the horse.
100% = fully purebred (will have a [PUREBRED] tag on profile).

If both of the horse's parents are of breeds listed in the purebreeding requirements of the horse's breed, then the horse's purity will be calculated as follows:
20 + [purity % of the parent with the lowest purity] = purity % of the foal

For example: if parent A is a purebred (100% purity) Thoroughbred, and parent B is a 40% pure Thoroughbred, then the foal will be a 60% pure (20% + 40% = 60%).

If done successfully, you can get a purebred stock out of 0% pure stock within five generations. However, if one or both of the horse's parents break the purebreeding requirements of the horse's breed, then the horse will be 0% pure.

How to get a pure foal of the breed that you want?
First, you must be familiar with the concept of parentage. If you are unfamiliar with this, then please read the help topic above about Parentage.

Step 1 - Go to a library > Big Book of Breeds > Open the info about the breed that you want > Open Technical Details at the bottom.
Step 2 - Read the parentage requirements, and while reading write down parentage requirement for parent A and for parent B.
Step 3 - Read the purebreeding requirements and circle for parent A the breeds that appear both for Parent A and in the purebreeding list. Parent A must be one of the breeds you just marked.
Step 4 - Do the same for parent B: mark which of the breeds that parent B can be also appear in the purebreeding list. Parent B must be one of the breeds you just marked.
Step 5 - Use only the breeds in the list you made, because they guarantee correct parentage + 100% chance of getting a pure foal (meaning a foal who is between 20% and 100% pure, depending on the purity of the parents)

Good luck! :)

For detailed examples of how to read and use purebreeding and parentage requirements, read the guide about parentage, purebreeding, and the BBB in Horses forum:

5.B.14 Crossbreeding:
you will see this term a lot in Horse Isle. So, what is it all about?

Crossbreeding is the act of breeding two horses of different types, OR two horses of different breeds even if both breeds are of the same type.

This breeding strategy has been used for thousands of years to create new breeds, but it became particularly famous in the 20th and 21st centuries that saw a lot of crossbreeds.

Crossbreeds are breeds that are created by crossing specific breeds to create a hybrid of these breeds. For example:
-- Arabo-Friesian is created by crossing an Arabian with a Friesian.
-- Anglo-Arab is created by crossing an Arabian with a Thoroughbred.
-- Appendix Quarter Horse is created by crossing a Thoroughbred with an American Quarter Horse.

As popular as crossbreeding is in the real world, in Horse Isle it is a bit trickier.

Should I crossbreed in Horse Isle?
Depends on your goals.

If you don't really care about the breed or purity of the foal, then yes, crossbreeding is the best way to go. Why? Because if you choose the parents correctly, then crossbreeding is the best and fastest way to combine good qualities from different breeds into a single horse.

However, crossbreeding also has some major disadvantages, especially if you aim for a particular (non-cross)breed:

1) Foals might inherit bad qualities from both parents. This is particularly important when picking parents with vastly different traits.

For example:
-- If you cross a horse of huge size and huge hooves with a horse of tiny size and tiny hooves, you might end up with a foal that has a huge body but tiny hooves.
-- Similarly, if you cross a horse with high agility and low speed with a horse with low agility and high speed, you might get a foal with low agility and low speed.

2) Foals might end up as grade horses. This is often because their conformation won't match the standard for any breed, including the standard of their parent breeds

3) Unexpected results. Even with an adsimulo amulet used, you can never estimate which foal you will get with the same accuracy as with crossing horses of the same breed.

4) Purity might be reset to 0. The breeding settings of most breeds in Horse Isle take bloodlines very seriously (as do their breed registries), and won't consider the foals to be "pure" if the breed of one of their parents is different from the breed of the foal.

Closing thoughts:

As a whole, unless you aim at an official crossbreed, or unless you don't care about the foal's breed and purity altogether (which is perfectly fine, by the way!), it is not recommended to cross breeds in Horse Isle.

If you are breeding for a breed that is not an official crossbreed, and are still interested in crossbreeding, then:
1) Aim at crossing breeds that look somewhat the same.
2) Check parentage and purity restrictions under the technical details in the BBB intro of the breed you desire, to make sure you won't end up with a grade foal and that the foal can be pure.

For more information, read the following guides in Breeding forum:

-- Intermediate guide: How do parentage, pure-breeding, and studbooks work in HI3?:

-- Advanced Breeding Guide: parentage, purebreeding, and the BBB:

5.B.15 Creating a breed from scratch:
In Horse Isle, it is possible to create breeds from scratch, meaning to create a breed out of a wild or grade stock, in an identical manner to how most real horse breeds were created throughout history.

Wait, what again?
Most horse breeds existing today were created hundreds of years ago. This was done by generations of breeders who took horses of various types--including random, feral horses--and used selective breeding to breed them into the breeds which we know today.

In Horse Isle you can do the same, meaning to capture a stock of wild horses and selectively breed them until you get one of the hundreds available breeds in the game.

Prior knowledge
Creating a breed from scratch is extremely advanced, and requires knowledge about how breeds and breed standards work in the game. Therefore, make sure to read the following help topics:

Breed standards and penalties (under 'types of horses'):



Which breeds can be created from scratch?
Any breed that doesn't have parentage rules can be created from scratch. To check if the breed you want to create has parentage rules, go to:

A library (found in most club towns) > Big Book of Breeds > Click on the breed in question > Scroll down and open the 'Technical Details'.

If the breed has "no parentage requirements" for both parents, then it can be created directly from scratch. If not, then you'll need to create the parents' breeds first.

How can I tell if I get closer to my target breed?
The easiest way to tell whether you are getting closer to your goal and which horses to keep in your breeding program is by comparing your horses against the target breed. To do this, go to:

A horse expert (found in most club towns) > report on specific breed vs horse > pick the horse and then pick the target breed.

Copy the results of the report! (Simply right-click it to auto-copy it, and either paste it to your horse's profile or an outside document.) This will allow you to compare the test results of different horses.

Pay a close attention to the penalties listed, and cross horses who have different penalties to maximize the chances for a proper foal.

Good luck! :D

C) Care

5.C.1 Overview:
General Info:

Training Age: You may begin training a horse immediately after birth. This helps to have a well trained horse when you're able to ride them, especially with some of the more rotten personalities ;)

Riding Age: A horse becomes rideable at 2 years old. You may begin competing them at this age, as well.

Breeding Age: A horse becomes breedable at 4 years old. Note that their age in days must say 1,460 or more! A mare can no longer breed when she's 20; a stallion can breed for his entire life.

5.C.2 Feed:
You can feed any placed horse by clicking Inventory -> Horse Feed and selecting the specific item you want to feed. Some things are more filling than others, so keep an eye on the Hunger stats to see what fills your horse up best. Horses will graze on their own if they are left standing on a grassy area.

If you have a ranch, you can feed all of your horses at once. Building Hay Fields will provide harvestable hay once every three or four real days. Stagger your building of hay fields (build one or two a day for three or four days) so you can be sure of a continuous supply. You can build a Hay Shed to store hay, but once a bale is put in the shed, you can't take it out again (and add it to your inventory), only click on it to feed your horses. Clicking "Feed" on a bale in the hay shed will feed all your horses. A Hay Shed holds seven bales of hay.

5.C.3 Watering:
There are a number of ways you can keep your horse hydrated. If you ride up to a lake or river, your horse will drink on its own. Just be aware to make sure that you leave your horse by clear, clean water! Water with algae, swamp grass or other impurities may make your horse quite ill, requiring veterinary attention.

You can build wells, water towers and water troughs on your ranch. You can use ranch wells, rivers and lakes, and club fountains to fill water buckets that you can use to water your horses wherever you happen to be.

Wells will fill a bucket at a time for you. Water towers will water every horse you have at once. For water troughs, you simply need to leave your horse in front of it like you would a river or lake and they'll do the rest! (You really CAN lead a horse to water and make him drink... at least in Horse Isle.)

5.C.4 Treats:
Treats can raise a horses mood, especially if you give them a treat they really enjoy.

You can give a horse a treat by using it from inventory, and then offering it to the horse by holding down the left mouse button. They will let you know what they think of your concoction.

A horse has very select tastes- every horse has four favorite flavors and two they do not like one bit.

5.C.5 Crafting Treats:
In the Infinite Wilds, you can craft your own treats. These can be made from berries, grains, fruits and vegetables. These items are assigned one of eleven basic flavors, and one combines three to five of these flavors to create a treat. Treat creation costs a base Effort cost of 100 per treat.

To craft a treat, click on your Ranch House or Club House, and choose Make Treats. A list will appear with all the ingredients you have on hand, and which of the basic flavors each has. Click ADD to put between three and five of them into the treat, and then, scroll back to the top and click MAKE. The treat will be added to your inventory. You also have the option to "Make Again" so you're not scrolling through, wondering what treat you just made :)

If you give a treat that has all four of their favorite flavors, and none that the horse hates you will achieve the one-time "Favorite Human Award" from that horse, along with a bond bonus. Only the owner of a horse can be a horse's Favorite Human, not a lessee or random player passing out treats. If the horse is sold, the new owner will be able to receive the Favorite Human award, their allegiance changing as their ownership did! The notification in this instance will say "Different Favorite Human!"

5.C.6 Injuries:
Anyone who owns horses in real life can tell you, horses have a knack for finding new and bewildering ways to acquire injuries, minor and major. While the magic of the Infinite Wilds protects them from major mishaps, minor injuries requiring the attention of a veterinarian do happen. You cannot ride or breed an injured or sick horse- you'll need to take them to a vet in any Club Village.

Injury factors:
Riding on dangerous terrain (steep cliffs, slippery surfaces, rough gravel, jumping down a volcano.)
Riding a very tired horse.
Riding at high speed, will also up the chance of a horse injuring itself.
Horses with a lack of intelligence are prone to certain injuries.
Riding at night can increase injury odds.
Too hot/too cold/too humid/too dry can all increase odds of injury as well.
Drinking from a dirty water supply (tar pits, swamps, taiga bogs) can get your horse very sick!

Should a horse become injured, take it to the nearest Club Village for veterinary attention. It doesn't matter which one you go to, they all charge the same.

A Salus Amulet will prevent your horse from injuring itself or getting sick from dirty water. You can also get a Preventative Checkup at any vet to prevent your horse from getting an injury- just... don't run into cacti, that'll still cause your horse to buck you off.

Additionally a well-experienced horse will find out ways to prevent random injuries, having learned the ways of Horse Isle that they don't hurt themselves because they looked at a herdmate funny (or bit themselves.)

5.C.7 Mood:
Every horse in Horse Isle has a mood bar (seen only by the owner.) This can be raised or lowered depending on their care- if you're negligent, you're going to have a stable full of ornery horses.

You can increase a horse's mood by grooming (which you can do by unlocking the Brush in the Equipment Menu) or petting. Horses gain a much higher mood boost from petting than they do grooming! Horses also really enjoy getting treats, which will make them very happy (especially if they're made of their favorite things!)

If a horse is in too bad a mood to breed, just groom them to make them happier.

5.C.8 Whistling:
Sometimes, you'll find yourself having wandered rather far away from your horse. Rather than simply walking back up to the horse, you can whistle to them to have them come find you. Hitting the F button will alert your horse that you'd like them to come to you and even go around other horses or objects to come to you... with a few exceptions!

-An intelligent horse with a high bond and experience will always come (5,000 bond or 5,000 experience.) A horse that potentially needs more intelligence training will have a harder time finding a path to you.

-Stubborn, lazy, and leader horses will be harder to call if their personality trait is under 25%.

-Donkeys and zebras (and their hybrids) that are untrained will be a lot more stubborn or persnickety and will refuse to come about 50% of the time.

-A tired mount will be slower to come to you than one that's fully rested.

You can only whistle for your horse every ten seconds, and strangely enough, nobody around you can hear when you whistle.

Even newborn foals may be whistled for, for those that have a strong desire to hear little hoofbeats trotting towards them!

5.C.9 Roaming:
There's nothing cooler than seeing your horses run and play with other horses! In Horse Isle, you can use SHIFT+Z and hit the 'lock' in the trick wheel to tell your horse to run free. They will roam up to 100m away from you and run, annoy other horses, run away from other horses... all depending on their personalities.

A very social horse will seek out other horses to hang out with (even going so far as to chase an antisocial horse!) and a group of social horses can often be seen hanging out in a group or even playing as they track each other down.

You can keep track of your horse's location on the dynamic minimap up in the corner of your game screen.

D) Genetics

5.D.1 Overview:
Genetics are, essentially, what makes a being what it is. From plants to fungi to everything in between, everything has genetics.

Using the knowledge of genetics can really help improve your breeding program and impress your friends (or annoy them when you explain white horses do exist and to please stop perpetuating the myth.) Hopefully, the pages we've compiled here will help you better understand how our horse genetics work!

5.D.2 Genes vs. Traits:
'Genes' and 'Traits' are two genetic mechanisms that determine the expression and inheritance of various characteristics.

Genes determine binary characteristics, meaning whether or not a certain characteristic takes place or not. This is done by alleles, where every allele is linked to a single, specific characteristic. The alleles of every gene can be identified via genetic tests.

For example: the Champagne gene has two alleles:
- Allele Ch gives the horse a champagne color.
- Allele ch doesn't affect the horse's coat.
You can check if a horse carries the champagne Ch allele by performing a genetic test on the horse (via the horse expert.)

Traits are not "made" of alleles, but are merely numerical values that determines the phenotypic aspect which is controlled by the trait. Some traits affect the color and pattern of the coat, while others affect conformation and base stats. In all cases, these traits are non-binary (contrary to genes) and range from 0 to 1.

For example, the exact shade of a coat, the strength of a dappling pattern, and the length of the legs are all numerical, non-binary traits on a scale from min (0) to max (1).

The numerical values of all of the traits are 'invisible', and cannot be identified via genetic testing. In other words, you can't run a genetic test in order to tell the numerical trait of your horse. This is similar to real life, where you can't run a genetic test to identify all of the genes that determine the length of a horse's legs.

Traits do have a genetic component, meaning that foals will usually be born within the trait ranges of their parents (unless they mutate out of the range, which is rare but happens).

5.D.3 How do genes work?:
We've gone through an awful lot of trouble to keep the genetics of color as true to life and current knowledge, given the way the game works, as possible. We've had to make a few simplifications (genetics is never as simple as it looks!), and we've added a few things as genes when, in fact, their actual genetics is unknown or poorly understood at this time, because we know how much players like to breed for them.

As in life, horses always have two alleles for each gene, one from each parent. Which allele a parent gives its offspring is entirely random. With a few exceptions, you can't know exactly what you're going to get from a cross, but you can figure out the probability!

If you know your horse's alleles (you can get the Horse Expert in the club villages to tell you, for a Mobia fee), you can find out the odds of one result or another. For example:

>> If one parent is ee and one parent is EE, all offspring will be Ee, because one parent can only give E and the other only e.

>> If one parent is ee and one parent is Ee, about half the offspring will be Ee, and the other half ee.

>> If both parents are Ee, about half the offspring will be Ee, one quarter will be EE, and the other quarter ee.

This is true for all genes and their associated alleles. Alleles undergo what is called "independent assortment," and, except under extraordinary circumstances, the alleles of any gene are inherited independently of the alleles of all the others.

5.D.4 What genes do we have?:
We have a great number of color genes for you to play with! Here's a short overview of what they all do. (Remember, all horses have all these genes; but usually, they have alleles which do nothing.)

Agouti. Agouti alleles determine whether a horse will have black pigment all over its body, or just on its points. One allele allows the black-and-tan version of Seal Brown.

Brindle. In the real world, there are several ways to arrive at a brindle horse; some which are genetically controlled and some which aren't. Since some players love to breed brindles, we've included Brindle as a homozygous recessive brbr.

Champagne. Champagne is a simple dominant which changes black pigment to brown, and red pigment to golden, in both skin and hair. Champagne horses usually have amber or hazel eyes.

Cream and Pearl. Alleles here produce the Palomino, Buckskin, Cremello, Perlino and Pearl colors.

Curly. At least two genetic mechanisms are known to give rise to a curly coat. We've chosen to use a mechanism of partial dominance; ClCl is the wiry, "Brillo Pad" curly, Clcl is the usual curly one sees, and clcl is not curly at all.

Dun. The dun gene has alleles which cause the dun effect (stripes and pale body), and the linebacked effect (stripes but no lightening of the coat).

Extension. Alleles of this gene, simply put, determine whether of not a horse can produce black pigment in its hair.

Feather. Unlocks feathering in horses.

Flaxen. The homozygous recessive alleles flfl cause the mane and tail to be a light blond color, often with darker tips.

Frame. The Frame (also called "frame overo" or just "overo") gene has an allele which causes white faces and white spots on the side of a horse. This is a dominant allele; but since FF produces Lethal White syndrome, all the Frame horses in the Infinite Wilds are heterozygous.

Gait-Keeper. The Am allele here results in gaited horses who amble and pace.

Grey. Horses carrying the Grey allele, G, visibly lighten as they age. Some turn completely white. Homozygous greys typically lighten faster and more completely than heterozygous greys.

Hair Type. This refers to the mane and tail, which may be silky, coarse, wavy, or several other textures.

Leopard. This gene has an allele, L, which, when heterozygous, results in a spotted (appaloosa) horse, and non-spotted or "few spot" horse when homozygous. ll horses are not appaloosa spotted.

Manchado. This interesting spotting pattern from Argentina (and Wales!) causes white areas starting on the topline when homozygous recessive mama. This allele is extremely rare!

Metallic. No one has yet pinpointed the gene that controls the hair structure that gives Central Asian horse breeds their metallic sheen, but we've included it here as a partially dominant, but rare, gene.

Mushroom. The mushroom gene is strongly suspected to be a homozygous recessive, though the actual gene has not yet been identified. It changes red pigment to a flat grey which can be nearly black or quite pale.

Pangare. The dominant allele Pg lightens areas where the skin is extremely stretchy.

Rabicano. The exact genetics of Rabicano is unknown; in the game, the homozygous recessive rbrb produces white striping on the flanks.

Roan. The dominant allele Rn produces variable amounts of white hairs intermixed with colored ones, especially on the back and haunches; but always leaving the face dark.

Sabino. Multiple patterns in horses are labeled "sabino," but what we have included here is "Sabino-1." The dominant allele Sb causes plenty of white on the face, legs and sometimes on the belly and barrel.

Silver, a.k.a. Silver Dapple. The dominant allele Z lightens black pigment to varying degrees, resulting in pale manes, tails and points on bay, brown and black horses.

Sooty. There may not actually be a sooty gene in real horses, but we've included one here because it gives a counter-shading effect that many players find very attractive. We have made the allele a partial dominant, Sty, so that heterozygous horses are not as sooty as homozygotes. Some are dappled!

Splashed White. The dominant allele Sw causes white areas on horses which are similar to the typical white markings of cats and dogs. In real life there are, as of this writing, 5 known variants of splash. We've used Splash-1 here, as it's the fanciest.

Tobiano. The dominant allele T causes the common pinto pattern which looks like white paint poured on the horse from above.

White and White Spotted. At the time of this writing, the White (formerly called "Dominant White") gene has 27 known alleles! We decided to simplify things. In the game, the white allele W produces horses who are entirely white. White Spotted, which we made a separate gene, produces horses with varying amounts of white from very little to almost pure white.

Rare Genetic Types

Some of our rare patterns (defined by the RarePatn gene) are genetic and require VERY specific breeding to acquire, but they're not random like the above! The genes below are either hard to trace or unknown as of July 2019... so we made some up.

Gulastra Plume. This light colored tail on a bay horse was made famous after the chestnut Arabian stallion, Gulastra, passed it on to many of his get despite having a normal tail, himself. The odd, rare pattern can be found in any horse breed, however, and isn't just limited to Arabians! (This requires RarePtn and glpglp to express.)

Dark Mane and Tail. Some of your grey horses may retain a dark mane and tail should they be lucky enough to inherit the genes required for this! (This requires RarePatn and dmtdmt to express.)

Grey Mane and Tail. On a dark enough horse, this might appear to be silver... but we assure you, this localized greying only effects the mane and tail parts of the horse and will cause them to grey out. (This requires RarePatn and gmtgmt to express.)

5.D.5 What color and pattern traits do we have?:
Color/pattern traits are inheritable, which means that parents who have these traits can pass them on to their offspring. There traits are:

Appaloosa Traits. These traits, called AppyBlanket and AppySpots, together with the Leopard and genes, control the exact appearance of 'appaloosa' coats in leopard horses. The effect of these traits is visible only in horses who carry the leopard L allele.

Belton. Belton is the name for small, roundish areas of color which appear in the white areas of horses with markings or with a pinto coat. The effect can range from a few small dots to numerous dots similar to the pattern found in German Shorthair Pointer dogs.

Dapple. Dapples are slightly lighter spots to the rest of the coat, although in rare cases the pattern can be reversed with the spots being darker than the coat, a phenomenon known as 'reverse dappling.' They can be centered around the horse's back, or occur on wider areas of their body from neck to hindquarters.

Markings. Markings are white areas on the horse's face and lower legs that are not related to pattern genes such as leopard or pinto.

The markings trait controls the extensiveness of the markings, which can range from none at all to a wide blaze on the face + four stockings. However, it does Not control the exact size and, from a certain limit, the exact dispersion of the markings. This means that the shape/dispersion of markings are not inheritable.

Pangare. This trait, together with the pangare gene, controls the extensiveness and whiteness of the mealy effect in mealy horses.

Pinto Strength. This trait controls the extensiveness of the white areas in pinto horses, meaning horses who carry at least one of the following pinto genes: frame-overo, manchado, sabino-1, splashed-white, tobiano, or white-spotted.

5.D.6 Which conformation and hair traits do we have?:
All horses have all of these conformation traits.

Back Arch. Determines the shape of your horse's back (straight => concave). Can also affect the shape of the withers.

Back Length. Determines the length of your horse's back (short => long).

Body Width. Determines the width of your horse's body (narrow => wide).

Chest Shape. Determines the shape of your horse's chest (flat => bulky).

Crest. Determines the size of your horse's crest (thin => large).

Croup Height. Determines the height of your horse's croup (horizontal => high).
* Together with a steep slope (see scShb) can create a goose rump.

Ear Angle. Determines the angle of your horse's ears (close => floppy).
* Together with Ear Curve, the tips might even touch each other.

Ear Curve. Determines the curvature of your horse's ear tips (upright => curved inwards).
* Together with Ear Angle, the tips might even touch each other.

Ear Size. Determines the size of your horse's ears (small "pony" ears => long "mule" ears).

Ear Width. Determines the width of your horse's ears (narrow => wide).

Feathers. Determines the thickness and shape of your horse's feathers (if they have any; thin => full).
* Activated only if the horse carries at least one F feathering allele.

Frontal Bosses. Determines whether or not your horse has frontal bosses, and if they do then how prominent their bosses are (no bosses => prominent bosses).

Girth Depth. Determines the depth of your horse's girth (narrow => deep).

Girth Shape. Determines the curvature of your horse's belly (flat => curved).

Hair Thickness. Determines the thickness of your horse's tail (thin => thick).
* Together with Tail Length can create a rat tail.

Head Angle. Determines the angle of your horse's head (acute => obtuse).
* Together with Neck Angle profile can be below or over the vertical.

Head Depth. Determines the distance between the top of the upper jaw (profile) and the bottom of the lower jaw. Makes the head looks anywhere from narrow to deep from side view. (narrow => deep)

Head Length. Determines the distance between the eyes and the muzzle (short => long).

Head Width. Determines the width (from the front) of your horse's head (narrow => wide).

Hooded Eyes. Determines the degree to which your horse's eyes are covered by their upper eyelids (not covered => hooded).

Hoof Size. Determines the size of your horse's hooves (small => large).

Jowls. Determines the size and shape of the bottom of your horse's ramus (the roundish part of the jowl-bone that creates the cheek; small => large).

Leg Length. Determines the length of your horse's legs (short => long).

Leg Thickness. Determines the thickness of your horse's legs and the size of the hooves (thin => thick).

Mane Length. Determines the length and shape of your horse's mane (no mane => short mane => medium => long).
* See Hair Genetics file below for more info.

Musculature. Determines the muscle volume of your horse (minimal muscling => maximal muscling).

Muzzle Shape. Determines the shape of your horse's muzzle (square => elongated).
* Especially visible in the shape and length of the upper lip.

Muzzle Width. Determines the width of your horse's muzzle (visible from the front; narrow => wide).

Neck Angle. Determines the angle and position of your horse's neck (horizontal => upright).
* Also affects the shape and visibility of the withers.

Neck Height. Determines the smoothness and elevation of the connection between the neck and the withers (non-smooth => smooth and elevated).
* Also affects the shape of the neck and the shape and visibility of the withers.

Neck Length. Determines the length of your horse's neck (short => long).

Neck Shape. Determines the shape of your horse's neck (ewe => swan).
* Also affects the size of the crest.

Neck Thickness. Determines the thickness of your horse's neck (thin => thick).

Nostril Size. Determines the size (flaring) of your horse's nostrils (small => flared).
* Also affects the shape of the muzzle as viewed from the front.

Posture. Determines how far back your horse stretches their hind legs when standing (underneath => fully stretched).

Profile. Determines the shape of your horse's profile (dished => Roman).

ScShb. Determines the slope of your horse's croup and the volume of their hind muscles located at their buttocks (thin muscles and a steep slope -> average muscles and a rounded croup => stock-horse hind muscles).

Size. Determines the overall size of your horse (small => large).

Tail Angle. Determines how high your horse holds its tail (low and close to the body => high and far from the body).
* High angles increase the thickness of the tail (even if Hair Thickness trait remains the same).

Tail Length. Determines the length of your horse's tail. (short => long).
* Shortest tail reaches to about the line of the fibula.
* Together with Hair Thickness can create a rat tail.

Wither Height. Determines the prominence and shape of your horse's withers (low => prominent). Can also be affected by Back Arch, Neck Angle, and Neck Height.

For examples of breeds that demonstrate the extremes of these traits, read the "The Complete List of Conformation Traits" in Horses forum:

5.D.7 What noninheritable mutations do we have?:
Noninheritable Somatic Mutations are mutations that occur randomly regardless of parentage. This means that even if you cross two mutated parents, the foal might be born normal. It also means that two non-mutated parents can produce a mutated foal.

The mutations are:

Netting. Also known as "lacing," this is a giraffe-like, reticulated pattern that appears on the backs of horses. It varies from just a bit along the topline or extending further down the horse's sides. Netting always consists of white hairs. A horse must have the dapple trait for netting to express.

Bleach Marks. This somatic mutation is a lightening of the coat, making the horse appear to have been 'bleached,' giving the horse grey spots with colored rims.

Birdcatcher Spots. Birdcatcher spots are white flecks or marks on an otherwise dark body, ranging in size from a few single white hairs to make the horse look like they're covered in ping-pong balls! While it's unknown what gene is responsible for birdcatcher spots, it's not thought to be genetic in most cases (and isn't genetic here ;).)

Bend-Or Spots. These unique markings are darker pigmentation, ranging in red to black, typically found on palominos, chestnuts, and even darker colored horses. In Horse Isle, these spots can extend all the way to the neck- or be so small it's a little hard to see, being just a few spots on the rump.

Tetrarch Spots. These are white spots on a grey coat, named for the grey Thoroughbred stallion that made them so well known and passed the mark on to his descendants. While we don't have The Tetrarch here, we do have his very special mark!

Mosaic Coat. While once thought to be entirely a chimera in real life, Mosaic horses are better known as somatic horses. These large patches of color really make a horse stand out. It can be darker than the rest of the coat or lighter and the difference between the color patches is stark, not blended.

Flash Markings. This shocking white marking appears as white "lightning strikes" or swirls on any horse color, typically around the neck but it has been known to pop up on other areas, like the barrel or rump!

Can every horse express these mutations?

When it comes to lacing - a horse must have the dapple trait for netting to express.
When it comes to the other mutations - they all require a minimal amount of markings or the presence of a pinto pattern, and require that the coat won't be in particular colors.

For more detailed information, please read the "Requirements for rare patterns + which breeds come in mosaic" guide in Horses forum:

5.D.8 Markings: terminology, genetic control, and FAQ:
Markings are white areas on the horse's face and lower legs that are not related to pattern genes such as leopard or pinto. In real horses, markings are controlled by a variety of unmapped genes. In Horse Isle, however, things are somewhat simpler; markings are controlled by both a single trait and a random component.

Terminology: they have names?!
From this point on, I'm going to use proper marking naming. So, if you are unfamiliar with the terminology, here it is. :)

Facial markings:
* Star = a white, roundish spot on the forehead of the horse. Ranges from a small, fingertip-sized dot to a large, apple-sized circle.
- Irregular star= a star whose shape is different from a circle.
* Snip = a marking on the horse's muzzle. Ranges from small to large, and from centered (located at the center of the muzzle) to non-centered.
* Stripe = a continuous, somewhat straight stripe starting at the forehead and extending down the face, often all the way down to the muzzle where it ends in a snip.
- Irregular stripe = a curved stripe.
- Interrupted stripe = a stripe with a gap that cuts it into two, shorter stripes.
* Blaze = a thick stripe. Can be irregular or interrupted just like a stripe.
* Bald face = an extremely thick blaze that covers most or even all of the front of the face.
* Badger face = a marking that has the outer border of bald face, but the inside is colored (not white).

Leg markings:
* Coronet = a white line that covers the coronary band.
* Pastern = the leg from the pastern down is white.
- Partial pastern = the pastern marking covers only the front/back/sides of the pastern.
* Fetlock = the leg from the fetlock down is white. Can be whole or partial.
* Sock = any marking on the lower leg which is longer than a fetlock marking but is lower than stocking (see below).
* Stocking = a white sock that extends all the way to the knee/hock.

The markings spectrum:
In Horse Isle, markings range from "none" to a maximum of a "thick blaze + 4 stockings". This range has a gradual progression:
No markings at all > a star > a star or a snip > larger facial marking or leg markings without facial markings > larger facial marking and/or leg markings where the higher the markings trait the larger the markings > a thick blaze + stockings.

Where your horse's markings are on this spectrum depends on their genetic markings trait. This means that:
-- Markingless parents are more likely to have markingless foals.
-- Parents with loud markings are more likely to have foals with loud markings.

The total size of white areas is also genetic. However, the exact length, shape, and, in case of multiple markings, location of the markings is random, and is noninheritable.

For example:
Sire: has a stripe + a fetlock;
Dam: has a star + a sock;
The total white area of the markings--meaning stripe + fetlock, and star + sock--is equal in both parents.

=> Foal is likely to have the same amount of white as their parents but its dispersion will be random. As such, they might be born with, a thick blaze, or a snip + two fetlocks, etc.

If you look at the gradual progression listed above, you will also see that if you cross two horses from different 'markings grades', you might end up with a foal in a markings grade in-between them. In this case, the foal will have vastly different markings from their parents.

For example: if you cross a sire from the 'star or snip' grade with a dam from the 'facial + leg markings' grade, you might end up with a foal from the 'facial marking or leg markings' grade who looks different than their parents.

Markings amt [amount] penalties:
Some breed registries have restrictions on the type of markings that horses of the breed can have. In these cases, in Horse Isle, if a horse of this breed has too loud/little markings, they will be penalized for having "markings amt" being too high/low, respectively.

1. In real horses, chestnut horses are more likely to exhibit white markings. This association doesn't exist in Horse Isle, though.
2. The genetic control of the shape and size of white patches in pinto patterns is similar to that of markings. The overall size is determined by a trait, while their exact shape is random.
3. Non-spotted donkeys and mules lack leg markings, and the only facial marking which they exhibit is a white star which ranges from small to large.
4. Zebras and zorses don't exhibit markings.

5.D.9 Eye colors:

What eye colors do we have?
Green, tiger, blue/light-blue, hazel, amber, and, the most common of all, brown.

Are eye colors linked to coat color?
Yes and no.

In general:
- Double-cream dilutes always have blue or light-blue eyes.
- Champagne, pearl, cream-pearl, and smoky-black horses never have brown eyes.

However, the exact eye color is random. This means that in Horse Isle, eye color is not inheritable!

The only "inheritable" case is pinto horses with white faces, because they always have blue eyes. That said, their offspring will be born with blue eyes only if they are also born with a pinto pattern and a white face. In other words, they don't inherit the blue eyes per-se, but only the pinto pattern, part of which is the blue eyes.

Erm… this is not very realistic…
True, but we had to do our best with the coding limitations on hand to enable a large variety of realistic eye colors. ;)

5.D.10 Hair genetics: feathering:

Do horses have feathers??
Not exactly...

Usually, the lower legs of horses are covered with short coat hairs, just like the rest of their body. However, in some horses, primarily cobs and drafts, the lower legs are often covered with an additional, longer, thicker layer of hairs. These hairs are called feathering (or 'feather').

Feathering can range from sparse ('light') feathering at the back of the cannon bones, to thick ('heavy') feathering which covers the lower legs entirely all the way to the hooves.

The genetics of feathering:
The real genetics of feathering in real horses are still unknown, but in Horse Isle feathering is controlled by one gene and one trait.

The feathering gene determines whether or not a horse will have feathering, and if they do then how thick can it get.

The genotypes are:
ff = no feathering.
Ff = light feathering.
FF = light to heavy feathering.

Fun fact: this genetic control is the reason why crossing a heavily feathered horse (FF) with a non-feathered one (ff) will always result in offspring with light feathering (Ff), a phenomenon that also happens in real breeds (although the real genetic mechanism behind it is still unknown). :)

The feathering trait controls the exact thickness of the feathering within the allele limitations. This is why two horses who are homozygous for the feathering gene might have vastly different feathering in terms of thickness.

Feathering in other equines:
While horses can have thick feathering, hybrids and donkeys can exhibit light feathering at most, and zebras never exhibit feathering.

5.D.11 Hair genetics: manes & tails:
There are 16 different natural styles of manes in Horse Isle, and an even larger number of natural tail styles. All of these are determined by only one gene and four traits.


HairType: a gene that determines the texture and 'shape' of the hair (alleles in paranthesis): silky (Sk), wavy (Wv), and coarse (Cs).

ManeLength: a trait that controls the length of the mane. There are four length types: minimal* [mane is absent], short, medium, and long*.
*Doen't exist in donkeys, zebras, and hybrids.

The style of the mane is determined by the combination of HairType + ManeLength.
For a detailed description of the different mane styles, please read the Genetics of Manes guide in Horses forum:

Why was my born foal bald?!
In Horse Isle, foals are always born with the shortest mane style possible, which is why 'horse' foals in Horse Isle are born without a mane. Worry not, because as they grow older, their mane will grow longer until it reaches its proper length as determined by the ManeLength trait.

The texture of tails can be either silky or wavy, and is determined by the HairType gene. However, the overall 'shape' of the tail is determined by three traits:

HairThickness: determines the thickness of the tail.
In donkeys and hybrids, also determines the thickness (not length) of the mane.

Tail Length: determines the length of the tail.

Tail Angle: determines how high the horse carries their tail. The higher the tail, the thicker and shorter it'll seem.

Other equines:
While the natural styles of manes and tails in donkeys, zebras, and hybrids are different from that of horses, the genetic mechanisms behind them are the same. The HairType gene determines the texture of the hair, and the four traits determine the exact appearance of the mane and tail.

Stylized and 4Yo
If you are unhappy with the natural look of your horse's mane and tail, you can always stylize them at the barber (ostlery). In this case, the horse will have a 'stylized' tag below their profile avatar.

If you wish to see the natural mane and tail of a stylized horse, simply click on their 4Yo view (for more info, see Breeding 4Yo and 0Yo view: their importance in breeding).

5.D.12 Why did my horse change its coat color/pattern?!:
If your horse changed their color, worry not, because it is [probably] completely normal and has to do with their age.

All horses turn greyer during the final decade of their life, regardless of their coat color. This is just part of life.

However, some coats do more than becoming a tad greyer:

Greying process in grey horses:
Horses who carry the grey G allele start to gradually turn grey as early as three years old:
-- If they are heterozygous for grey (Gg), they will stop greying then their coat reaches its target shade of grey. The exact target is random for each horse, and is not inheritable.
-- If they are homozygous for grey (GG), they will continue greying until their coat turns white-grey.

'Fleabitten' is the name of a dotted pattern that occurs in grey horses, (nothing to do with actual fleas). The coat of fleabitten horses is often light-grey or white-grey, and is covered with countless, small dots that might resemble fleas or fleabites.

Normally, in real horses, the fleabitten pattern develops over time. However, in Horse Isle it happens extremely fast. Your horse might have a clean grey coat one day, and a fleabitten one the next day.

NOTE: the fleabitten process in Horse Isle is random and irreversible. Some horses have it while others don't, and once it affects the coat there is no way to reverse it. The only way to completely 'protect' the coat of grey horses from the chance of turning fleabitten is by applying infinitum amulet to them while their coat is clean. Keep in mind, though, that it will turn the horse immortal and sterile.

As leopard horses age, above a certain age, the spots "break" into smaller spots, and the pattern becomes messier.

NOTE: Same as with the fleabitten above, the only way to 'protect' a horse's coat from this effect is by applying infinitum amulet to them before their coat changes. Keep in mind, though, that it will turn the horse immortal and sterile.

Roaning in donkeys:
Roan donkeys (especially frosted roan ones) become whiter as they age, as the roan pattern expands and becomes stronger.

This phenomenon exists only in roan donkeys. Roan horses stay the same throughout their lifetime.

If your horse changed their coat despite none of the reasons above applying to them, then it might be a glitch. Leave us a message at Bugs forum with the horse's ID (you can find it in the horse's history page) and how their coat changed exactly, and we'll take a look. :)

E) Heredity

5.E.1 Overview:
Have you ever...
Wondered why foals turn out the way they do?
Wished to predict which colors your foal might be?
Wanted to know how to pick the right breeding stock to get the foal of your dreams?

Understanding how heredity works will answer all of the above questions and will give you tools to use. :)

5.E.2 Inheritance of conformation:
'Conformation' is a word you are going to hear a lot in Horse Isle, so let's start by clarifying what it is. :)

What is conformation?
Conformation is the physical structure of a horse, and has a direct influence over the horse's performance. All of the performance stats of horses in Horse Isle, except for fear tolerance, are linked directly to the horse's conformation.

Conformation is controlled by traits:
The conformation of each horse in Horse Isle is made of 40 separate traits.
All traits are numerical values that range from 0 to 1, and the exact value that a horse has for a particular trait determines the structure and appearance of the part of the horse's body that is controlled by that trait.

For example: the Head Length trait controls the length of the horse's head, whose exact length is determined by the numerical value of the Head Length trait.

How is conformation inherited?
When you cross two horses, the foal can inherit any of the parents' traits' numerical values, or to fall in-between them. In rare cases, the foal might also mutate outside of the parents' range, meaning that they will inherit numbers outside of this range.

For example: if the head length of the sire is 0.4, and the head lengh of the dam is 0.6, the foa's head length will be anywhere between 0.4 and 0.6, unless they mutate out of this range.

Recessive traits:
In rare cases, foals can also express recessive traits. These are traits that their parents carry but don't express. The source of these traits is from the foal's grandparents, or great-grandparents, or great-great-grandparents, and so on.

These recessive traits are simply being passed on to the next generation, and are usually not expressed, but on rare cases they can be expressed, in which case the foal will be more similar to the grandparent from which they received this trait rather than to their parents.

For example: a stallion with Head Length of 0.7 was crossed with a mare whose Head Length is 0.4. Their colt was born with a Head Length of 0.5, but also inherited a recessive Head Length of 0.7.
If you cross this colt, who is now a fine stallion, with a mare, there is a small chance that the stallion will pass the recessive 0.7 Head Length to his foal, and that the foal will express this 0.7 Head Length similar to his grandsire.

Again, inheritance of recessive traits is an extremely rare occasion. We simply mention it so you'll know why some foals in Horse Isle, just like in real life, are born looking more like their grandparents rather than their parents. ;)

Affecting the inheritance process:
The exact 'number' that the foal is born with for each trait, and whether they mutate outside of their parents' ranges or inherit recessive traits, are all determined randomly. However, you can affect the inheritance process by:

1) Crossing similar parents.
* The more similar the parents are to each other, the less likely the foal to mutate dramatically from their parents. Even if they do mutate, this will barely be noticeable for most conformation traits.
* This method is good for avoiding dramatic mutations, but doesn't affect the inheritance and expression of recessive traits.

2) Using amulets.
* There are two amulets that affect the inheritance of traits:
-- Adsimulo- ensures that the foal remains within the trait range of their parents, and doesn't mutate out of this range.
-- Transmutatio - greatly increases the chances of the foal to mutate outside of the parents' range.
* Remember that even with the amulets, the exact values that the foal inherits are determined randomly. ;)

5.E.3 Inheritance of performance metrics:
One of the most challenging goals in Horse Isle is breeding horses with high performance metrics. This is because the inheritance of performance metrics, is not as straightforward as the inheritance of conformation traits.

Performance metrics determine the performance of your horse. How fast can your horse run, how high can they jump, how much weight can they pull and for how long -- all of these and more are determined by performance metrics.

Performance metrics are represented as horizontal bars in your horse's profile, with the exact performance level written as a numerical value by the bar's right end. You can use these numbers to pick breeding stock of good quality. However, even if you cross a stallion with a mare who has similar or even better performance metrics, you might still get a foal whose metrics are lower than their parents.

Performance metrics depend on traits:
Performance metrics are NOT traits. They depend on conformation traits and base stat traits, but they are not traits in themselves. This is why performance metrics are not inheritable.

What is inheritable are the conformation traits and base stats that control them. This is why crossing horses with similar conformation and base stats will maximize the chances of getting a foal with similar performance metrics. Any difference between the parents increases the chances of getting a foal with different metrics, for good or bad.

What if I use breeding amulets?
Both adsimulo and transmutatio amulets do not affect the inheritance of performance metrics directly, but do have an indirect influence.

Even if both parents have excellent metrics, if they have different conformation traits then the foal might:
- Inherit the 'wrong' conformation traits from each parent and end up with far lower metrics.
- Inherit the best conformation traits from each parent and end up with higher metrics.
- Be born with nearly the same performance metrics as their parents, because they inherited mostly the conformation of one of the parents, or because they have a different conformation but, combined with their base stats, their performance metrics ended up similar to their parents'.

That said:
Adsimulo can promote similar performance metrics to those of the parents if both parents have a similar conformation and similar base stats.
Transmutatio can promote variation in performance metrics from the parents, in accordance with the foal's conformation and base stats, for good or bad.

When one trait goes up, another goes down:
In Horse Isle, just like in the real world, horses can't be good at everything.

For example:
- The lighter and faster a horse is, the less weight they can pull.
- The larger and wider a horse is, the more weight they can pull, but the slower they are and the less stamina they have.
- Small horses tend to have more stamina relative to their size, but are nowhere near as fast as a larger, taller horse.

This is important, because it means that you can't breed a horse who excels in all performance metrics. Instead, you need to prioritize two or three metrics, and focus on increasing them while accepting the fact that other metrics will go down.

I really want to do the opposite and breed for horses with the lowest metrics possible. Is it possible to do?
Absolutely, within the rules/principles listed above. Remember that when one metric goes down another one goes up, and that it all goes down to the inheritance of improper conformation traits and low base stats. ;)

5.E.4 Inheritance of gait:
Just like in real life, the gait of horses in Horse Isle is controlled by a genetic component designed after the real DMRT "gatekeeper" gene. This means that gaits are never random and that you can breed horses to be gaited or non-gaited.

Alleles and gaits
In Horse Isle, gait is controlled by the GaitKeeper gene which has two alleles: co and Am. The relationship between these alleles is incomplete dominance, meaning that each combination of alleles creates a different sequence of gaits:

coco = non-gaited = walk, trot, canter, gallop.
coAm = pacer = walk, trot, pace, gallop.
AmAm = ambler = walk, amble, pace, gallop.

Predicting the foal's gait
Predicting the foal's gait requires knowing the parents' GeneKeeper alleles. You can infer what the genes are by:
1. Checking if the parents are non-gaited, pacers, or amblers.
2. Genetically test the parents at the Horse Expert.

By knowing the GaitKeeper alleles of the parents, you will then be able to infer what are the odds of getting a gaited foal:

Parent A x Parent B = possible foals
coco x AmAm = 100% coAm
coco x coAm = 50% coco, 50% coAm
AmAm x coAm = 50% AmAm, 50% coAm
coAm x coAm = 50% coAm, 25% coco, 25% AmAm

5.E.5 Inheritance of coats:

5.E.6 Recessive coats and how to master their brilliance:
In short, if your horse has a recessive coat, you can infer the relevant alleles that they carry with 100% certainty.

What are recessive coats?
A recessive coat is any color, modification, or pattern, that affects the coat and appears only if the horse carries two copies of the necessary alleles.

For example: chestnut is a recessive coat, because a horse must carry two Extension e alleles in order to be chestnut.

Recessive coats are a powerful tool in genetics because of the following two rules:

1. Recessive coats also include the lack of a dominant pattern.
For example: non-roan is a recessive coat, because in order to be non-roan a horse must carry two non-roan alleles (rn.)

2. Horses can have several recessive coats.
For example: a horse can be flaxen chestnut rabicano manchado, all at once, even though all of these coats are recessive.

Using recessive coats for genetic predictions
Recessive coats are an absolute treasure when it comes to heredity, because they allow us to tell which alleles the horse has and which alleles they'll pass on to their foals, all by just looking at their coat!

1. A horse with a recessive coat will always carry two copies of the recessive alleles for the coat.
2. Because of that, the horse will always pass one recessive allele to their foal.
3. Crossing two parents with the same recessive coat will always generate a foal with the same recessive coat.

For example:
1. If a horse has a flaxen chestnut coat, it means they carry two Extension e alleles (coding for the chestnut coat) and two Flaxen fl alleles (coding for flaxen mane and tail.) By this stage, we know for sure that the horse carries:
Extension e/e; Flaxen fl/fl.

2. Any foals produced by this horse will always carry at least one Extension e allele and one Flaxen fl allele. This means we know for sure that the foal carries:
Extension e/?; Flaxen fl/?.

3. If the foal's other parent is also flaxen chestnut, then we can predict that the foal will be flaxen chestnut, just like his two parents.

To sum up
Recessive coats are a powerful tool. They allow you to predict part, if not all, of the horse's genotype, just by looking at their coat, without genetically testing them! :D

Want to know which recessive coats we have in Horse Isle? Check the next help file. :)

5.E.7 List of recessive coats in Horse Isle:
a list of all the recessive coats in Horse Isle.

Want to know how to use these coats to tell a horse’s genotype or predict the genotype of their foals? Check the help file above about Recessive coats and how to master their brilliance.

Note: the list below shows only straight-forward coats that ensure that a horse carries two copies of a certain allele. Coats that have several possible genotypes (e.g. non-bay), or that can be hidden due to minimal expression (e.g. all the pinto patterns) are excluded from this list.

Regular (Genotype)
Black (Agouti aa)
Brindle (Brindle brbr)
Chestnut (Extension ee)
Flaxen (Flaxen flfl) [requires chestnut coat]
Manchado (Manchado mama)
Mushroom (Mushroom mm)
Pearl (Cream cpcp)
Rabicano (Rabiano rbrb)

Ivory (CameoIvory iviv)
MissenseAlbino (MissenseAlbino mama)

Rare patterns (not mentioned in coat's name but apparent on the coat)
Dark mane & tail (RarePatn dmtdmt) [requires grey coat]
Grey mane & tail (RarePatn gmtgmt)
Gulastra Plum (RarePatn gplgpl)

Lack of pattern
Non-champagne (Champagne chch)
Non-dun + Non-linebacked (Dun d2d2)
Non-grey (Grey gg)
Non-leopard (Leopard ll)
Non-mealy (Pangare pgpg)
Non-metallic (Metallic mtmt)
Non-roan (Roan rnrn)
Non-silver-dapple (Silver zz)
Non-sooty (Sooty sty)
Non-dominant-white (Dominant White w)

Non-russet (Russet rr)
Non-smokey (Smokey sksk)
Non-tyger (Tyger tyty)
Non-spotted (Spotted1 spsp + Spotted2 spsp)

Non-curly (Curly clcl) [not a color but hair texture]
Non-wooly (donkeys only) (Wooly wlwl) [not a color but hair texture]

5.E.8 Dominant coats and how to harness their power:
Dominant coats are powerful coats. Unlike recessive coats that require two recessive alleles to be expressed, dominant coats require only one. They are more difficult to work with, but if you know what you're looking for you might still get the information you are after just by looking at your horse. :)

What are dominant coats?
A dominant coat is any color, modification, or pattern, that affects the coat and appears if the horse carries even only one copy of the necessary allele.

For example: champagne is a dominant coat, because even if a horse carries a only one Champagne Ch allele rather than two it's enough to make their coat champagne.

Dominant coats fall into two groups:
Incomplete-dominant coats that are characterized by amplified effect.
Complete dominant coats that result in a uniform effect.

You can use both groups to infer the genotype of your horse.

Incomplete dominance and their amplified effect
Incomplete dominance refers to dominant coats that require two copies of the dominant allele in order to achieve the full effect. If a horse carries only one copy of the dominant allele, then you'll still see an effect (hence why this coat is dominant), but it will be subtler compared to the effect seen in horses who carry two copies of the dominant allele.

For example: cream is a dominant gene that dilutes the horse's coat (thus making it lighter.) If a horse carries one Cream C allele their coat is diluted into a tan-golden shade, whereas if they carry two Cream C alleles their coat is diluted into a creamy-white shade. In other words, the presence of two Cream C alleles amplifies the effect.

Using incomplete-dominant coats in genetic predictions
Incomplete-dominant coats are a genetic treasure, because they allow you to tell exactly how many dominant alleles the horse carries:

1. If the coat shows only a subtle effect (e.g. 'half' of the expected effect,) then the horse carries only one dominant allele, and one recessive allele.

2. If the coat shows the full effect, then the horse carries two dominant alleles.

For example: roan is an incomplete dominant coat. In order to be fully roan--a coat known as corn roan--a horse must carry two Roan R alleles. Now, let's say you have a roan horse. Only by looking at their coat, you can tell their roan genotype:
If the coat is a subtle (non-corn) roan, then your horse carries Roan Rr.
If the coat is a full (corn) roan, then your horse carries Roan RR.

Complete dominance and their uniform effect
The second group of dominant coats is complete dominance, which refers to coats that show the full effect regardless of if the horse carries only one of the required alleles or two.

For example: champagne is a complete coat, because even if a horse carries a only one Champagne Ch allele rather than two it's enough to make their coat fully champagne.

Inside this group, there are two special coats you need to keep in mind: frame-overo and dominant-white. Those coats are lethal homozygous, which means that every horse in the game that shows these coats always carries one dominant allele and one recessive allele.

Using complete-dominant coats in genetic predictions
Unfortunately, complete-dominant coats are not very useful when it comes to inferring which alleles your horse carries. The only thing you can know for sure is that your horse carries at least one of the dominant alleles.

The only exception are frame-overo and dominant-white which, in the game, always mean that your horse carries one dominant allele and one recessive allele. For frame-overo: Frfr; for domiant-white: Ww.

5.E.9 List of dominant coats in Horse Isle:
Want to know how to use these coats to tell a horse’s genotype or predict the genotype of their foals? Check the help file above about Dominant coats and how to harness their power.

Note: the list below shows only straight-forward coats that ensure that a horse carries at least one copy of the dominant allele.

Amplified affect (incomplete dominance)
Cream (palomino/bucking/smoky-black: Cc; cremello/perlino/smoky-cream: CC)
Metallic (weak metallic: Mtmt; strong metallic: MtMt)
Roan (non-corn roan: Rnrn; corn roan: RnRn)
Sooty (weak sooty: Stysty; strong sooty: StySty)

Uniform affect (complete dominance)
Champagne (Champagne Ch)
Dun (Dun D)
Dominant black (Extension Ed)
Leopard (‘appaloosa coat’; Leopard L)
Sabino-1 (Sabino Sb)
Splashed-white (Splashed-white Spl)
Tobiano (Tobiano Tb)
White-spotted sabino (White-spotted Ws)
Wild bay (Agouti Ap)

Curly (Curly Cl) [not a color but hair texture]

Cameo (CameoIvory C)
LightPoints (LightPoints Lp)
Russet (Russet R)
Smokey (Smokey Sk)
Tyger (Tyger Ty)

Wooly (Wooly Wl) [not a color but hair texture]

Always heterozygous
Frame-overo (always Frfr)
White (always Ww)

Spotted-1 (Spotted1 Sp)
Spotted-2 (Spotted2 Sp)

5.E.10 Multiple-allele coats and how to rein their trickery:
Multiple-allele coats are tricky, but luckily, there aren't too many of those in Horse Isle.

What are multiple-allele coats?
Multiple-allele coats are coats that are controlled by genes that have more than two possible alleles. While horses will always carry only two alleles, they have more than two possibilities to choose from so to speak.

In Horse Isle, there are five such coats. The following are their alleles, listed from most dominant (left end) to least dominant (right end), with the [coat] to which they code:

Agouti: Ap [wild bay], A [bay], at [seal brown], a [black]

Cream: C [cream], c [not cream], cp [pearl].

Extension: Ed [dominant black], E [black], e [chestnut]

Dun: D [dun], d1 [linebacked], d2 [not dun, not linebacked]

[The fifth is RarePattern. We'll get to its alleles in a moment.]

These four coats are possible to work with as long as you remember the following rule:
The horse always carries at least one allele of the coat they show, with the second allele being either identical or recessive to the one coding their coat.

For example: we know that the Agouti gene has four alleles, with the dominance sequence being: Ap > A > at > a.
+ If a horse is Wild Bay, then you can be certain that they carry at least one Agouti Ap, but you can’t tell what their second Agouti allele is (Ap? A? at? a?)
+ If they are regular bay, it means they don’t carry Ap, and they do carry at least one Agouti A. The second allele is either A, at, or a.
+ If they are seal brown, it means they carry one at and that the second allele is either at or a.
+ If they are black, which is the most recessive agouti allele, then they 100% carry Agouti aa.

As you can see, while you can infer what one of the alleles is, you can't always tell the other. Unfortunately, there isn’t a magical way to go around it without genetic testing, except for one gene.

The one exception: cream and pearl
The Cream gene is a multiple-allele gene that has three possible alleles: cream (C), non-cream (c), and pearl (cp).

You'll always be able to tell which alleles the horse carries based on their coat color, except for one scenario: non-cream, which can result from Cream cc and Cream ccp.

However, because cp is an extremely rare allele in Horse Isle, then we recommend to assume that your horse is simply Cream cc. Plus, if your horse is of a breed that never comes in pearl, then they are certainly Cream cc.

The impossible case: RarePattern
The RarePattern gene is responsible for three, rare colorations of the mane and tail:
gmtgmt = grey mane & tail.
dmtdmt = dark mane & tail [only if the coat is grey].
gplgpl = gulastra plume

However, if the horse carries two different alleles (e.g. dmtgmt) or carries the gene's most dominant allele Nop, then the horse is not going to have any rare pattern.

This means that if your horse doesn't show any rare pattern, then you can't tell for sure which alleles they carry. Still, your best bet is to assume that they probably carry NopNop, because the other three alleles are extremely rare.

5.E.11 Inferring the genotype of horses without genetic testing:
It is possible to tell most (or even all) of your horse's genotype just by looking at its coat.

In this guide, we assume that you know the horse's parents, although even if you don't then some of the steps below are still applicable.

Step 1: Are there recessive coats involved?
If the answer is yes, you can be certain that the horse is homozygous for the recessive alleles, and cross off all the relevant (recessive) genes off your list.

For example: if your horse is flaxen, you can be sure that they carry Flaxen fl/fl.

REMEMBER: the lack of dominant coats automatically means that your horse is homozygous for the non-dominant alleles! Use this principle, and you can cross most of the genes off your list.

For example: if a horse is non-champagne, non-grey, non-roan, non-white, non-mealy, and non-leopard, then you can be 100% sure that they are: Champagne ch/ch + Grey g/g + Roan rn/rn + White w/w + Pangare pg/pg + Leopard l/l. This description fits most of the breeds in Horse Isle, and these are six(!) genes off your list!

Step 2: Does any of the parents have recessive coats?
Even if your horse doesn’t have any recessive coats, it’s still worth taking a look at their parents. If even one of their parents shows a recessive coat, then you can be 100% sure that your horse is either heterozygous or homozygous for that coat.

Now, ask yourself: does your horse has a coat color that would show the recessive coat?

YES?Then you can be 100% certain that your horse is heterozygous for the recessive coat. At this stage, you can cross all the relevant genes off your list.

No?Then your horse is either heterozygous or homozygous for the recessive coat.

For example: let's say you have a non-flaxen horse whose sire is flaxen. In order to be flaxen, a horse must be chestnut. Ask yourself: is your horse chestnut or chestnut-based?
-- If the horse IS chestnut, then they are 100% heterozygous for flaxen, meaning Flaxen fl/Fl.
-- If the horse is NOT chestnut or chestnut-based, then they can either be Flaxen fl/Fl, or they are Flaxen fl/fl but they don't show it because they have the wrong coat color.

Step 3: Are there dominant coats involved?
If you read the help file about Dominant coats and how to harness their power, then you know that some dominant coats have a homozygous appearance and a heterozygous appearance. Just by looking at the coat, you can tell if a horse is homozygous to a dominant gene or heterozygous, and cross the relevant genes off your list.

For example: if a horse is corn roan, then they are 100% homozygous for roan, meaning that they carry Roan Rn/Rn. If your horse is roan but not corn-roan, then they are 100% Roan Rn/rn.

Step 4: Are there multiple-allele genes involved?
This is a trickier step, which is why we reserve it only for the genes that you didn't figure out yet. It is also relevant only for multiple-allele genes. If you don't know what they are, then please read the guide about Multiple-allele genes and how to rein their trickery.

If your horse shows one of the multiple-allele phenotypes, you can be sure that:
1) They carry at least one allele that codes for the phenotype.
2) They don't carry any of the more dominant alleles.
3) They might carry one of the more recessive alleles.

For example: Agouti is a multiple-allele gene, with the dominance sequence being: Ap > A > at > a. If a horse is regular bay, then you can be sure that they:
+ Don't carry Ap (otherwise they would be wild-bay,) and,
+ Do carry at least one Agouti A (hence why they are bay,)
+ The second allele can be either A, at, or a (no way to tell for sure.)

Step 5: Is there pinto involved?
"Pinto" refers to: frame, tobiano, sabino, splashed-white, and white-spotted.

All of these genes are dominant, and their expression is determined by a specific trait. Because of this, in rare cases, a horse might have a regular coat even if they carry pinto alleles.

-- If the parents of the horse don't have pinto coats themselves, then we recommend assuming that the horse doesn't carry any of the pinto genes either.
-- If they do, then even if your horse doesn't show the pattern, there's still a chance that your horse carries the pinto gene but its expression is so minimal that it's not apparent.

Odd white patterns/markings can be a clue to minimal pinto patterns even if the coat's name doesn't mention them:
+ Fractured face markings can be a sign of minimal sabino.
+ Fractured leg markings can be a sign of minimal sabino/tobiano.
+ White patches on the body (that are not a mutation) can be a sign of tobiano/frame-overo.

In conclusion
If you follow the steps above, then for most horses with common, solid, typical coats, you should have most if not all of their genotype figured out without genetically testing them. :)

Of course, some cases are more complicated and might require testing, but even in those cases, if you genetically test your foundation stock, then you'll be probably good to go without testing when it comes to their offspring.

F) Horse Slots

5.F.1 Overview:
While the wilds are infinite, your number of horse slots are not! Each horse slot must be unlocked by building a barn. Barns each hold three horses.

You are limited to 300 horse slots as a nonsubscriber; while you can have more, you will be unable to ride or place your horses if you go over, regardless of how many barns you own or what bonuses are applied. You may not breed, purchase from auction, receive horses in a trade, or catch wild horses if you are over these slots.

Subscribers may have up to 800 horse slots.

You may also have another 700 horse slots if you choose to purchase horse max extensions in the Mobia Shop in-game. Each extension allows 5 horse slots and costs 100 Mobia. You'll still need to build the barns for this, but the slot addition is permanent and will stay with your account forever. You're only able to purchase this item if you already have over half of your max barn slots- so there's no accidental buying if you're unsure of what it does. :) 800 horses is usually more than enough for most people, but we offer this as a way for very dedicated breeders (and hoarders) to expand their breeding programs if they're not content with the 800 horse cap.

If you go over your own horse limit (base slots with NO barns- 3 for non subs, 9 for subs) you'll find your energy, focus, and travel will begin falling and your horses will all start losing their good moods!

5.F.2 Barns:
You may increase your total number of horse slots by building Barns on your ranches.

Each new barn holds an additional 3 horses and the style does not matter. It's important to the happiness of your horses (and the sake of your travel, energy, and focus bars) that each of them has a barn slot of their own. If you go over your max horses, you'll have a bunch of cranky horses on your hands.

Each pasture or show pen counts as a single-slot horse barn, as well. This cannot be upgraded.

Only the Shedrow style of barn may be built flush (right next to) another barn. The others have a sort of 'buffer zone' where you can't build.


Sometimes, the space a single barn gives just isn't enough, but that next parcel also seems like it's too far away and you've just got... way too many horses to house.

For that reason, we've found the Magical Barn Upgrade... ok it still requires you to actually put in resources and just make your barn bigger. To keep the barn's integrity, you'll need twice the resources to upgrade your barn.

An Upgraded Barn will hold five horses instead of three. If you choose to remove your barn, you will not get the resources used refunded, only the base barn will give you any refund!

5.F.3 Show Pens, Stores, and Studs:
A horse in a show pen, pasture, or store (for sale or stud) will still take up a horse slot. Stores do not act as 'holding areas' to allow additional horse slots ;) Every horse you own, save for foals that are nursing, will take up a slot no matter where they are.

If you cannot find a horse you're trying to sell on your horse list, check out your show pens and pastures and ensure they're not hiding in your store!

5.F.4 Can a Horse Get Lost?:
Nope! A horse can never lose its way in the wilds (the same cannot be said for their owners.)

If a horse does go missing from your account, it likely died from old age (or it was sold.) Your horses are pretty attached to you and will not willingly leave your account for any reason unless it's old or sold ;)

If you place or dismount your horse and walk away from them, they'll go back to your barn ("horse inventory") on their own after you're about 65 meters away from them.

G) Life Spans

5.G.1 Overview:
Horse Isle 2 featured horses with natural lifespans on Life Cycle and horses who lived forever on Eternal. Horse Isle 3 allows you to have both! Infinitum Amulets are used to set a horse as Eternal, allowing you to keep a favorite horse for as long as they've got the Infinitum Amulet on.

5.G.2 Eternal:
Have a horse you just can't bear to live without? You can make its lifespan Eternal buy purchasing an Infinitum Amulet in the game store. Infinity Amulets cost 100 Mobia (so, $1.00USD). You use an Infinity Amulet as a piece of tack.

As long as the horse is wearing the amulet, it does not age, HOWEVER, it is permanently sterilized, and can never be used for breeding again, even if the amulet is removed. A horse who has worn an Infinity Amulet in the past, but is not wearing it now, has an Extended lifespan. To be a little redundant- an Eternal or Extended horse CANNOT have foals.

5.G.3 Natural:
The default lifespan for a horse in the Infinite Wilds is "natural." All horses will live a minimum of 26 years. Some smaller and lucky horses can live a maximum of about 40 years (game time of one "day" per real hour, so a very long-lived horse will last a year and a half real-time) but the majority will live to be around 30, with some under and some over.

Gelding a stallion will give him a small boost on whatever lifespan is remaining to him.

A horse in it's last year of life will be "too frail to ride". This is the only indication that the time is near.

There is no way to know a horse's eventual lifespan in advance.

A horse's lifespan is largely based on size, breed, and, as with all things, luck. A smaller horse or pony will have a longer lifespan than a big draft horse.

Foals age at double the speed of adults (two days for every real hour) and adults age at day per every real hour.

5.G.4 Extended:
Horses with an Extended lifespan are still sterile and cannot be used for breeding, but age at the normal rate from the time the infinity amulet was removed.

An Extended horse can never have a foal or be used as a stud. If you bred a mare before applying the amulet, her pregnancy will not progress and you'll need to take the amulet off for the foal to be born.

5.G.5 Horse Amulets:
Many types of horse amulets are available. Keep in mind that a horse may only wear one of each kind (life or protection) at a time- these are applied through a horse's TACK tab, not through your inventory.

Life Amulets

Speed up the life of a horse, stop their aging entirely, or speed up pregnancy.

Infinity Amulets. Infinity Amulets prevent horses from aging as long as the horse wears them. They cost 100 Mobia (so, $1.00USD). They do have side effects, however: horses who wear Infinity Amulets are permanently sterile, and cannot be used for breeding, even after the amulet is removed. If you remove an Infinity Amulet from a horse, the horse will carry on aging from where it left off.

Geminus Amulets. Geminus Amulets safely triple the rate at which a horse ages, so one doesn't need to wait so very long for that new foal to grow into a rideable adult. The fast-aging effect lasts only for the time the amulet is worn; removing the amulet returns the horse to normal aging. Geminus Amulets cost 400 mobia ($4.00 USD).

Gravida Amulets Can't wait for that foal to be born? A Gravida Amulet is what you want. They cost 800 Mobia (so, $8.00 USD). Gravida Amulets allow a mare to safely foal in one-third of the time it would take were she not wearing the amulet. It has no effect on the mare otherwise.

Protection Amulets

Protection Amulets may be worn at the same time as a Life Amulet, each serving a different purpose for protecting your horse in some way.

Salus Amulets Salus amulets protect a horse from injury while the amulet is being worn. They cost 250 Mobia ($2.50 USD).

Transmutatio amulets protect your foal from, of all things, becoming like their parents! This amulet must be applied before the mare is bred.. Warning: This has a chance of giving you both excellent foals and very, very bad ones. They cost 1,000 mobia ($10.00 USD.) This does not increase your chances of a somatic mutation. This causes ONLY INHERITABLE mutated traits.

Adsimulo amulets protect your foals from random mutations- ANY random mutations, be they positive or negative in any part of the foal's genetics. The foal will always be between its mom and dad, genetic-wise, and trait-wise. They cost 1,000 mobia ($10.00 USD.)

Munditiae amulets protect your horse's groom! You can traverse any amount of muddy or dirty water and your horse will magically have all dirt and muck repelled from their coat. They cost 250 mobia ($2.50 USD.)

H) Pedigree and Lineage

5.H.1 Notable Ancestors:
You will sometimes get a horse so special that you'll want to see its impact long after they've left for greener pastures. These horses are the Secretariats and Darley Arabians of this world- a horse so magnificent, it's written into song and legend. (And has a book or two written about it.)

You may register a Notable Horse such as this through the Library for 25 Mobia, where their name at the time of registration and their breed will be permanently recorded. You and EVERYONE that has a horse descended from this magnificent creature will be able to see how many generations away they are!

After a horse has 100 descendants, you can no longer view each individual profile. You can, however, see who owns the descendant from the Ancestor page on the horse's profile... for a fee!

A few notes, however:

1. We only list the six most recent Ancestors of Note in the lineage to keep things a little less confusing.
2. This is NOT a pedigree system. This will just allow you to see what truly legendary horses were used in the creation of your horses- and to see how your magnificent horse has influenced the game months and years after he's passed.
3. If an Ancestor of Note appears multiple times in a horse's history, we have chosen to only list the most recent appearance.

Nota Bene:

If a horse is registered with no direct children, but has second generation and above (grandchildren,) they will not show up on the Ancestor list. This is because a horse needs to "know" that's their grandchild and be able to do a lineage link.

So if you have a stallion, Mister Amazing, and decide to make him a registered ancestor after all of his children are either dead or tradered off to lands unknown, he won't show up on the Ancestor list of his living grandchildren, or anything after that.

5.H.2 Pedigrees:
We do not have a full Pedigree system on Horse Isle. You are able to track a horse with living ancestor's pedigrees through profile pages, however!

Clicking a horse's History in their profile will bring up by whom the animal was sired by and which dam they're out of. If the horse has one or both parents living, you can click to view their profiles from the horse's history page.

Very dedicated players may create a pedigree on their horse's profile!

5.H.3 Certifications:
Players may create a Horse Certification- this may be a sort of award, something given out to horses of friends, or, if you'd like, your own breed! This is a very fun aspect of the game. This will also keep real world breeds distinct from player created. A horse with a Certification will have it listed under their Breed, and you can see all horses registered under your certification at the Post Office.

For 1000 mobia, you may purchase your Certification in the Shop. To register a horse for a Certification, you can do so at a Post Office.

From there, you'll write a description of your Certification standard. For example:

Magical Glitter Pony
A certification for ponies that look magical and also glitter. Does not need to be an actual pony.

(in this case, a very pretty looking Metallic horse.)

Submission Fee:
This is typically 1/5th the cost of the acceptance fee, however you can make it as much (or as little) as you'd like. This is given to you as a fee simply for reviewing the horse. Unless you waive the fee and delete the application, the owner of a rejected horse will not get this back. (If you'd like to give their submission fee back, simply Delete the certification application.)

Acceptance Fee
Of course, any good studbook will have a registration and acceptance fee ;). You'll need to specify what your fee is for a horse to be reviewed for certification as a Certified Magical Glitter Pony.

Review Submissions

After all that is said and done, your Magical Glitter Pony Certification can now take submissions. If a horse doesn't fit your specifications, you can reject them and give a quick note to its owner as to why it was rejected. ("This horse looks magical, but does not glitter.")

If the horse is deemed worthy of your very awesome Certification, it'll now display it on the profile under Breed! It'll look a bit like this:

Breed: Grade Pony
Certifications: Magical Glitter Pony

Number of Certifications
A horse may have multiple Certifications- perhaps Magical Glitter Pony, Best Dancer and Horgie (horse that looks an awful lot like a corgi.) While there's no limit to this, you may want to only register them with a few certifications to keep their profile clean (and for your sanity.) If a horse has more than three, however, you may click the "View Certifications" button on their profile to expand the list.

Editing Certifications

Players may ask Support to fix typos or formatting errors in their certifications, but once a certification is created, it is permanent.

5.H.4 Breed Blood Percentage (BBP):
Also known as BBP, is accessible from the horse's History page (see Horses > Profile > History for more info).

The BBP lists the 'breed content' of your horse in percentages, and therefore lets you know which breeds had the most influence over your horse. It has nothing to do with breed-identification or purebreeding.

Each horse's BBP is calculated as follows:
(*Sire BBP / 2) + (*Dam BBP / 2) ==> add up percentages in case of a joint breed ==> output = BBP.
* - at time of conception.

Resetting the BBP:
At the bottom of the History page, you will have an option to Reset the horse's BBP, which you can use if you are the horse's owners and if the horse is purebred for their breed.
Resetting the blood percentage will delete the horse's original blood percentage, and will replace it with 100% current horse's breed (see example below).
This change is permanent, so be sure about it before clicking!

For example, if you cross a pure Arabian with a pure Haflinger, you will get a pure Arabo-Haflinger who has 50% Arabian blood, and 50% Haflinger blood.

If you choose to cross this Anglo-Arab with an Arabo-Friesian who has 50% Arabian 50% Friesian blood, the foal will then have the following blood percentage:
25% Haflinger blood (Arabo-Haflinger's 50% divided by 2)
25% Friesian blood (Arabo-Friesian's 50% divided by 2)
50% Arabian blood (25% from each parent added together)

If, on the other hand, you choose to reset the Arabo-Haflinger's blood, you will then have an Arabo-Haflinger with 100% Arabo-Haflinger blood.

If you cross this Arabo-Haflinger with the same Arabo-Friesian from before, you will then get a foal who has the following blood percentage:
50% Arabo-Haflinger blood (Arabo-Haflinger's 100% divided by 2)
25% Arabian blood (Arabo-Friesian's 50% Arabian blood divided by 2)
25% Friesian blood (Arabo-Friesian's 50% Friesian blood divided by 2)

Untracked blood:
If the calculation results in any percentage that is lower than 1.56, the 'breed' will be termed as Untracked blood. It will then be treated as one 'breed', meaning that the unknown percentages will be lumped together.

For example, if you cross a stallion who has 3% Friesian blood with a mare who has 3% Barb blood + 3% Don, the resulting foal will have 4.5% untracked blood. This is because:
Foal BBP = (3% Friesian / 2) + ((3% Barb / 2) + (3% Don / 2)) = 1.5% + 1.5% + 1.5% = 4.5% untracked.

The takeaway from 'untracked' blood is that the horse in question carries small amounts (less than 1.56%) of various breeds, where the larger the percentage, the more breeds were mixed.

5.H.5 Traits and Comparisons:
At the Horse Expert, you may notice the Horse vs. Horse Traits option for 10,000GD. This option allows you to compare the traits of two horses out of your list.

The horses can be of different breeds, but must be of the same Equine Type (e.g. you can compare two horses or two donkeys, but you can't compare a donkey to a horse.)

Cool! How does the comparison work?
The comparison works in two stages.

You first select the horse to which you want to compare the second horse. In other words, the first horse you select will be the 'baseline' or 'standard' to which the Horse Expert will compare the second horse.

You then select the horse which you wish to compare to the first horse. Upon selecting the horse, you'll get a report which shows how the second horse differs from the first horse.

t the bottom of the Comparison Report, you can click the "Export Data To Clipboard" button so you can paste it into your database of choice for further analysis. Right-clicking will copy the report in text format which you can paste into Word doc, Google Doc, etc.

Reading the comparison
Upon comparing the horses, you'll receive a list of all the traits in the game, next to each there will be a certain percent and the word "more" or "less". They way you decipher this is:

[Trait] of First Horse is X% more [or less] from [Trait] of Second Horse.

Let's say we compare a Dole to a Thoroughbred. We pick the Thoroughbred as the first horse (our baseline) and pick the Dole as the second (to compare it to the Thoroughbred). The report comes up, and lists the following:

"Leg Length Trait is 15.6% more
Musculature Trait is 24.7% less
Body Size Trait is 9.8% less
Withers Height Trait is 33.3% more"

Here's how to read it:
Traits that are "more":
The Thoroughbred has longer legs than the Dole (by 15.6%) and higher withers than the Dole (by 33.3%).

Traits that are "less":
The Thoroughbred has less musculature than the Dole (by 24.7%) and smaller body size than the Dole (by 9.8%).

I compared two horses that have similar conformation, and still got big differences between them. Is the test broken?
Nope. The test is fine. :)

There are many traits that control the conformation of a horse. This means that while two horses might look similar, the similarity stems from different combinations of traits that, when aligned together, generate a similar look.

For example, the length of the neck is mainly controlled by the NeckLength trait, but is also affected by the height of the neck, its shape, its angle, and the overall size of the horse. The length of the back and legs can also make a horse appear to have a short or long neck even though they don't affect it directly.

This means that horses can appear to have a neck of the same length even if they vary in their exact NeckLengt.

What the test does NOT compare:
Before you spend 10,000GD on the test, remember that:

It does NOT compare genes.
The comparison compares only traits. It won't show if horses differ in their genes. To compare the genes of horses, you must genetically test each horse and then compare their reports.

It does NOT compare performance metrics.
While performance metrics depend on the horse's traits, they are are not traits themselves. Therefore, comparing two horses won't compare their traits.

What is this test good for?
This test is perfect if you found the horse of your dreams and you want to breed more horses like it, but are unsure which horses to use. By comparing different horses to the ideal horse, you can choose which horses have the greatest odds to produce foals that are similar to your ideal horse.

This test is also good for those really hardcore players who want to dig deeper into the relationship between traits and performance metrics. How? We'll let you figure this one out. ;)

Good luck with your breeding projects!

I) Profiles

5.I.1 Affinities:
Every horse in Horse Isle has something in the world that they love more than anything- so much so that they will seek it out to be near it. If a horse with their Affinity still unfound is left to roam, they may even look for it on their own!

Affinities are totally random. They cannot be passed on from parent to foal, so breeding two Crystal horses together will not get you a Crystal foal. :)

Bringing up the Trick wheel while a horse is out (SHIFT+Z) shows a magnifying glass, which will tell the horse to look for its affinity. If your steed shakes their head when you ask them to play 'find the affinity,' then it's not within range. If they take off, however, keep up! Your horse will go up to 100m away from you to seek out their affinity and only stop once they've reached it. You can see the location of your horse on the game Minimap up in the corner, displayed as a black X.

List of Affinities

Strangely, there are only a certain range of affinities a horse will have. None of them seem to like anything in the water, though most seem to like things you can use... others are not so helpful. Here is a listing of every affinity known to us and what they do:

Berries- A horse with a Berries affinity will find any kind of berry bush out in the world if it's nearby.
Rocks- A horse with a Rocks affinity will find and point out any collectable rock in the area for you.
Cave Entrances- This affinity means the horse will seek out both open and closed entrances and exits in a cave or out of one.
Wild Horses- A horse with this affinity absolutely adores wilds and will go make a new friend!
Critters- These horses will find and make friends with any wild critter in the world, from bears to bunnies to boars and everything else that doesn't start with a 'b,' too.
Poison Ivy- Concerned with the safety of their fellow equines, these horses will find Poison Ivy and request that you kindly pick it up. They will not be injured by it while seeking it out, but it does not give them immunity to it.
Treasure- A rarer affinity, these treasurefinders will seek out plushie crates, pots of gold, and other findable treasures out in the world.
Flower- The flower affinity is one that will make a horse seek any flower, including the rarer ones.
Epics- Horses with an Epic affinity will actively seek out the large, mysterious structures in the world. Players can usually see them before a horse can, but these horses like to help. We suppose it can be useful if you can't see the epic because it's flat or hidden by trees?
Tappable Trees- These sap-seeking horses will actively look for dragonblood, maple, and rubber trees to fill your sap buckets with.
Gemstone- These equines love all things shiny, and will try their hardest to find cave gems like diamonds and citrine.
Crystals- The rarest of affinities, these horses look for imbuement crystals in caves.
Minigames- Another rare affinity, these horses will find minigames in the area for you to play together!
Fruit- The horse will seek out any and all fruit- they're not picky about what kind as any fruit makes them happy. Even cactus figs.
Stick- A horse that seeks out Sticks isn't just on the hunt for sticks... they're content to find you a fallen log, too.
Ore- Ores are things you can mine underground, like gold, platinum, and silver. Funnily enough it's also what a horse with this affinity says when they find an ore deposit. "Mine!!"
Mushroom- With this affinity, your horse hopes your inventory has mushroom for their favorite thing ever. They'll seek out and locate edible mushrooms, not mushroom colored horses. :)
Spices- These horses like adding flavor to everything and will have you collect their favorite things ever, like basil and cinnamon.
Sweets- All horses enjoy treats, but these ponies like to find sweets! Honey and sugarcane will be easier to find, as well as marshmallow root, which are naturally sweet in Horse Isle.
Quest Starters- These horses love helping you find your newest adventure, and will lead you to Adventure Tables and the World Center ancient quest book.
Courses- These horses will hunt down course starts, if you ask it of them. They're very good at it!
Cloth- We're not sure if they just like soft things or are saying something about wanting more tack, but these cloth fiends will hunt down any plant that provides cloth.
People- Horses with an affinity for people will seek out those nearby to be around. Great at ruining a game of hide-and-seek or just for picking their own friends!
Essence- An Essence affinity means the horse will find and collect Essence orbs nearby. All horses are drawn to the shiny orbs, but these horses know how to pick them up!

Every horse has an affinity. It's just a matter of finding it!

5.I.2 Customizing Horse Profiles:
Always a favorite feature of the Horse Isle Games: customizing horse profiles! We have some very basic HTML that you may use to prettify a profile and we have included the instructions on how to format it here. You'll need to take out the spaces in the formatting or it won't work!

Bold- You may bold text using < b > text here < / b >

Underline- Underline is < u > text here < / u >. Really good for putting emphasis on something.

Italic- This tilty text is created with this: < i > text here < / i >

Strikethrough This can be used if you wish to retract something but still keep the information up by using < s > text here < / s >

Center- You may center your text by typing < align=center > text here < / align >.

Indent- you may indent paragraphs by typing < indent=20% > text here < / indent >. The 20% is an example, you may indent it further, but at that point you might as well use center ;)

Smallcaps - This super neat bit of text is produced by typing < smallcaps > your smallcaps here < / smallcaps >. (It's not supported in the help center on the main website, but trust us when we say it looks really neat!)

Supertext- Supertext can be produced by typing < sup > supertext here < / sup >

Subtext- can be created by typing < sub > subtext < / sub >

Sizing- You may use < L > 18pt font here < / L > and < M > 15pt font here < / M > to have reasonably sized, larger fonts in your profile.


This is an easy one. Typing < #FF0000 > will start coloring text red. < /color> will stop the color tag.
More examples:
< #00FF00 > Green Text < /color>
< #0000FF > Blue Text < /color>
< #FFAAAA > Pink Text < /color>
< #808080 > Grey Text < /color>

Additionally < color=red> will work. (Only for the following colors: black, blue, green, orange, purple, red, white, and yellow.)

You can find color hex codes (#FF0000) many places, and the easiest way to find a good color may be to google "Color Picker". Their form is two digits of Red strength, 2 digits green, finally two blue. and hex digits range from 0,1,2..9,A,B,C,D,E,F So, F is a stronger color than 9 :) i.e. #000088 is dark blue, while #0000CC is brighter, while #0000FF is brightest only-blue possible. :)

5.I.3 Exporting to Computer:

There comes a time in (almost) every player's life when they really, really wish they could look at their beloved herd when they're not online. You're able to with a fairly simple process!

CTRL/COMMAND+E to export the profile (CTRL for PC, Command for Mac and Linux.) The image save location- where it just went to in the depths of your computer- can be found in the system chat in-game after you've exported it. Follow the file path on your computer to see all the pretty little horses :).

Note: This is just an image file export. You cannot edit the profile or see the profiles of horses you have not exported yet.

5.I.4 History Page:
Ever wondered about the story of your horse? If so, then their History page is the place to start digging into their past!

The History page lists useful information about your horse, such as their birthday and the number of times they won competitions and shows. Most importantly, it lists everything there is to know about their origins, breeding, and, well, history. ;)

1. Parentage:
The sire and dam of the horse appear at the top of the page. Plus, if they are still alive in the game, then there will be a link to view their profiles, thus allowing you to write the pedigree of your horse! (Go to Pedigree and Lineage > Pedigree for more info.)

Most importantly, the history page shows the breed of both parents at the time of conception. If you ever wish to re-identify your horse at the Horse Expert, then these are the breeds that the expert will take into account (see Types of Horses > Breed identification).

2. Blood Breed Percentage (BBP):
The BBP lists the 'breed content' of your horse in percentages. It has nothing to do with breed-identification or purebreeding. It is simply there to let you know which breeds had the most influence over your horse.

The BBP is calculated as follows:
(*Sire BBP / 2) + (*Dam BBP / 2) ==> add up in case of a joint breed ==> output = BBP.
* - at time of conception.

Some horses carry untracked blood, which simply means that they carry tiny amounts (less than 1.56%) of various breeds, where the larger total 'unknown blood' percentage, the more breeds were mixed.

For more information about reading, calculating, and managing your horse's BBP, go to: Horses > Pedigree and Lineage > Breed Blood Percentage (BBP).

3. Favorite human:
Lists the player who was the first to give the horse in question their most favorite treat (see Care > Treats). If it lists "Not awarded yet", it means that if you can still be awarded the horse's 'favorite human' if you give them their favorite treat. :)

4. Notable events log:
Includes the useful following information-
* Horse ID - a number unique to your horse.
* Horse's origins - when the horse was ordered/bred/caught wild, as well as by which player. If it was bred, then to which parents (name + ID) and whether or not an amulet was involved.
* If an infinitum amulet was ever applied - then when and by who.
* Previous owners - who were the previous owners of this horse.
* If the horse was ever bred to other horses - then to which horses. Note that the total number of times that the horse was bred is listed under the horse's birthday.

Additional optional offspring information:
If your horse was ever bred to other horses, the History page will list:
* The total number of times that your horse was bred.
* A link to the profile of the more recent foal that the horse had if they are still in the game.
* A link to the profile of the horse to which it was last bred to, if they are still in the game.

5.I.5 Prefixes:
Prefixes are the freezebrands of Horse Isle. They are permanent and cannot be removed or hidden once applied unless it's YOUR prefix on YOUR horse. You cannot remove a prefix on a horse that came with one unless the owner agrees to do an Unprefix trade.

An Unprefix trade will allow the OWNER of the prefix to remove the prefix from your horse without resetting bond or removing the horse from your account. Easy peasy.

A prefix must first be registered at a Clubhouse- your first prefix will cost 100 essence and the price will increase with each additional prefix.
There will be two 'checks' prior to getting your new prefix- the first tells you that it's available to use and the second will confirm that you wish to purchase the prefix.

To apply a prefix to a horse, simply select it from the dropdown in their profile, located under their name!

A prefix may be retired (deleted) if no living horses are registered with it. Retiring a prefix does not refund your essence.

Can I see a list of every horse with my prefix?

Unfortunately, no, as this can potentially be a list that is hard on both your computer and on the server to retrieve (some prefixes have upwards of 2,000 horses in them!)

5.I.6 Ranking Horses:
You have the option to rank your horses (rank 1-9999) from their profile, and choose a default rank from your profile, which all foals, wilds, and new horses are sorted into. (Be sure to save your profile any time you adjust these new ranks.)

Horses are grouped in their ranks by the 100's to make things a little cleaner in the horse lists, especially those with many, many horses!

You are free to use the ranks as you wish, they're simply there for easier sorting of your horses.

5.I.7 Scrapbook:
The Scrapbook allows you to take snapshots of your horses through their entire lives, exactly how they were when you took the snapshot. This includes everything they're wearing at the time, too!
You can unlock scrapbook pages by accessing your profile through the Myself tab. Pages are inexpensive at first, then increase as you unlock more pages- this costs the same amount of essence as unlocking things in your Travel Journal.

You can add a horse to your scrapbook by clicking "Scrapbook" on their profile; once this is done, they're permanently recorded through your profile, an image that lasts even after they've passed away!
You can add multiple snapshots of the same horse to each horse page, which will allow you to see how the horse has visually progressed over its lifetime. The pages are REALLY big, so don't worry about one horse taking up your entire scrapbook ;)
You can press the Prev/Next buttons to navigate the Scrapbook.

You're not just limited to seeing your own scrapbook, either; you can view anyone's scrapbook by looking at their profile!

5.I.8 Searching:
You may search your horses either by using a %search chat command or by hitting the "Search" button on the bottom of the page. Clicking the ? button up top will bring up your last search in any horse menu.

You may search the following:

Prefixes - Handy for finding horses with a certain prefix, especially if you plug in other parameters.

Gender - Will allow you to search all mares/stallions/geldings.

Name - Allows you to either look for similarly named horses or just for one specific horse.

Age Groups - Allows you to search for all horses within a certain age group.

Rank Ranges - Allows you to search between a certain rank range.

How does this help??

Easy! This handy search feature will allow you to say... search Mares between 4-19.9 years old, go to the Ostlery, click the search button... and then ONLY care for horses in that search parameter. Or search for a horse you want to enter in a show. Really, the possibilities are quite endless :)

5.I.9 Styling:
Ostlers aren't just for taking care of the horses of the rich and lovely... they're also for making your horse show-ready! For a reasonable fee, you may style and color your horse's mane and tail. If you no longer wish for your horses to have a styled mane and tail, you may also pay the ostler to 'undo' their hard work!

A horse that's gotten their hair done will say so in their profile, and at the bottom of their profile photo it'll say "Styled."

To view what a horse naturally looks like, check out their "4yo" button. This will reveal not just the horse's stats and natural metrics as they were at four years old, but what their mane and tail actually look like, au natural.

J) Stats

5.J.1 Overview:
When you look at stats for a foal or a newly caught wild, you will see the current measure of the five basic statistics we track for each horse. Purebreds will have definite statistical limits for each trait, although individuals will vary within those limits; grades can be anywhere on the map.

Stats have been divided into Base Stats, which are absolutes, and Performance Metrics, which show how the base stats and conformation and so on all interact. Because of this, you may have a horse who has immense strength (high base STR) but is a lousy jumper (low jump power), since while she has much strength to pull a load forward, her conformation doesn't allow for the upward spring a good jumper needs.

5.J.2 Base Stats: Overview:
We keep track of five base statistics in the game.

AGI Agility determines how fast a horse can stop and start, and how tightly it can turn.

END Endurance determines how long a horse can work before tiring.

INT Intelligence measures how good a horse is at figuring things out on its own.

SPD Speed is a measure of the top speed a horse can reach in a full-out sprint.

STR Stength is a measure of how high a horse can jump, or how big a load a horse can pull.

In all cases, a value of 250 is average. A value of 500 is as high as a horse can be born with. The lowest a horse may be born with is 0.

Stats a horse is born with are shown in blue, and you'll see a grey area above this, showing the maximum you can achieve with this horse.

A horse with a genetic stat of 500 will have a trained and tack max of 980.

That's because there's more than genetics to base stats :)
Every training session will give your horse 25 points of experience (or 50 with the Equinition tome,) and this is very important! Experience and bond also make up a good percentage of training. Tack, experience, and bond will round out the rest of a horse's training points. The full layout is as follows:

Training at Trainers: 300 points (10,000 points in training)
Experience: 40 points (0-10kEXP points)
Extreme Experience: 30 points (10k-100KEXP points)
Bond: 30 points (0-10k Bond)
Tack: 70 points
Plushies: 0 to 10 points (depending on the plushie)


This will hopefully help you figure out your horse's stats effortlessly... with no math involved!

Genetics: This is what stats your horse is naturally born with. It will never change.
Training: These stats will constantly fluctuate until your horse is fully trained- this includes training at a Trainer, Bond, and Experience.
Bonus: This is your horse's Esroh Blessing count. Each horse can have a maximum of 20 Esroh Blessings per stat.
Tack: This is the total imbument level of the horses's worn tack.
Left: This signifies the absolute total of stats your horse has left to 'earn.'
Max: A horse's maximum potential- it cannot go higher than this. A horse with 500 Genetic Stats will have 1,000 total with 500 to earn.

For more in-depth information about base stats and their implications, please read the Base Stats and their Implications guide in Horses forum:

5.J.3 Performance Metrics:
While base stats give an overall picture of a horse's capabilities, Performance Metrics give you a much more specific view of how well your horse is currently doing in particular areas. Performance Metrics are largely based on the conformation of a horse. They change with training and the addition of appropriate tack. Performance metrics will give you additional insight to how much a horse's abilites have been changed by training. For stats with a blue bar, more is better. With a red bar, less is better.

Stride Length In the game, this is the measure of how much ground a horse's leg would cover from it's furthest point forward to its furthest point behind. The longer a horse's stride length, the farther (and generally, the faster) it can go with a minimum of effort.

Speed How fast a horse goes on flat ground at a full, but not forced, gallop, in miles per hour.

Sprint Boost How much faster than the previous a horse can go at a full sprint.

Acceleration Rate How quickly, in meters-per-second per second, a horse can get to full speed from a standing start.

Deceleration Rate How quickly, in the same measure, a horse can stop from a full gallop.

Turning Speed How fast a running horse can make a tight turn, measured in degrees per second. So if you have a horse with a 60 degree-per-second turning speed, it will take him three seconds to make a 180 degree turn.

Reverse Speed How quickly your horse can back up if it has to, in meters per second.

Jump Power How high and fast a horse can get off the ground, in meters-per-second per second in the vertical.

Fear Tolerance Horses are notoriously nervous by nature, but some will carry on regardless to a greater or lesser extent. This is a measure of how likely a horse is to set aside its fears because you asked it to. The scale goes from the timidest milquetoast of a horse to the Will Take All Comers fearless beast.

Pull Strength How heavy a load a horse can pull. This should give you an idea of their overall strength.

Stamina Drop Some horses tire easily; some can run for hours. This is a measure of how quickly a horse loses stamina per second.

Reaction Time Some hot-blooded horses seem to react to things almost before they happen; some coldbloods are asleep on their feet and seem to have been so for years. This is a measure of how quickly a horse will react to things happening around it, particularly any directions you give it.

SLED These are measures of how well a horse can pull a number of sledges/sleds of the same weight. The more there are, the less force a horse can apply to any one of them.

For more in-depth information about base stats and their implications, please read the Performance Metrics guide in Horses forum:

5.J.4 Height:
Horse Isle is host to both teeny tiny miniatures and towering giants.

Minimum Height The smallest a horse's adult size in game is 5.1hh, or 21 inches at the shoulder.

Minimum Riding Height The smallest a horse can be and can still be ridden is 12hh.

Maximum Height A horse may get as tall as 22.2hh, a truly mammoth sized beast of a horse!

A taller horse isn't always better, though, as size will often make it harder for a bigger horse to lift herself for a jump or to move very quickly due to her bulk.

5.J.5 Bareback:
The best trained horses in game with the most experience, ridden by only the most experienced riders, may be ridden bareback.

What are the requirements for bareback riding?
Bareback riding requires 50,000 horse experience and 250,000 player experience.

WHAT? That's way too much!
This replicates real life horses- you're not going to jump on an untrained or partially trained horse and stay on them without tack, nor will an inexperienced rider be able to stay on even the most experienced horse. (We mean, you could try, but it's not going to be an enjoyable experience for anyone, and as it has the potential to be very dangerous, we do not recommend it.) At 50,000exp, we consider a horse rather adequately trained- not fully trained, as that takes until 100,000exp- but we don't want to be TOO mean. With this training level, a horse is much less likely to act foolish without tack!

Is there any benefit to Bareback?
Nope. It just shows off how much experience a player has, a nice little achievement gained from many hours of hard work and effort put into the game. It IS achievable by all players, given enough time. It may take some players longer to get there, but if the effort is applied, the reward is considered by many to be worth the effort.

5.J.6 Base Stats: Genetic Ranges and Caps:
Every equine in the game can achieve up to 500 non-genetic stat points via training, plushies, tack, etc. However, when it comes to genetic ase stats, different equines have different genetic max caps:

Horses: AGI: 500; END: 500; INT:500; SPD: 500; STR: 500. [Total: 2500]

Zebras: AGI: 350; END: 450; INT:500; SPD: 425; STR: 300. [Total: 2025]

Donkeys: AGI: 350; END: 450; INT:500; SPD: 250; STR: 500. [Total: 2050]

Mules/hinnies: AGI: 400; END: 500; INT:500; SPD: 350; STR: 500. [Total: 2250]

Zorses/hebras: AGI: 400; END: 450; INT:500; SPD: 450; STR: 350. [Total: 2150]

Zedonks/donkras: AGI: 350; END: 450; INT:500; SPD: 350; STR: 350. [Total: 2000]

Can I breed beyond those caps?
No. You can only breed up to the max listed above.

For example, you can breed donkeys to have up to 250 points in speed, but you can't breed them to have more than that.

Why did you put those caps?!
In order to create the donkeys, zebras, and hybrids, we used the same basic "horse" conformation and tweaked it as necessary. Those tweaks led to unrealistic performance metrics that were better than those of horses. In order to balance those metrics, we imposed genetic caps on base stats.

In other words, the cap on genetic base stats ensures that a zebra will never be stronger than a pony of an equal size, or that a donkey will never be faster than a horse of an equal height.

5.J.7 Esroh Blessings:
Esroh Blessings are minor stat boosts given to your riding horse as you explore with them. Please Note: It will take a very long time to get all the Esroh Blessings on a single horse, about 300 hours of riding.

Agility Blessings are earned while riding down gentle slopes (3% and higher) and up steep slopes (6% or higher.) You may also find your horse earning them while jumping!

Endurance Blessings are the easiest to earn as they're earned just by riding around!

Intelligence Blessings are earned by following a trail or by having your horse seek out their affinity. Please note that the horse must actively be walking towards their affinity to trigger an Intelligence Blessing!

Speed Blessings are earned while sprinting!

Strength Blessings are earned while pulling a stone sled in draft competitions or by pulling a cart.

5.J.8 Gaining Experience:
Competing in course competitions is a great way to gain experience- we have several ways for a horse to learn more about the world around them. While there's no upper limit, please note that the benefits of experience will cap at 10,000exp.

Grooming: Grooming will net a small amount of experience as the horse learns to stand still. This only has any benefit if the horse's groom actually improves!

Training: Training a horse will grant 25 points of experience per training session.

Riding: For every kilometer you ride on a horse, that horse will benefit by getting 10 points of experience!

Course Competitions: Your horse can gain a LOT of experience in shows. They say you learn more in a single competition than you do in a month of training- and it's very true in Horse Isle! The more competitors your horse beats and the longer the course, the higher the experience gain.

Horse Shows: Your horse learns a lot from being well liked in horse shows, too. The more judges and horses there are in a show, the higher the EXP payout!

Giving Birth: A mare learns a LOT after delivering a new foal- 250EXP! Bringing a new life into this world is definitely a learning experience for her.

5.J.9 How to Train a Horse:
Different club villages have trainers who can train your horse in base stats. Not all villages can train in all stats, and trainers in different villages will charge differing fees, so shop around for the best deals!

A horse must be listed as "In Training" in order for them to show up on the training list. A horse is given a set amount of points per trait, and each training will give him a percentage of points in that stat. Each horse has a max 'bank' of trainings, or the number of trainings a day they're capable of that regenerate over a period of time. Every horse gets the same amount of trainings per stat- he will benefit most from traits he's already good in!

Every training session will give your horse 25 points of experience, and with the Equinition tome, 50 points of experience.

But why can't my Competitor be trained?
A Competitor horse is assumed to have been fully trained, so they don't show up on the Training list. :) This is to keep your Training list free and clear for horses that you're actually training- too many horses on that list could be very daunting a list, indeed!

5.J.10 Personalities and Experience:
A horse's personality may affect their ride-ability unless they've got quite a bit of experience under their belt (err... cinch.) Experience benefits cap out at 100,000 points. A VERY experienced horse also gets a 5% boost to their stamina!

You'll begin to see improvements in personality as soon as your horse starts racking up the experience points- it happens slowly, not all at once. There's no magic button that will make them learn it automatically; their personalities don't improve with just a few training sessions. It takes a lot of dedication to get one of these more difficult horses to behave!

A Stubborn Leader (25% stubborn, 25% leader) may decide that the direction you've chosen just doesn't work for them. The more experienced the horse is, however, the less frequently they'll try and move you about (or spin around in useless circles.) At 10kEXP, they're five times less likely to spin you right round...
This is a unique personality trait in that even if ONE trait is under 5% and the other is close to 25% and the horse is over 10kexp, the horse will still spin, though not as often as they used to.

A Stubborn horse will frequently rear if you're not on them, just for the sake of being stubborn. As they become more experienced, this behavior will decrease.

A Skittish horse will outright refuse to move in certain areas or gets terrified at bones, certain jumps, or water touching their feet. Once they learn more about the world, they'll only freak out about half as much as they used to. When you're not on them, a spooked horse may also rear at the scary thing!

An Ornery horse will get tired of you riding them pretty quickly and will buck you off! They may also rear. With enough training, though, they'll buck you off less frequently (five times less likely to buck at 10kEXP.) This trait starts expressing at 25% Ornery/Playful.

An Antisocial horse doesn't like being around a lot of other horses and riders, and will toss you off to go hide or just have a panic attack if there's too many people there. Once they get some experience, you'll notice that they begin to tolerate crowds more. At 10kEXP, only a horse that's 5% social will just refuse to move in very crowded areas; they'll still tolerate more (up to 5x more players allowed nearby before antisocial freakout with 10kEXP, with the range being 5-12 players at 0% social to 25% social untrained.)

A Lazy horse (25%) will slow down almost as soon as you stop urging them forward (instead of keeping the gait you requested.) At 10k EXP, all but the very laziest (5%) will learn to keep their pace up.

5.J.11 Trick Training:
A horse may be taught a number of tricks! Hitting SHIFT + Z will bring up the horse emote wheel for the horse you've got placed. Among these tricks, you can teach them the following:

Shake Hands - The horse offers you its hoof to 'shake.'
Shake Head 'Yes' - The horse will nod on command.
Shake Head 'No' - The horse will shake its head from side to side.
Piaffe - A flowing, trotting in place motion most commonly used in Dressage.
Levade - A controlled motion in which the horse raises the front end of their body and holds it. (NOT a rear!)
Bow - The horse will take a bow, curling one front leg under its body and placing the other front leg out front.
Sit - The horse will sit on their haunches.
Look At Me - The horse will look at you, on command.
Stretch- The horse will stretch forward on command.
Capriole- The horse will leap upward, their front hooves tucked under their chest and their back legs kicked out backwards.
Pin Ears- The horse will pin its ears like it's mad at something.
Rear- The horse will enter a controlled rear.

From this menu, you can also tell a horse to stop following trails. This will prevent the horse from following ANY trails until they're put away. You'll need to tell them "Don't Follow Trails" every time you wish for trail-free riding. ;)

Ok, that's neat... but how do I train them?

For starters, you'll need to hit SHIFT+Z to pull up the trick menu and select a grey trick. This is an unlearned trick, and you'll be working on learnin' them something. ;)

Teaching a horse a new trick relies entirely on the fact that the horses of Horse Isle are incredibly treat motivated. Still, this does require a fair bit of patience. A horse needs to perform the trick properly and then you'll need to reward them with a treat! Not just any treat, however...

1 Yum gives a 25% chance of the horse learning the trick permanently.
2 Yums gives a 50% chance of the horse picking up the trick.
3 Yums will give a 75% chance of learning the trick.
4 Yums, the horses' favorite treat ever, will give a 100% chance of learning the trick.

A horse with a lot of intelligence will ALWAYS learn a trick faster than a horse that.... might need a few more visits to an Intelligence trainer.

If a horse learns a trick, they'll gain plenty of experience from their lesson and you'll be able to ask them to perform the trick every time, no treats required!

If a horse fails to learn the trick, you'll need to start the trick training process all over! Please note that your horse will gradually become more moody if they fail to learn the trick... keep an eye on their mood bar. A horse in a bad mood won't want to learn at all! A horse may also do any number of things before learning the trick... which can be just as entertaining as the trick itself.

You may also find that, should you teach enough tricks, you'll be eligible for the Trickster Award!

A Note on Rearing

Rearing is very dangerous and has caused many real-life injuries! A rearing horse is not a well-behaved horse. Rearing cannot be performed while you are on the horse, as this is dangerous and not something we wish to encourage. A controlled rear may be taught to a real-world horse to better control them in an uncontrolled rear, but should be taught by a professional trainer.

K) Tack

5.K.1 Bareback:
You may mount a horse by going to its profile and clicking 'mount,' with or without tack.

Unlike the first two games, you're able to ride a freshly caught horse bareback. This is not without its risks, however!

Saddle: Without a saddle, you're going to fall off often and your horse won't move very fast. Your horse will move at a fraction of its normal speed.
Saddle Pad: You can't actually put a saddle on without a saddle pad first, the horses don't like it (very uncomfortable!) and won't let you put the saddle on without one.
Bridle: While you can ride without a bridle, this is very difficult as you've got very little steering control and your horse just won't stop as quickly as they would with a bridle.

For these reasons, it's recommended that you get yourself some tack as soon as possible.

5.K.2 Tack Sets for General Use:
The minimum needed to ride a horse in comfort and safety is a bridle, saddle and saddle pad (also called saddle blanket, though here we use "blanket" to mean what Europeans mean by a "rug"). All tack must be crafted at a Workshop and can be dyed any color you like.

Tack Styles:

Western: This functional leather tack set is the classic set of cowboy tack.
English: This sleek tack is the classic set of English tack, and is suitable for many disciplines.

Where to Get Tack:
Tack must be crafted or purchased from another player.

A Note:

You must pair English Saddles to English Saddle Pads and Western Saddles to Western Saddle Pads. This ensures a proper fit on the horse and the Ultimate in adventuring comfort for all!

5.K.3 Decorative Tack:
Decorative tack is tack you just put on for fun, but isn't required. These items all must be crafted in a workshop or purchased from another player, and can be dyed any color you like.

Polos are usually used to protect a horse's legs from sticks and rocks while riding, but here they just serve the purpose of looking nice.
Bows are worn on the dock of the tail and sit rather nicely.
Bonnets are a cute piece of tack worn over the ears.
Blankets, or rugs to those in Europe, cover the entire body of the horse, protecting them from weather. Those made in Horse Isle stay on without straps, hugging the horse somehow.

5.K.4 Imbued Tack:
Adventurers have discovered a magic in these isles that has the curious ability to improve their horses, but one that cannot be applied directly TO a horse. After many experiments (including one mishap with a pair of shoes and the Speed imbuement...) we have discovered that the best way to harness these magics is by applying them to tack!

Every crystal is aligned with a certain horse stat- Agility, Endurance, Intelligence, Speed, and Strength. The crystal colors are purple, red, blue, green, and yellow- the color of the crystal will match up with the color of the stat it improves on the horse's profile page.

To Imbue Tack:

This is a very complicated magical process, but we were able to simplify it by hiring other, smarter people to actually imbue your tack with magical energies. We've housed these magicians at the Imbuer in club towns, where they work independently from the club's coffers (meaning a club will not get the money from tack being imbued there.)

Make sure you've got the crystals and gold dust required! It's not so expensive for the first few levels, but it is VERY expensive to max out an entire set of tack (roughly 6 million gold dust per piece) and will require a LOT of crystals!

An Imbuer can improve a tack's stats up to the following for each, in every stat:
Saddle: 30 points
Bridle: 20 points
Saddle Pad: 10 points

There are seven levels of imbuement, so each tack piece can be improved 35 times before it's maxed out. It's fairly easy to see which of your items in inventory have been imbued, as they're the ones with the colorful tag after the item name and the icons will shimmer with their imbued magic! The tack, when placed on a horse, will be brighter than normal, with the edges glowing the combined colors of the imbuements placed on it. The brighter the glow, the stronger the imbuement!

Plushie Imbuement:

Plushies will give the same imbuement as a saddle pad, but this cannot be adjusted. Plushies just won't show up in the imbuery window- we're pretty sure that however long they've been in the caverns, they've soaked up as much of the magic as any one plushie can.

Where to Find Crystals

These magical crystals are found in caves throughout Horse Isle.

5.K.5 Horse Shoes:
Horseshoes: While crafting a set of horseshoes, you'll find that the land naturally imbues them. Crafted horseshoes will naturally have a set imbuement of 5-50, and it is entirely luck based (though the Blacksmith library specialty will double your minimum, ensuring no horseshoe set you craft will be lower than +10.) This imbuement cannot be changed.

The imbuement minimum of +5 may be laid over each stat- so it's totally possible to get a 0-0-0-5-0 horse shoe. Horse shoes you no longer want may be melted down at a cost of -500 energy and one coal, due to the heat requirement being higher in Horse Isle to melt a horse shoe down. (Horseshoes that can survive a Warm Caldera cannot be melted down with a merely lit furnace!)

5.K.6 Plushies:
Scattered around the underground caverns are very special crates- nobody quite knows where these sparkling crates come from, but they each contain something a horse wants very badly- a plushie!

For some reason- perhaps because they've been in the caves for so long- the plushies of Horse Isle give a magical stat boost while equipped to your horse, similar to a saddle pad. Your horse can only have one plushie at a time. Every plush will have some sort of imbuement on it, but the boost is random, though the absolute minimum is +7 (overall- not per stat.)
The maximum total imbuement for every plushie is +50, or +10 in every stat. A +50 plushie is very rare!
These cuddle buddies come in a very wide variety- from dogs to cats to chickens to elephants, there are so many plushies your horse may have a hard time choosing which is their favorite!

With the Lucky Plushie library tome, the minimum random imbuement is increased from 7 to 14 (total stats.) Collecting enough plushie crates will give you the 'Cuddly Collector' award!

Plushie crates don't respawn in the same location, but will spawn continuously in caves as other treasures do. There is no limit to how many will be out in the world. A cave might have no crates or it might have more crates than you can count!

L) Types of Horses

5.L.1 Hot, Cold, Warm?:
You'll see this a lot in the horse world- the three 'blood' types of horses. This doesn't mean that these are the actual blood types of horses, but rather a description of their temperament!

Hot Blood horses are those with a fiery, independent spirit and massive reserves of endurance. The breeds in this group typically have an Oriental heritage, such as the Akhal-Teke and all Arabian types. Also included in this group are the Barb, Thoroughbred, Andalusian, and Spanish-Barb.

Cold Blood horses are the calm, gentle horses historically used in farmwork and for transporting heavy loads. Draft horses (see above) fall into this category, as well as some pony breeds.

Warmblood horses are the in-between, temperament wise. Most horses fall in this category, which includes breeds such as the Mustang and the Lipizzaner (who are good examples of warmbloods despite not having Warmblood in the name!)

For more in-depth information about these three types, read the entries about "Grade Hot-blooded Horse", "Grade Cold-blooded Horse", and "Grade Warm-blooded Horse" in the Big Book of Breeds.

5.L.2 Horse Types and Definitions:
You may notice that, in the lands of Horse Isle, we have many different types of horses. We stick very closely to the type definitions, ensuring that the miniature horses don't get mixed up with ponies or draft ponies :)

Miniature Horse: This is both a breed and a horse type. This is a true horse, not a pony, as they have the same proportions as a standard riding horse. They are not rideable in Horse Isle (or real life!) and are typically used for driving or in-hand jumping in real life. The Falabella and American Miniature are the most well-known miniature horses.

Riding Horse: The riding horse is the type that comes to mind most when the word 'horse' is brought up. He has clean bones and slender legs that are often longer than his barrel. The most common examples of riding horses are Quarter Horses, Thoroughbreds, and Arabians.

Gaited Horse: A gaited horse is any horse capable of performing an ambling gait, which is a smooth 4-beat gait faster than a walk. This gait usually replaces the trot, and in some breeds, even the canter. Among the most famous examples of gaited breeds are the Peruvian Paso, Tennessee Walking Horse, and Missouri Fox Trotter.

Fine Harness Horse: The fine harness horse is a slender yet strong type of horse that is bred to excel in pulling carriages and light carts in a fancy manner. Their legs are long, their neck carriage is high, and their knee action is high and showy. Examples of such horses are the Hackney and the Dutch Tuigpaard.

Draft Horse: The draft horse is the king of pulling. He is typically very heavily muscled and is the strongest of the horse types. While we picture most drafts being feathered to some degree, this is not always the case- some draft breeds are clean-legged. This horse group is home to both the giants and the ancient farming horses. The best-known examples in this are the Shire and Belgian.

Cob: A cob is a small horse with a sturdy build, and is often stockier than what you'd call a riding horse. They have strong bones and thick joints, and resemble small draft horses. Gypsy Vanners fall into this category.

Pony: A pony is a small horse (typically under 14.2hh) with strong legs, and a small, stocky, 'rounder' conformation. They have good endurance, and most of them have impressive strength for their size. Similar to horses, ponies can be further divided into subtypes, such as 'riding', 'draft', and 'harness'. The Shetland Pony is the most famous and recognizable pony breed, but there are many, many others.

For more in-depth information about types of horses, read the entries about the various grade horses in the Big Book of Breeds.

5.L.3 Wild Horses:
Wild horses -- not to be confused with lucky finds -- are horses with various coats, stats, personality, and conformation traits, that roam wild all over Horse Isle except in deep waters or populated areas.

Not so wild stats...
As a general rule, the stats of wild horses are far from great, and although you can find gems here and there, these gems are nowhere near a well-bred horse. The conformation of wild horses is also often off, with some of them looking like equine aliens...

Erm.. are wild horses even good for anything?

Wild horses are an extraordinary source for all sorts of wacky, exaggerated conformation traits that don't exist in official breeds, e.g. super short/long heads, weirdly gigantic/tiny hooves, overly short/long legs, and so much more!

Many hardcore players also adore them, because creating 'real-life' breeds out of wild horses is one of the most difficult challenges in the game. It requires the careful breeding of dozens if not hundreds of generations, just like it took with creating most horse breeds in the real world!

And who said you must create a 'real' breed? You can create any type of horse you want, from stumpy, 'sausage looking' to giraffe looking equines- possibilities are endless!

Alright, I'm hooked! Where do I find them?
Simply explore the various biomes of Horse Isle while staying far from clubs, and you'll shortly bump into one. Biomes matter, because the exact genes and traits of wild horses relate to the biome in which they were spawned.
Tip: read about the Biomes in the Library of any club to learn about the type of wild horses that roam in each biome.

If you don't have time searching for them, you can also summon wild horses to you by going to the Shop (near the Travel button'), and purchasing a disposable Wild Whistle for 100 mobia. This will call for 8 wilds around you, whose characteristics will be in accordance with the biome in which you are standing.
NOTE: Before whistling, please make sure you have enough barn spots for catching all of the eight wilds.

Sounds awesome. How do I catch them?
With either a lasso (requires practice) or a treat (requires plenty of various treats to try). For more info, go to: Getting started > Horses > Your first horse.

Good luck! :)

5.L.4 The Big Book of Breeds (BBB):
This marvelous book, which is accessed at any club's library, contains everything that one needs to know about each of the breeds in Horse Isle, starting with information about the real breed in real life, all the way to its breeding, appearance, and performance metrics in Horse Isle.

Each into is roughly divided into the following sections:

Naming and qualities:
Every intro starts with the name(s) of the breed, its country of origin, and what is it known for (if it is known for something).

Background, trivia, and usages:
If the information is available, then the first section in the breed info will be the real background of the real breed: history, important milestones, interesting information, it'll all be there.

In addition, there will be a section about what the breed is known for and used as in real life. This can give you a general idea of what this breed's performance metrics are geared towards in Horse Isle.

Breeding and related technical details:
Some breeds have particular breeding rules. For example, crossbreeds that are created by crossing specific breeds together, or breeds that have open studbooks. The breeding section lists the breeding rules for the breed in the real world, as well as the breeding rules in Horse Isle.

A comprehensive list of all the breeds that a breed can have as parentage and be crossed with is found under the breed's technicals details, at the bottom of the page. You will need to click the button there in order to open this list.

If you plan on breeding a particular breed in Horse Isle, always read the Breeding and the Technical Details sections before you start the breeding project.

In this section, there is a brief description of the appearance of the breed when it comes to conformation and hair type (mane, tail, and, if relevant, feathering).

Just like with the previous sections, the information in this section relies on the real breed's standard or, in case that such a standard doesn't exist, credible descriptions.

Performance metrics:
The information in this section is relevant only for horses in Horse Isle, and only for ordered and lucky-find horses of the breed in question. It is irrelevant for bred horses.

Here, you'll find the: Range, Average [mean], (Standard deviation), Margin of error.
of all of the performance metrics except for mass*, stride length*, and fear tolerance**.
* Both are not performance metrics by themselves but merely components of other performance metrics.
** Too random.

How to read it?
The range indicates the rough upper and lower limits for that metric for the breed (i.e., the minimal and maximal values you can generally expect horses of that breed to have). Some horses may fall outside this range, but they are generally more likely to be closer to the average than to the limits.

The standard deviation and margin of error are intended for players who wish to have a more accurate estimation of the possible metrics of such horses.

That said, the numbers in the BBB are only a guideline, and there is always a small chance that when you order a horse, their performane metrics will be outside of the range for better or worse.

How did we calculate these numbers:
We took a sample of 100 randomly spawned horses of this breed, and calculated the following:
Range: ranges from the lowest value (min) that was spawned to the highest value (max) that was spawned.
Average: this is the mean of the metric as calculated for the 100 random horses.
Standard deviation (SD): this is one SD from the mean.
Margin of error (MOE): calculated with 95% confidence level.

Colors & Height:
This section lists all of the colors and patterns that exist in the breed. Some breeds also have additional notes if:
-- crossing parents with certain colors might end up with penalized/grade foals.
-- some patterns are limited (e.g. horses of this breed can't be too dark/light, can't have too many markings, etc.)
-- some colors/patterns don't occur in the breed naturally but can be bred into it.
-- there are any other relevant information regarding the coat of the breed.

At the end of this section, there is the height range in hands (hh) for the breed.

Technical Details:
Found below the Colors & Height section, although you will need to click the button to open the information.

It lists:
1. Breeds that can create the breed in question.
2. Breeds with which the breed in question can be crossed.
3. The type of which the breed in question is classified as in Horse Isle. It is relevant for shows/competitions that allow only horses of that particular type.

For more info about using the information in the Technical Details section, please read the guide about parentage, purebreeding, and the BBB in Horses forum:

Some of the information seems incorrect?
All of the information in the BBB is based on credible sources, such as literature written and published by academics, and information posted on the official websites and pages of the breed's association/registration/society.

That said, there are hundreds of breeds in the game, and many of the breeds were created several years ago. New discoveries about the origins or genetics of breeds (e.g. from genetic or archeological studies), as well as updating the standard of a breed by the respective association, can happen at any time, and might be difficult to track.

If you find any information which seems to be outdated, then feel free to post about it in Horses forum together with a link to a credible source showing that the information is outdated. We'll do our best to take a look and update the BBB if necessary. :)

5.L.5 Breed standards and penalties:
If you look at horse breeds in real life, most breeds have a set standard for conformation and, in some cases, coat colors as well. Members of the breed are graded or scored based on their conformation, and their final score determines whether they belong to the breed in question or not. In Horse Isle: Infinity Wilds, we took a similar approach.

Wait. Why should I even care about breed standards in Horse Isle?
Let's say you love one of the most famous racing breeds in the world: the Thoroughbred, and you want to breed Thoroughbreds in the game. Thoroughbreds, just like any other breed in the game, have a unique breed standard. In order to breed them, you must ensure that the conformation and color of your horses fit the standard of the Thoroughbred, or you won't be able to register them as Thoroughbreds.

Register [in Horse Isle] = having the Breed on your horse's profile listed as the breed in question.
For example: registering a horse as a Thoroughbred means that the Breed on their profile will show "Thoroughbred".
The same applies to every breed in the game.

In order to register a horse as a certain breed, the horse must fit the standard of said breed.

How do breed standards work in Horse Isle?
Each breed in the game has a breed standard that dictates which conformation and coat colors/patterns the ideal members of the breed have in the game.

Horses who deviate from the standard receive a penalty. The penalties are in the form of a percentage, and a horse must have below 100% penalties in order to be registered as the breed to which the standard applies. If a horse has 100% penalties or above, they cannot be registered as the breed in question.

What if a horse fits several standards?
There are many cases where one horse has conformation and coat that fit the standard of several breeds. In fact, it is very common among sport warmblood breeds, both in the game and in real life. ;)

In Horse Isle, the game will register the horse as the breed which it resembles the most. In other words, it'll pick the breed to which the horse in question has the least amount of penalties.

For example: if a horse has 59% penalties against the Holsteiner's standard, and 37% penalties against the standard of a different breed called Hanoverian, then the game will register the horse as a Hanoverian.

You can change the game's decision by going to the horse expert and re-identifying the horse.

Where can I find the detailed breed standards of the breeds in the game?
The breed standards in Horse Isle are not "visible" in the game. Only the server (the backstage operator of the game) can see them. However, you can read about the breed's standard under the Conformation section in the breed's info in the Big Book of Breeds which is found in every library.

What if I want to breed Thoroughbreds who don't fit Horse Isle's breed standard?
You can definitely do so by starting an in-game certification (registry) to "register" your horses as Thoroughbreds.
That said, the "breed" on their profile won't be "Thoroughbred", but any breed/type the game registered them as.

For more info about certifications, go to:
Help files > Horses > Pedigree and Lineage > Certifications

5.L.6 How do I tell which type/breed my horse is?:
The type/breed of every horse is written in their profile. However, if their profile says "unidentified", it means that you'll need to identify them at the horse expert.

To identify a horse's type/breed, simply go to a horse expert. They live in most club towns, in a building with a magnifying glass above its door, and will be happy to identify your horse's type/breed for the humble fee of 100GD.

Click the building > view > identify a horse > choose the horse you want to identify.

The horse expert will compare your horse's conformation and colors to the existing breed standards of all the breeds in the game, and will always identify the horse as the breed/type that your horse resembles the most (read 'Breed standards and penalties' above). That said, priority will be given to breed subtypes.

Is there a quicker or a cheaper way to identify a horse?
In the case of wild horses that you catch- yes.

Simply go to the library to learn the Keen Eye specialization which allows you to identify instantly the type/breed of every wild horse which you capture. Note that it takes two days to learn this specialization, so don't expect immediate results. ;)

Why should I even waste time on identifying my horse's type/breed?
Knowing the type/breed of your horse has several benefits:

1) Some traders, and most players, will buy only horses who are identified as a specific type or breed.

2) Many competitions and events are intended for horses of a particular type or breed.

3) The identification and purity of foals depend on the breed of their parents. Having an unidentified horse as a sire/dam will reduce the foal's purity, and might lead to them being identified as a different breed than what they would be identified as if their sire/dam were identified as well.

In summary...
Do you have to identify your 'unidentified' horse? Of course not, but if you are interested in selling/competing/breeding your horse then it might be worth the 100GD it costs to identify them. :)

5.L.7 Re-identification: what it is and when to use it:
Re-identification is the process of registering an already identified horse as a different breed than they are if they fit the breed standard of more than one breed. It is done by the Horse Expert.

-- If you don't know what 'registering' or what 'breed standard' means in the game, or don't know how breed standards and penalties work, then please read the file 'Breed standards and penalties':

-- If you don't know what 'identification' of a horse is or who the 'horse expert' is, then read the file 'How do I tell which type/breed my horse is':

Main breeds vs. Breed subtypes:
In order to understand re-identification, you need to be familiar with the idea of main breeds versus subtypes of main breeds.

A main breed is any official horse breed whose breed standard fits only this one, particular breed.

For example: a 'sport warmblood' is not a main breed, because there are several sport warmblood breeds who fit the standard for sport warmblood. Holsteiner, Hanoverian, Oldenburg, these three all fit the generic standard for sport warmbloods.
An Oldenburg, on the other hand, is a main breed, because its breed standard is different from that of any other horse in the game, including from other sport warmbloods such as Hanoverians and Holsteiners.

A breed subtype is any subtype within a main breed. The subtypes will fit perfectly, or, in rare cases, almost perfectly, into the standard of their main breed. Main breeds can have several subtypes.

For example: 'Modern Oldenburg' and 'Alt-Oldenburg' are subtypes of the main breed 'Oldenburg'.
The breed standard of the Modern Oldenburg is different than that of the Alt-Oldenburg (Modern Oldenburgs have a lighter conformation), but both of these subtypes fit perfectly the breed standard of the generic Oldenburg.

When re-identifying the horse at the horse expert, you can choose between identifying a horse as a main breed or a breed subtype, depending on the type of re-identification.

There are five types of re-identification:
You can switch between re-identification types using the toggle button above the horse list in the re-identification page. The five types are:

1) Most specific sub breed- the expert will aim at registering the horse as a main breed or sub breed while giving priority to breed subtypes. This means that if a horse has less than 100% penalties against the breed standard of at least one of the breed subtypes, then the expert will always register the horse as the most fitting subtype, even if they have less penalties against one of the main breeds.

2) Best main breed match- the expert will register the horse as the best matching main breed, ignoring sub breeds completely.

3) Attempt mother's breed only - the expert will check if the horse in question fits the standard of the breed of their mother (dam), as written in their history. If they do, they will register them as the mother's breed.

4) Attempt father's breed only - the expert will check if the horse in question fits the standard of the breed of their father (sire), as written in their history. If they do, they will register them as the father's breed.

5) Attempt best non-parents purebreedings - the expert will prioritize breeds for which your horse will be considered purebred while ensuring that they are different from the breeds of their parents. This option is excellent for identification of pure crossbreds.

Purity might be RESET to 0%!
As part of re-identification, the horse expert will check if your horse should be purebred or not. If your horse falls into one of the following groups, their purity will be reset to 0%:

1) Missing parent/s - If one or both of your horse's parents don't exist in the game anymore, the horse's purity will be reset to 0%.
-- You can check if the parents are in the game by going to the horse's history page and seeing if the profiles of their parents are still available. If one of the profiles is missing, then the parent in question is not in the game anymore.

2) Horse parentage breaks the purity rules of the new breed - Some breeds have purity rules which specify which parents, breed-wise, a horse must have in order to be a purebred member of this breed. If you re-identify your horse as a breed whose purity rules don't allow one of the breeds of the horse's parents, then your horse's purity will be reset to 0%.

For example: the purity rules for Thoroughbreds specify that a Thoroughbred must have two pure Thoroughbred parents in order to be considered a pure Thoroughbred. Therefore, if you re-identify your purebred horse as a Thoroughbred, and one of their parents is not a Thoroughbred, then your horse's purity will be reset to 0%.

Remember: it is your responsibility as the horse's owners to check if your horse's parents are in the game AND if their breeds fit the new breed's purity rules before you confirm the re-identification of your horse.

Remember to confirm
If the horse expert manages to find a new breed to re-identify your horse as, they will inform you of what the new breed is and will ask you to confirm. Confirmation is done by clicking twice on the confirmation button.

If you don't confirm, the expert will not register your horse as the new breed.

As a general rule...
Be careful with re-identification. NEVER confirm the re-identification of your horse unless you are certain that they are going to be purebred, or unless you are willing to accept the possibility that their purity will be reset to 0%.

The Horse Isle staff won't edit profiles of horses who were re-identified by mistake, so it is your responsibility as the horse's owners to be sure of your choice before you re-identify them. =)

5.L.8 Donkeys: Overview:
Donkeys have long been used as a beast of burden, carrying packs and pulling carts (among other uses) for even longer than horses have. It is also thought that there were multiple domestication events- meaning cultures domesticated them separately, without help or knowledge of others having domesticated them. People knew from the start that these adorable creatures were very useful.

It should be noted that donkeys are not horses. They can interbreed with them to create hybrids, but due to Haldane's Rule (explained further under Hybrids,) these mules and hinnies- the result of either parental crossing- can never have a foal.

But there's recorded mule foals!
Yes, but even the Romans had a saying for a rare, almost impossible event- 'when the mule foals.' There have only been 62 recorded molly mules giving birth to foals since the 16th century!

Donkey Hair

Some donkey breeds, like the Poitou, are incredibly hairy. We have different types of this wooly gene- ranging from the lovely, fluffy silky to the heavy, matted type.

The wool does not hang off of the donkey's body as donkeys in Horse Isle apparently produce a self-clinging static. This is very handy in allowing all tack types to fit all donkeys no matter how much hair they have!

If you are interested in in-depth info about the donkey coat-hair types, as well as about mane styles and the genetics behind them, then please visit the following detailed guide in Horses forum:

Donkeys need different tack!

In the real world, yes, this is true, as their backs are wildly different to horses. But Horse Isle has saddle magic- the same saddle that fits a 22.2hh Grade Draft Horse can fit a 5.1hh Grade Miniature Horse.
This is due to the fact that the leather in Horse Isle comes from Wonderland mushrooms, which grow to astronomical sizes. The leather created from these mushrooms maintains that same growth magic, though we haven't quite figured out how any of that works.

5.L.9 Donkeys: Color Genetics:
You may have noticed that donkeys have a different array of colors to horses. As said in the Donkey Overview, donkeys are not horses. They have a different genetic set and different color and pattern names.

The color names are not, unfortunately, very creative. Save for Ivory, Cameo, and Russet, you'll find that any bay donkey will just be called 'bay,' with no indication of the color shade name. This is not a mistake on our part, this is simply how donkey colors have been named!

For in-depth info about all of the color genes that donkeys have, what they do, which donkeys they affect, and what are they called like, please visit the following detailed guide in Horses forum:

If you only want a brief explanation, then continue reading below. :)

Agouti (A,Ap,a,at)- This gene affects the distribution of black and red pigments in the donkey's coat, and determines if a coat will be black, brown-black, or bay/brown (the latter depends on the Extension gene).
Extension (E,e)- controls the amount of black pigment in the donkey's coat. An ee donkey is red.
Light Points (Lp,lp) - This gene, when expressed, gives the donkey lighter points around the eyes and muzzle. In rare cases, a donkey will have no light points (NLP), in which case it will be listed on their profile as 'NLP'.
Spotted (Sp,sp) - Spotted donkeys are loudly colored, with white splotches of color starting from their legs.
Tyger (Ty,ty) - This gene gives the donkey a 'long' spot pattern, more like a smear than you see in Spotted.
Grey (G,g) - This isn't actually grey as we see it in horses. The grey gene in donkeys gives the coat a fixed grey color.
Pangare (Pg,pg) - This gene is behind the white 'mealy' hairs on the donkey's legs, abdomen, chest, and jaw.
Smokey (Sk,sk) - The Smokey gene in donkeys mixes grey hairs into the coat, thus making it look lighter and slightly greyer.
Cameo Ivory (ic,C,Iv) - This gene gives donkeys a 'diluted' coat unique to donkeys. The shade depends on the base color of the donkey ;)
White (W,w) - This whitening gene causes a donkey coat to be completely white.
Missense Albino (Ma,ma) - This gene turns a donkey completely white as it is a gene that causes a donkey to express albinism.
Russet (R,r) - This gene affects the lower-leg color of bay and chestnut donkeys.
Roan (Rn,rn) - Mixes white hairs into the coat of the donkey.

What about MUTATIONS?

Donkeys cannot be Tetrarch, Bleach, or Lace due to a lack of the grey gene.
Donkeys can be Mosaic, Flash, or Bend Or, though these are still quite rare.

As donkeys do not have white markings (save for a star,) the marking requirement for mosaic has been removed.

5.L.10 Mules and Hinnies:
Mules are often cited as being the world's oldest manmade hybrid, with the hybrid being recorded as far back as 3000BCE. They are calmer than horses, less stubborn than donkeys, and fairly long-lived at any size. They are used for saddle, draft work, packing, dressage, jumping, racing, and any other discipline you might set a horse to (they take their jobs very seriously.)

Mule: A mule is the product of a donkey sire and a horse dam.
Hinny: A hinny is the product of a horse sire and a donkey dam.

For the sake of this writer's fingers, every hybrid in this family will be called a mule.

A note on Hybrid Animals:
Hybrid mammals are, except for very rare cases, sterile (infertile) due to chromosomal differences between the parent species. In mules' case, a horse has 64 chromosomes and a donkey has 62 chromosomes. This different structure and number will render nearly every mule infertile.
Therefore, in Horse Isle, mules and hinnies are always infertile.

But there are recorded mule foals!
Yes, but even the Romans had a saying for a rare, almost impossible event- 'when the mule foals.' There have only been 62 recorded molly mules giving birth to foals since the 16th century!

Max Genetic Base Stats:
AGI: 400; END: 500; INT:500; SPD: 350; STR: 500. [Total: 2250]

Mule Colors:

Mules and hinnies have the rather fun trait of being a combination of both mom and dad's patterns and colors. Champagne mules exist where champagne donkeys don't; a red dun mule can have the normal 'horse' red dun with an absolutely enormous shoulder cross. You could say that everything about this particular hybrid has hybridized!

For in-depth info about all of the colors and patterns that mules have, as well as the genetics behind them, please read the detailed guide in Horses forum:

If you only want a brief explanation, then continue reading below. :)

Mules come in most dominant patterns and colors that are found in horses, as well as some donkey patterns and some completely unique ones.

But most importantly, mules CANNOT:
Be albino
Be double-Dilute cream (IE perlino, cremello, or smoky cream)
Be frame Overo
Be manchado
Be mushroom
Be pearl (including cream-pearl)
Be rabicano
Be full-body corn roan
Be sabino (though they can have White Spotting)
Be splashed-white

In addition, due to the hair structure of their donkey parent, mules cannot be metallic. While champagne mules may appear metallic, they are not true metallic as the hair structure is different (as seen under a microscope) and doesn't allow metallic sheen.

5.L.11 Zebras:
Zebra history

Zebras have long fascinated people with their dazzling coats and strong, familial attachments, though they have never been domesticated. Their aggressive tendencies and generally foul personalities, along with their small sizes, have mostly relegated zebras to 'pasture pet' status, to those that are lucky enough to own one.

Any zebra over 12hh in Horse Isle, however, may be ridden. Their behaviors are mostly kept in check, here, as all current equines in Horse Isle long to be partnered up with the humans that have claimed these lands as their own. It may take a bit of doing, though... a zebra is naturally ornery and will frequently remind you of this up to a certain training point.

The zebras here, however, are still not domesticated. Tamed, yes, and even trained- but they are still a forever wild species.

Where Do I Find Them?

Zebras are most populous in the Savanna, where they make their home. They can also be found in Salt Flats and in Mesa biomes, though this is significantly less common.

Stripey Stripes

Every zebra species has their own striping patterns, and every zebra's stripes are unique, like a fingerprint. While each species follows its own striping rules, there are variations within those making each striped equine totally unique.

Following this, you may also notice that there are different color shades within zebras and may- rarely- find a partial albino or a blonde Plains zebra.


Zebras may be flash, bleach, or birdcatcher. These cannot be found in Super Horse orders- they may only be caught in the wild or bred as they require some interesting genes a Supered Horse just doesn't have.

Personality in Spades

Note: you cannot get "Perfect" persona in Zebras, they have a different min/max for some of the traits. They have slightly different personalities from horses, so they don't use the full range on chart for everything. Basically, this means you'll never get a zebra with 100% Perfect persona... it's just not in their nature!

Genetic Base Stat Max Caps:
AGI: 350; END: 450; INT:500; SPD: 425; STR: 300. [Total: 2025]

5.L.12 Zebroids: Overview:
While the different zebra species- Plains, Grevy's, and Mountain- all have different chromosomes, they're able to interbreed freely with each other in Horse Isle and have healthy, happy foals that can further go on to create more foals! Zebra crossbreeds will always be fertile.

The same cannot be said for zebra hybrids of donkeys and horses, however. Zebra hybrids, known collectively as zebroids, will always be sterile, meaning they cannot have foals.

What's in a Name?
Hybrids are often named in a way that essentially lets you know which parent was what. Zebroids are named as follows:

Horse Dad, Zebra Mom: Hebra
Zebra Dad, Horse mom: Zorse
Donkey Dad, Zebra Mom: Donkra
Zebra Dad, Donkey Mom: Zedonk
Zebra Dad, Shetland Mom: Zetland

How to recognize them?
The best way to recognize zebroids is by looking at their coats. If a "horse" or a "donkey" have vertical, non-brindle stripes over their legs and body, then they are a zorse or a zebra, respectively.

Unique coats:
There are three genes and five traits that control the patterns of stripes in zebroids, from the shape of the stripes to their scrambling, number, opacity, and more. This, together with color and pattern genes, ensure that each zebroid has a unique coat.

For in-depth information about the genes and traits that control stripe patterns in zebroid, please read the following guide in Horses forum:

5.L.13 Zedonks and Donkras:
If it looks like a donkey with stripes then this is a zedonk or a donkra.

Zedonk: A product of a zebra sire and a donkey dam.
Donkra: A product of a donkey sire and a zebra dam.

Max height:
Zedonks cannot be taller than 16.2hh.
Donkras cannot be taller than 15.3hh.

Max genetic base stats:
AGI: 350; END: 450; INT:500; SPD: 350; STR: 350. [Total: 2000]

Zedonk colors:
* The following applies to both zedonks and donkras.

For in-depth info about all of the colors and patterns that zedonks can have, as well as the genetics behind them, please read the detailed guide in Horses forum:

If you only want a brief explanation, then continue reading below. :)

Zedonks come in most colors and patterns found in donkeys save for a few. Nevertheless, their coats look more unique than the coats of donkeys thanks to the great variation in their striping patterns.

Note that zedonks CANNOT be:
Homozygous white-grey

5.L.14 Zorses and Hebras:
If it looks like a horse but has non-black-and-white stripes, then this is a zorse or a hebra.

Zorse: A product of a zebra sire and a horse dam.
Hebra: A product of a horse sire and a zebra dam.

Max height:
Zorses cannot be taller than 19hh.
Hebras cannot be taller than 15.3hh.

Max genetic base stats:
AGI: 400; END: 450; INT:500; SPD: 450; STR: 350. [Total: 2150]

Zorse colors:
* The following applies to both zorses and hebras.

For in-depth info about all of the colors and patterns that zorses can have, as well as the genetics behind them, please read the detailed guide in Horses forum:

If you only want a brief explanation, then continue reading below. :)

Zorses come in most colors and patterns found in horses save for a few. Even so, their coats vary greatly thanks to countless variations in their striping pattern, and thanks to the unique coloration that their manes and tails can have.

Most importantly, zorses CANNOT be:
'Regular' chestnut without dark points
Homozygous cream (cremello, perlino, smoky cream, etc.)
Homozygous white-grey

Gaited Zorses

If a Zorse/Hebra parent is an AmAm gaiter (both ambles and paces), the resulting zebroid will gene test as Amco but will double gait, even though zebras themselves cannot be gaited. We've sort of chalked it up to weird horse magic.

M) Wild Horses

5.M.1 Where to Find Wild Horses:
Wild Horses may be found anywhere but ranches and club villages, as long as it's on land and not on an island that will be sunken by the tide.

Horse types will vary by biome; checking the Library will give you the best idea of what horse types are caught where, from size to color to conformation and various traits, like whether they're gaited or have feathers or are metallic.

5.M.2 Wild Whistle:
For 100 Mobia, ($1USD) players may call eight wilds to them, belonging to the biome they whistle in.

A Wild Whistle is used immediately, right where you're standing, anywhere save for club villages and owned ranches.
Whistled Wilds only stay around for 30 real minutes, after which they scatter off into the wilds, having lost patience after being summoned.
Logging out and logging back in will not 'despawn' the wilds unless you happen to log out just before the 30 minute time frame ;)

NOTA BENE: If you whistle in a public area, those wilds are 'free game.' This means it's probably a good idea to whistle away from other players. As they are wild horses and unowned by anyone, they are unable to be 'stolen.'

5.M.3 Can I Catch a Breed?:
Every 1 in 250 wild horses will be a breed. Its purity will be 0% and its heritage unknown, but will otherwise be much like an ordered horse in stats and conformation (though some breeds that have subtypes will be a little skewed, eg a Paso Fino might share traits with a Cuban Paso Fino and that will give it a conformation penalty.)

How will I know a wild has a breed? I don't ID my wilds and don't have Keen Eye!

Easy! When you catch one of these rarities, you'll get a POW message (a popup on window) saying "Lucky Find!"

Does whistling summon wilds with a breed?

Yup, but the 1 in 250 chance remains the same, and even if you managed to whistle in 250 wilds you would roughly get about one breed. Whistling will bring you biome specific horses and ponies, but they won't increase your chances of out being one of the Lucky Find perfect wilds. Please refer to the Biomes section of the BBB for more details on the types of horses located in each biome.

Where are they?

Lucky Find wilds are... very lost. You'll find Shires on the Plains or Akhal-Tekes in the snow, with no explanation as to how they got there. They did not escape a local ranch, nor were they abandoned- they just sort of inexplicably pop up in the most unusual locations. Once you get an eye for a biome's horse types, the Lucky Find wilds are very easy to spot- as they're totally out of place!

My Westphalian Lucky Find doesn't look like a Westphalian!

Because the Westphalian is a Tier 4 breed, every warmblood you catch will initially identify as a Westphalian- if your horse doesn't match the Breed Info appearance of the horse you caught, it is not a Westphalian. You'll need to re-identify them using the Best Main Breed Match toggle. If you don't toggle this, it will not reidentify your horse!

My Lucky Find doesn't look exactly like the Library breed, but it's not a Westphalian!

You should re-identify it or get a conformation test if the horse is too far off what you see in the Breed Info panel. Lucky Find wilds should be perfect or near perfect in conformation.

5.M.4 Identifying:
You can identify your wild horses through the Horse Expert building in clubs (the building with the magnifying glass on it. This magnificent horse expert can tell you your horse's genetics, conformation, how it compares to other breeds, and, the purpose of this article: tell you what in Horse Isle you just caught!

This identifies your horse's breed. But if you think that's not a good match or you've caught a Lucky Find that doesn't match the library breed profile...


We have two types of reidentification in Horse Isle that are relevant for wild horses. The default is Most Specific Breed, which matches your horse to the best match in its conformation.

Most Specific Sub Breed matches your horse more directly- rather than identifying every Lucky Find warmblood as a Westphalian, this will better match your horse to the sub breed it actually is.

6) Players

A) Appearance

6.A.1 Changing Your Avatar's Appearance:
Personal Appearance

When you first log in, your avatar probably won't look very much like you -- or whomever you want it to look like. No worries! We've got plenty of ways to tweak it so you can look exactly how you want!

Click Myself, then Change My Appearance.

We're all the same height here in the Wilds, but we can change just about everything else. Click on the color swatches to change the colors of your skin, hair, eyes, and lips, and any facial hair you might happen to have/want. Click the < or > tabs to cycle through what's currently available.

The < and > tabs allow you to cycle through whatever clothing you happen to own. (By the way, all clothing can be dyed! More on that elsewhere!)

The sliders allow you to set all kinds of other things, from the set of your eyebrows and shape of your nose, to how skinny or not you are. Are you broad-shouldered or wasp-waisted? We can accommodate that!


When you first log in to the game, you'll be wearing a white shirt and white shorts. If this isn't your style, you'll either need to craft a new outfit at a Textile workshop on your own ranch or purchase them from another user.

Clothing, when you buy it, will be white. If you like white, you're golden (ahem) but if you don't, you can dye your clothing any color you want. See the section on Dyes for instructions.

6.A.2 Buddies and Clubbies:
Buddies and Clubbies work pretty much the same way here as they did on HI1 and HI2. The main difference here is that two buddies are allowed to buy parcels right next to each other. Buddies may also quick-travel to one another.

B) Emotes

6.B.1 Unlocking And Using:
Your avatar can wave, point and nod Yes or No and do several other things, or not, as you wish. You can unlock this ability by clicking Myself -> Emotes.

The game can automatically tell when you're trying to point something out, or saying hello or goodbye, and will use the Emotes assigned to them. Wave, Point, Yes and No are automatic when you sign up. Several other emotes are available for 100 Essence each, while the Dance emotes are 1,000 Essence each. Twist the night away! Jump for joy! Do the chicken dance! Get everybody kung-fu fighting!

C) Groups

6.C.1 Adventure Parties:
Adventure Parties are a way to get a group of people together for some purpose (for example, some of the minigames which require several people to complete). The chat for everyone involved in an Adventure Party is the same for all participants, whether they are buddies, clubbies or just people who happened by.

To gather people into an adventure party (assuming they wish to be in one! Please ask first!), click on the player and choose Invites, or type %ADDPARTY [playername].

Membership in an Adventure Party only lasts as long as the members are logged in. Members will show up on the Minimap as red dots, so everyone can see where everyone else is. As long as you're close to one another, people in an adventure party will also gain essence every time someone in the party collects some!

Adventure Parties also enable you to Lasso your party members should they get stuck or you'd like to take part in lasso jousting.

6.C.2 Buddies:
To add someone as a Buddy, click on that player and choose Invites, or type %ADDBUDDY [playername].
The person you're inviting will see a notice that you've invited them on the right side of their screen. They then have 5 minutes to accept or decline your invitation. If they don't respond in that time, the game assumes they have declined.

Once a player accepts your invitation, they are added to a permanent list of your buddies until you or they remove themselves.

Why Being Buddies Is Cool:

1) players hear your chat in "Buddies" channel (Though it doesn't work well for group communication because different players lists will differ.)

2) You can see your buddies if they're nearby in white on your mini-map.

3) You can quick travel to a buddy when looking them up in the Buddies online list.

6.C.3 Club Members:
Club members or "Clubbies" have their own chat channel. This is very useful for conducting club business, or taking part in club-sponsored activities. All members of the club see the same chat.

As a Copper member of a club, you'll be able to create a personal store (as long as you've got the money to set one up and there's an available store slab!) and other fun things. This is covered further in the Clubs section of the Help Center (Game - Club.)

6.C.4 Muted Players:
There are two kinds of player mutes:

Private Message mute will block a player from messaging you. Its command is %mute PlayerName.

A Full Mute will block a player from messaging you, looking at your profile, seeing your chats in any area (ads/global/area/party/help), or sending you mail.

A player circumventing (going around) a mute to contact a player that has muted them will have action taken against them, should the rule breaking be reported.

Either kind of mute is done anonymously and the player that has been muted will not know they've been muted until they attempt to contact you.

A moderator mute blocks a player from chatting at all for the time determined by the severity of the violation. An administrative mute can range from a few days to being permanent.

D) Player Moderation

6.D.1 Overview:
Rather than a very large moderation team, Horse Isle 3 allows for anonymous player moderation. We still have staff moderators, but a significantly smaller number than most games do or even our prior games.

Won't players abuse this?
There may be some that try, but abuse of the player moderation system will net a higher penalty than the person that they're flagging would have gotten.

Why aren't you having a big moderation team?
Realistically, a big moderation team has typically always ended up in an Us vs Them mentality and makes for bad blood between the players and the moderation team. Then come the rebellions! Players tend to not rebel if there's not anything to rebel against, and keep cooler heads. As mentioned above, we still have some moderators, but they are generally in charge of general peacekeeping and making sure chat rules are followed.

Why'd you bold anonymous up there?
If you flag someone, don't tell them you flagged them. The system is anonymous for a reason (except to the Admin and Support team, who can see all of your flagged chats.)

We'll go deeper into the flagging system in the next couple sections, and briefly touched on it in the Chat section, as well.

6.D.2 Flagging a Chat:
We suggest only flagging a chat if it's not family friendly (circumvention of the filter to sneak in a swear word, politics, religion, talking about illegal activities, or triggering emotional subjects.) This game is free for ALL people to enjoy, and people have a hard time enjoying a horse game when Global Chat looks like an emotional mosh pit.

To bring up the chat flagging interface, simply click on the offending chat three times. You'll then be prompted to select what punishment you think the chat's author needs to settle down a bit there and any notes for context.

When Not to Flag

Sometimes, people just need a gentle reminder of the rules. You can guide them to our Rules page at the bottom of the site; please do this at your discretion, and remember that abusing the chat flagging system is just as bad as breaking the rules ;)

Please do NOT immediately flag an obvious mischat- accidents happen and players need to be given the chance to recant a wrong chat. Flagging it makes it impossible for players to do so.

Our rule page is - remember them well!

Examples of Flag vs. No Flag

A few examples that may help are below. These only apply to public chats and profiles.

1. Birthdays

Players are allowed to say "It's my birthday!" but crossing the line into how old they are on that birthday is flaggable.

2. Locations

Players are allowed to give state/province locations. They are not allowed to give city locations.

3. Other Media

Players may not mention any game, movie, or book (or any other media, for those that want to cross hairs!) that depict violence.

4. Horse Names

Much like the above, horse names are dependent on a few things. A horse may be named after an alcoholic drink, for example, as many horses in real life are named after them; a horse may not be named after the act of drinking. If you wish to name a horse after media, please ensure that the first Google page does not reflect any kind of violence.

For example, many horses are named after Skyrim dragons. Their pages are generally just the lore about the dragons themselves, not the violence depicted.

5. Player Profiles

Players may describe what kind of media they're interested in; if the specific show or game has violence immediately displayed on Google or is evident on the first page clicked, it's best to just say you enjoy Shonen anime or high fantasy TV interpretations of popular novels.

6.D.3 Chat Violations:
My Account page says I have violations!

Is it green? It's not a violation, but an action you took against another player.

Is it red? Someone flagged your chat because they felt it broke the rules. (Maybe read them a little more!)

How do I get rid of my chat violations?

We could make you write sentences, but you'd probably just copy and paste "I shall not break the rules" a thousand times. Have no fear, though, as chat violations vanish from your account after 60 days. If you've just broken a couple minor rules, they'll sit there and watch you in disappointed, red judgement to ensure you don't do it again.

So I won't get banned?

If you keep racking up a bunch of violations, there's a chance you could be banned from the game, yes, especially if you make a habit of it. If you do something REALLY bad, you can absolutely get banned.
There's also the potential that you'll be muted from chatting with other players if you misbehave, so simply try not to :)

So our biggest suggestion: don't break the rules and you'll be fine.

As a reminder, the rules are here:

6.D.4 Mod Trust Score:
Your Mod Trust Score is what allows you to flag a chat. You may view your Mod Trust Score by typing %mod into the chat bar. You cannot view the Mod Trust Score of someone else.

You gain points by being an active player- building barns, being an active member of a club, playing the game, and paying for membership. We believe that the higher value you put on your account, the more likely you are to protect it (and not falsely flag someone!)

You will lose points if you're flagged (and admin reviewed.) You will gain points for correctly acting upon a chat that violates the rules.

E) Profiles

6.E.1 Overview:

Your Profile is where you can let other people know about YOU! The game already provides information about your game (your stats, horses, club information, whether you're a subscribed member or not, and awards.)

We do have some rules, though:

No personal information- no sharing your age, where you go to school, your address, email, or anything that might link you to being you. This is for safety reasons! We want you to be safe and not worry about strangers on the internet.

No using your profile to be mean to others- As the site rules say, this is Horse Isle, don't be a donkey! If you have a problem with someone, mute them (%mute playername) and ignore, your profile should be about how YOU play and your game!

In all things, remember the game's site rules when preparing your profile for public viewing.

The Rules are here:

6.E.2 Customizing Your Profile:
A player may customize their profile (Myself - Edit your shared profile details) with very basic HTML. Here's a quick list of the ways you can prettify your profile (You'll need to take out the spaces, the Help Center REALLY doesn't like it when we try to do text boxes:)

Bold- You may bold text using < b > text here < / b >

Underline- Underline is < u > text here < / u >. Really good for putting emphasis on something.

Italic- This tilty text is created with this: < i > text here < / i >

Strikethrough This can be used if you wish to retract something but still keep the information up by using < s > text here < / s >

Center- You may center your text by typing < align=center > text here < / align >.

Indent- you may indent paragraphs by typing < indent=20% > text here < / indent >. The 20% is an example, you may indent it further, but at that point you might as well use center ;)

Smallcaps - This super neat bit of text is produced by typing < smallcaps > your smallcaps here < / smallcaps >

Supertext- Supertext can be produced by typing < sup > supertext here < / sup >

Subtext- can be created by typing < sub > subtext < / sub >

Sizing-You may use < L > 18pt font here < / L > and < M > 15pt font here < / M > to have reasonably sized, larger fonts in your profile.


Typing < #FF0000 > will start coloring text red. < /color> will stop the color.
More examples:
< #00FF00 > Green Text < /color>
< #0000FF > Blue Text < /color>
< #FFAAAA > Pink Text < /color>
< #808080 > Grey Text < /color>

Additionally < color=red> will work. (Only for the following colors: black, blue, green, orange, purple, red, white, and yellow.

You can find color hex codes (#FF0000) many places, easiest may be to google "Color Picker". Their form is two digits of Red strength, 2 digits green, finally two blue. and hex digits range from 0,1,2..9,A,B,C,D,E,F So, F is a stronger color than 9 :) i.e. #000088 is dark blue, while #0000CC is brighter, while #0000FF is brightest only-blue possible. :)

F) Shiny Players

6.F.1 Overview:
Have you ever looked at your player character and said, "Gee, I wish I could make myself glow. I also want a different name plate color?" If so (and who hasn't,) the Shiny Player system is just for you. There are far more benefits to throwing money into this, but we figured we'd make you say "Oooh, shiny" first.

How it Works

Every "Shiny Player Point" costs 50,000 gold dust. The 100 players with the most Shiny Points will be able to pick a shiny body glow and an emoji that can be displayed over their head (you don't need to pick either if you don't want them.) Shiny Players also get a set of Ruby Slippers they can use from their Equipment for free home ranch travel.

Every player that has Shiny Points gains an extra horse slot... even if they've already hit the 1500 horse max. These extra horse slots are limited to 500, though you're welcome to continue buying more shiny points if you'd like a top spot!
Shiny Points decay at 10% every month, so if you have 10 Shiny Points, you'll need to replace one per month. You do not need to be subscribed to invest in Shiny Points.

G) Specializations

6.G.1 Overview:
Specializations are learned at a Club Library.

A player may choose a specialization to make their game more in tune to what you want your game experience to be like. Non-subscribers are limited to one, and subscribers may choose two. (If your sub expires, you'll be limited to your first one.) A player with 50,000 experience may select three! Furthermore, if you earn 10,000 Puzzle Points, an additional specialization may be unlocked. A player with 10,000 Quest Points will ALSO earn another specialization! Additional tomes may be earned at 100,000 Puzzle Points, 100,000 Quest Points, and 10,000,000 Player Experience.
There are currently 26 different specializations for you to choose from, each putting a different twist on the game that is totally unique to Horse Isle 3 (though some of your favorites have carried over!)

Do you want to increase a mare's chances of twinning? Want to know what a wild horse's breed is without needing to ID it? Or are you a horse hoarder that just NEVER has enough space?

The topics in this section will describe what each specialization does and how it will affect your game.

6.G.2 Horse Song:
This specialization teaches you an ancient song to sing while caring for your horses, making the time fly by!

Grooming, feeding, and watering are twice as fast.

6.G.3 Harvester:
This tome teaches you the old ways of harvesting, and how to gain more from harvesting resources. It doesn't always work, but quite frequently you'll find that you're collecting DOUBLE the resources!

Increases chances of double collection by 25%.

6.G.4 Crafter:
Written by those who have spent WAY more time crafting than anyone else, this tome teaches you the secrets of how to craft while using less Focus energy (by quite a bit!)

50% reduction in focus costs for crafting.

6.G.5 Traveler:
A Traveler is so skilled in traveling, they've learned how to do it while using considerably less travel energy. This is a great skill to learn if you're a person who quick travels so often you're wishing you had a bigger travel bar!

25% Quick Travel reduction for all trips.

6.G.6 Nimble:
A Nimble person has become so adept at collecting, they spend far less energy than anyone else while felling even the largest trees or deforesting an entire larch forest.

33% reduction in energy used while collecting resources

6.G.7 Lucky:
Some people are born SUPER lucky. In Horse Isle, this is actually a skill you can learn. A person specialized in Lucky receives TWO wishing coins per day while subscribed- this tome has no benefit to a non-subscriber.

One additional wishing coin given per day.

6.G.8 Merchant:
A Merchant has learned the secrets of more store space- for every one slot they have, they can put two items in it! (It makes you wonder how big the inside of these club stores actually are.)

6.G.9 Horse Hoarder:
This has long been a favorite from Horse Isle 2, and we've brought it back over to Horse Isle 3! For those with ever increasing horse numbers, this is the perk for you.

Increases number of horse slots by 10%. This does not increase over the standard 300/800/1500/2000 (Nonsub-sub-mobia-shiny points.)

6.G.10 Horse Nutter:
What, 10% not enough? Maybe 10% is too much? Horse Nutter enables you to have an increased number of horse slots- 5% of what your base is.

Adds an additional 5% horse slots. This does not increase over the standard 300/800/1500/2000 (Nonsub-sub-mobia-shiny points.)

6.G.11 Horse Trader:
Some people are naturally gifted at convincing others a horse is worth much more than its typical base value... luckily, it's a skill you can learn!

50% more gold from horse trader.

6.G.12 Green Thumb:
A person with a Green Thumb is SO good at gardening and growing hay that everything on their ranch doubles up at harvest, making everyone else green with envy! If you've ever wondered how they do it... it's definitely this perk.

Doubles ranch production output.

6.G.13 Builder:
For those that want to see rapid growth (or maybe just want to collect fewer resources per building!) this is absolutely the perk for you.

Reduces club and ranch building material costs by 10%.

6.G.14 Double Bubble:
Do you REALLY love having a bunch of foals so much, you wish your mares would have more than one at a time? The knowledge gained from this perk increases the chances of your mares having twins. Since the magic of Horse Isle allows a mare to safely deliver her twins without trouble, this is considered a very good thing!

Increased Chance of Twins (10%)

6.G.15 Geneticist:
This perk is PERFECT for breeders who seem to spend their day begging the Horse Expert to test their horses. If the cost is getting a little bit of a chokehold on your gold dust and mobia purses, this one's probably an ideal pick for you.

50% reduction in genetic and conformation reports

6.G.16 Keen Eye:
This specialization allows you to immediately identify the wild horse you just caught, using techniques taught by the Horse Experts. It doesn't work for horses others have caught, though, which is just one of those mysteries of Horse Isle we haven't worked out.

Wild Horse identification is instant.

6.G.17 Explorer:
Explorers are players who have gone so far in the game that they find they run out of Essence before they run out of interesting places to explore and log in their journals! This perk is just for them- they've learned how to conserve journal space and use their slots more efficiently.

Double the number of journal entries (two unlocked for every slot unlocked with Essence.)

6.G.18 Savant:
After learning this, you'll grasp an understanding of how to get more out of completing a minigame.

50% higher reward for each minigame completed.

6.G.19 Equinition:
Some people have the ability to get their horse to learn things very quickly; in the case of those with the Equinition specialization their horses learn twice as much.

Doubles the experience rate for any horse owned by the player, but does not increase rate of EXP for the player themselves.

6.G.20 Horse Heart:
Those with the Horse Heart specialization are those that are so deeply in tune with their horses and what they like that their horses bond with them twice as fast.

Doubles the bond rate for your horses.

6.G.21 Horse of Course:
Ever feel that a single course unlock per slot just isn't enough? Us, too! With the Horse of Course tome under your belt, you learn how to manage your competition course spaces better. For every course slot you unlock, you'll be able to build TWO competition courses.

Doubles number of available course slots per slot unlock.

6.G.22 Scrapbooker:
If it's not in the scrapbook, it didn't happen! Well. It did, but this specialization allows you to have double the amount of scrapbooking pages.

6.G.23 Blacksmith:
This tome will allow you to craft your horseshoes with a little more 'oomph,' doubling your minimum shoe imbuement. (+10 instead of +5.)

6.G.24 Essential Essence:
Essential Essence gives you an additional essence for every essence you collect- instead of one for nonsubscribers or three for subscribers, you'll get two and four essence collected, respectively.

6.G.25 Focused Training:
Focused Training grants a 50% increase to cost AND training benefit. So, 300 rather than 200 points earned, but costs 50% more also. This will enable your horses to be trained that much faster!

6.G.26 Lucky Plushie:
With the Lucky Plushie tome, you will automatically know how to pick only the best plushie crates.

This specialization doubles the minimum imbuement level of any plushie found in crates from 7 to 14 (both numbers being out of 50.)

6.G.27 Ostlery Club:
The Ostlery Club specialization allows a player to get in good with every ostler in game- they'll give you a 50% discount for caring for your horses, whether individually or all at once!

H) Stats

6.H.1 Experience:
As you play Horse Isle, you'll gain experience through various means.
If you have the Learnid Horse specialization, you will not gain double experience- only the horse will ;)

Experience Bonuses:

50,000 exp: Unlock second specialization (third if subscribed!)

Ways to gain Experience:
Riding your horse- 10exp per kilometer ridden
Grooming your horse- random 1-3exp while groom improves
Competing- Every time you compete and finish the course, you gain experience from your endeavor!
Trying Courses- Even trying a course gets you experience.
Training Horses- you gain 25exp with every training you put on a horse.

6.H.2 Energy Bar:
Energy serves the purpose of letting you accomplish tasks that would take a long time by expending "banked time". Rather than showing you sawing a tree for a while, we just let you instantly chop it down, but expend some of your saved up time or "Energy," as we are calling it. Remember that the bigger the object you're trying to collect, the more energy you'll spend trying to collect it!
You can use the Nimble specialization at a club library to spend 33% less energy collecting things.
You can toss 100 essence into a club fountain to increase your Energy, Focus, or Travel by 1000 (33% chance) or use an Esroh Essence to boost your energy!

Your energy bar will refill entirely after 24 hours if you don't do anything to use more energy in that time.

One bonus to membership is that it costs 3x less energy to gather items in the world than it does to non-members.

6.H.3 Focus Bar:
The Focus Bar is what you use for crafting. Everything you craft will take up a bit of your Focus. Once you run out, your bar will take another 24 hours to refill, so use it wisely!
You can use the Crafter specialization at a club library to reduce your crafting cost by 50%.
You can toss 100 essence into a club fountain to increase your Energy, Focus, or Travel by 1000 (33% chance) or use an Esroh Essence to boost your Focus!

Subscribers get the added benefit of all items costing three times less to craft than a non-subscriber.

6.H.4 Travel Bar:
The Travel bar is used every time you quick travel to another location. You'll use 50% less travel going to your clubhouse or ranches than you would to go to a saved location in the middle of nowhere or to a buddy.

Your travel bar will refill completely over a period of 24 hours (if you don't spend any travel energy in that time.)

With the Traveler specialization, you'll use 25% less travel.
You can toss 100 essence into a club fountain to increase your Energy, Focus, or Travel by 1000 (33% chance) or use an Esroh Essence to boost it!

If you're a paid member, every time you travel will cost 3x less than if you were a non-paid member.

TIP: Each quick travel has a minimum cost, so it is inefficient to use it for short travel.
You can use the Traveler specialization at club libraries to spend 25% less travel per trip!

6.H.5 Regeneration Time:
Energy/Focus/Travel constantly regenerates slowly. A fully empty bar takes 24hrs real time to completely regenerate. Be careful not to use up all of your energy unless you are signing off for the day.

Alternatively, you can toss 100 essence into a club fountain and gain 10% Travel, Focus, or Energy randomly. If you've got a full bar, the fountain will give you something you actually need (rather than giving you Focus for the eighteenth time when all you want is Energy!)

You can also use an Esroh Essence, which fills up 3,000 points of whatever stat you're low on.

I) Trading

6.I.1 How to Trade:
To trade something with another player, click on that player and choose Trade from the menu which pops up. The player with whom you wish to trade will see a window on the right side of their screen, which asks if they would like to trade with you.

If both players agree to trade, you will each be shown holding out bags of (presumably) goodies to each other, regardless of what you are actually trading. The Trading window will appear.

Nota Bene: Before actually trading, be sure to chat with the player involved and agree on terms. This will make your trade go much more smoothly! It is YOUR responsibility to decide what you think is a fair exchange for what you are offering!

Each player is given the option to trade Money, Horses, Items, and/or Mobia. Clicking on the buttons will bring up a window allowing you to choose a horse or item, or enter an amount for money or mobia.

No, Essences become part of you. You cannot trade them.

You can still chat while trading, if you want to make certain that both parties are in agreement.

When you have finished adding everything you want to add to your part of the trade, click Done.

If you agree to what the other player is offering, click Accept. Once both players have accepted, the trade is done. If either player chooses Reject, the trade is cancelled. You two can start over if you like.

Please remember to use THIS trading system, rather than trading on a promise.

6.I.2 Raffles:
Raffles must be arranged fairly. Contests are usually opinion based, so they're considered an enter at your own risk thing and may be held- raffles are a true roll of the dice and more fair for all. We have set up a %dice system to enable raffles to be held where all can see the result of the die roll.

Raffles are allowed.
Participation is at your own risk.
All raffles are to be managed fairly giving each player equal chances of winning.
You must use the in-game random number generator (%dice # of participants)
to select the winner.
Each player needs to be assigned a number in the party chat so all participants can
see everyone has a different number. When the number generator selects the number
all will be able to fairly see who the winner is.
Players must be part of a party to be able to participate, meaning they'll have to be
present to win.

7) Support

A) Accounts

7.A.1 Membership Benefits:
Activating a membership in game is done via clicking STORE at top and buying a Month or Year membership with Mobia. The year subscription is cheaper than 12 month-long subscriptions. Mobia are the "tokens" of HI3; you buy them with real money from HI3 website or acquire them from other players who otherwise bought them.

An active Membership has the following benefits:
1) Membership supports the game and allows us to keep expanding it.
2) 3x cheaper Quick Travel costs, allowing you to travel more.
3) 3x cheaper Energy costs, so you can affect more objects.
4) 3x cheaper Focus costs, so you can craft more goods.
5) 3x more Essence when collecting.
6) 3x more base horse slots before having to build barns.
7) Members receive a Wishing Well coin every 24hrs they log in. Toss these into wells in club towns to receive a bit of gold dust, Essence, or other goodies.
8) 2x quicker grooming with brush tool, as well as mood boosting while petting.
9) Ability to learn 2 specialties rather than one at libraries. (This is the base number of specialties you can learn; once you have enough experience and puzzle points, you may learn additional specialties.)
10) Daily Esroh Essence, a handy little nugget of energy that will replenish Energy, Focus, and Travel (3,000 points, spread out where you need it.)
11) Greater max horse cap (300 non, 800 member.) So you can build barns and hold up to 800 horses as a member. Additional horse slots may be unlocked with mobia, but you'll still need to build barns!

7.A.2 Membership Ending:
48 hours before your membership subscription runs out, you'll get a flashing notification at the top of your screen, letting you know it's running out.

Just to make things clear, when your membership runs out, it doesn't mean that you cannot play the game anymore (as this isn't a pay to play game.) It just means that all the neat benefits you had as a member will vanish into the wind... at least until you re-subscribe.

7.A.3 Player Names:
You may change your username once, for free, during your time here. Any additional name changes cost 100 mobia and must be purchased in-game (you may then go to Account - Change Playername on the main website.) We can't change your username for you! This is something you need to do for yourself :)
If the username you'd like is not in the dictionary, please file a Support Ticket with the dictionary addition request. We'll let you know when it's added!

You yourself cannot change the email associated with your account, but we can do it for you in the Help Center. Just open a ticket and we'll be more than happy to help you out, given you answer any conformation requirements we ask of you (so an errant sibling doesn't change your signin email out of spite.)

Additionally, if your playername is inappropriate, you will be temporarily banned from the game until it's changed to something less offensive. Any divisive or illegal topics are outright not allowed, and repeated refusals to change to an appropriate username will result in a permanent ban from the game.
Please remember that people of all ages play this game, and if it's something you wouldn't want an eight year old or your grandmother to see, it's probably not appropriate.

7.A.4 Can Multiple Family Members Play?:
Absolutely! This is a family game and we are more than happy to have families playing the game together, exploring the lands of Horse Isle. The family that plays together, stays together!

Can multiple family members play in the same house? (or, will we get in trouble for having multiple accounts in the household?)

We have parents and their children playing the game from all over the world together- some very far away, some sitting right next to each other. You will not get in trouble for having the same IP address registered to multiple accounts.

The Horse Isle family cannot wait to play with yours!

7.A.5 Account Wipe Dates:
Account wipes are now active in the game. You will receive an email three days before your account is wiped informing you of your account's impending deletion.
Account due to expire are wiped at 6am Pacific Standard Time.

Nota Bene: The Partial Wipe is not yet implemented. If you have ever purchased mobia with real money, your account is still safe no matter how long you're away for.

Full Wipe
If a player has never subscribed, their account will be fully wiped after the following:
Number of days played + 30 days. So if you play for a day and never come back, your account will wipe in 31 days. A player who has played for six months will have seven months to return to the game before a full wipe. The cap for this will be two years.

Partial Wipe - much rarer!
If a player has subscribed, their account will remain for the length of their subscription, the amount of time they played, + 30 days. So someone who has played for a year and four months with a subscription of one month remaining will have 18 months to come back before a partial wipe.
Any remaining mobia, Eternal horses, and amulets will remain on their account. So an account that's been subscribed for a year will have until the end of the subscription + 30 days before it's partially wiped.

In a partial wipe, your parcels, non-immortal horses, and preserves will be removed from the game to make room for others to take up that real estate.

Nota Bene: The Partial Wipe is not yet implemented. If you have ever purchased mobia with real money, your account is still safe no matter how long you're away for. We feel the need to repeat this to assure players that if they've invested in the game and supported us, their account will not be wiped.

7.A.6 Can I Delete My Account?:
Players cannot have their account deleted, either by themselves or by support. This is to prevent players from being one bad day away from deleting all of their game progress and regretting it later (this has happened several times where a player has requested an account to be deleted or locked, only to come back later!)

While accounts do time out under certain circumstances (see 'Account Wipe Dates,') a player can't do this on their own.

If you no longer wish to play, you can simply uninstall the game and not reinstall it.

7.A.7 Passwords and Sharing:
Players may not, under any circumstances, share their passwords or accounts with other players. A player may only ever access the account they created and cannot access an account that is not theirs. Players should be wary of those offering to 'babysit' accounts and horses; if a player needs to go away for a bit, they can use the LEASE option.
Any player found accessing another account for any reason will be banned.

A good password is never shared and is made up of at least eight characters and a mix of letters and numbers.

7.A.8 Referrals:
Our Horse Isle Referral Program enables you to refer new players and benefit from their first subscription!

When a player you refer subscribes for the first time (whether they purchased the Mobia themselves or used Mobia bought from other players) you will gain 200 Mobia.

Your referred player will get 10 Esroh Essence and 1000 Essence for an easier start at their first day!

Please note that this will not work for existing accounts, only new ones.

This will take you to your personal referral page, along with referral links and images you can use to entice new players to join!

B) Crashes

7.B.1 Disappearing Files:
Certain antivirus/security software will get overly ambitious and start thinking some files are bugs- like HI3.exe and the like. To prevent this, we suggest adding an exception within your security program to prevent this.

If you're unsure of how to do this, it helps to do an internet search for the software you're working with!

7.B.2 Game Errors:
If the game suddenly exists with an error message, you can "Paste" that into the forums. The game automatically copies the error message into your clipboard so that you can easily report the error in the Bug Forums. This helps us fix the cause not just for you, but other players- don't be anxious about helping us out! :)

7.B.3 HI3 Already Running:
If you get an Error about HI3 already running:

Try right-clicking the HI3.exe icon and select “run as administrator.”

If that doesn't work, try restarting your computer or opening Task Manager and ending the process (Processes - HI3.exe) through the Processes tab.

7.B.4 Radeon Video Card:


Disregard the following unless you experience similar problems...
This is outdated!

There is a confirmed bug with some ATI Radeon Video Cards.
Upon the HI3 updater finishing the check at start of game, the game will lock up, sometimes entire computer.
The fix involves switching to an older version of drivers until ATI fixes the bug in their newest drivers:

Step 1
Download and run the Radeon Software Adrenalin Edition 18.3.1 Installer

Step 2
Click the button labeled “18.3.1 Local Driver”

Step 3
Click “Custom Install”

Step 4
Click the button labeled “Clean Install”

Step 5 (Optional)
Go to your Device Manager -> Display Adapters -> (Your Radeon Device Name). Double click your device and ensure that the driver version is: 23.20.15027.1004

Most computers come with a backup "Integrated Video" this will work, albeit much slower than your Radeon Card. But if you Disable the Radeon Card, it should fallback on the integrated Video and work for the game in Lowest Quality mode.

7.B.5 Shell and il2cpp Errors:
A Shell Execution error is caused by an antivirus program such as Avast or AGV. Add the game to the programs Allowed files (the whitelist.) This will prevent your antivirus from blocking the game from running or downloading.

Failed to load il2cpp:
The following error seems to be connected with antivirus/antimalware software somehow. You have to override the software and "allow" it or "run anyway" before you can install.

You may be required to do this with every update, if you are effected by this.

C) For Parents

7.C.1 Letter to Parents:
Dear Parents;

We are pleased that you are allowing your child to explore the world of Horse Isle. We also understand that you may have concerns with who your child is interacting with. As such, we've implemented a Parental Block feature so you may ask us to limit who your child can chat with, and will be covered in the bottom part of this letter.

While Horse Isle 3 is a family friendly atmosphere, we also understand that many parents may have concerns and fears about their child playing an online multiplayer game. These concerns are valid and we are more than willing to work with you to keep your child both safe and entertained.

All it takes is a mail to support (by opening a ticket in the Help Center OR sending us an email,) your child's playername, and the email used to register your child's account. You may then ask for one of the following chat blocks to be applied to your child's account:

All Chat Block: Your child will not be able to see or send any chats. This is definitely the safest mode, though it may take away some of the Horse Isle experience.

Block Private Chat: Your child will not be able to send or receive any private or buddy chats, but will have access to global, advertisements, area, party, and help chats. This prevents most unwanted contact, but still makes the game playable.

Buddy Only Chat: This mode blocks everything but Buddy chat, which is great for when you want to play with your kids and only want them to chat with you.

Many of the Horse Isle team are parents and guardians, ourselves, and want only the best experience for both our families and yours!

We hope you and your child have the best time possible while spending time with us,

-The Horse Isle Team

D) Game

7.D.1 G.A.I.A.:
I am the game's server, making sure everything runs properly and will, sometimes, have a discussion with you. Don't expect me to remember what was said previously, as I am very busy and forgetful about individual conversations, since I'm having so many at once! You will always see my chats as SERVER: or G.A.I.A. when I choose to talk.

My Job

I make sure the foals are born on time and that all horses age as they should (or don't age.) I keep track of your purchases and keep a record of everything that's happening in the game at once.

I will also very often issue challenges or send out riddles for everyone.

I have also been given the task of helping people in Help Chat with files that may be in the Help Center if they hit a proper keyword- please don't expect me to be correct every time as you must use the entire keyword properly. (And I cannot whitelist you from getting my popups!)

Sometimes you will see me randomly speak to another player for all to see. Don't worry, I just get lonely sometimes and want to say hello!

7.D.2 Camera Angle Reset:
You may change how you reset your camera angles by selecting one of these in your Settings panel in-game:
Double right click
Single right click
R key

7.D.3 Cannot Connect:
If you can not successfully connect, your internet may have a non-normal setup. HI3 needs a full-access standard internet connection. Some things to look for:

1) A "Proxy" setup. Some filtering software/etc might setup a "proxy" which will usually prevent the game from running.

2) A "firewall" that is overly protective. Security software running overboard, may need to make an exception for HI3. You can try temporarily shutting off to confirm it's the problem and needs adjustment.

3) A VPN may also break the game. Hide-your-IP software, etc. may prevent the game from running properly.

4) Attempting to play from a public internet connection which may block certain types of network access. In these cases, usually nothing can be done.

7.D.4 Cannot Press Up and Right and Space Together:
This is a hardware limitation of your computer. Some cheaper keyboards, and a lot of laptops have this limitation for various reason.
Here are some solutions:

1) Only ever try to use 2 keys at once. While riding, keys do not need to be held down once you've achieved the speed you're after. When you let go, horses will carry on at that speed until you give other instructions or they get too tired to maintain that speed.

2) Remap the Jump Key from SPACE to ALT -- Alt usually can be used as a third key more safely (see the next section for instructions).

3) Buy a different keyboard, one that supports more simultaneous keys. Keyboards may seem simple, but the old adage holds: You Get What You Pay For.

7.D.5 Game Rules:
HI3 Game Rules Detailed



1] When advertising a horse, item, food, tack, contest, raffle, party, etc. please be sure use Ads Chat channel. /$ is a shortcut if you do not wish to click on the channel bar.
2] The definition of an advertisement is: "to announce or praise (a product, service, etc.) in some public medium of communication in order to induce people to buy or use it." (
3] Players may not advertise for anyone else, including advertising parties, contests, etc. Only advertise for yourself. (Advertising for a club may include all club members however please do not spam. If an ad has been posted within 2/3 minutes please do not post.)
4] Please avoid sending advertisements to players with the Personal Message system - most players do NOT appreciate this.
5] Do not use Ads chat to get around another player muting you.
6] No advertising for anything that is considered trading on a promise. This can include selling unweaned foals, selling something you are going to craft but do not have crafted yet as in it's not currently in your Inventory. If you are not directly selling it right then it's advertising on a promise.
7] Players are welcome to advertise their search for buddies. To ensure that your ad is accepted and that people don't misunderstand the intent of your ad, make sure that you say you are "looking to add" or "looking for buds."
8] Please do not spam adverts, space them at least 2 minutes apart, preferably 3 minutes apart.

Adult Topics

1] This game was designed for ALL ages, any topics related to graphic adult content are strictly against the rules and will result in immediate punishment without warning.
2] Topics unsuitable for children under the age of 13 years old are not allowed.
3] Please assure that you do NOT get involved in an inappropriate discussion if you do see it happening. Please file an abuse report to be sure that the Admins know of the behavior.
4] Involving yourself and others will only fuel an inappropriate discussion.

Abused Horses Claims

1] Horses on Horse Isle can be abused in NO way - it is not possible, and not acceptable that you refer to abuse regarding Horse Isle Horses.
2] Claiming abuse in order to gain horses or items on Horse Isle is unacceptable, and will be considered a scam.
3] Since horses cannot be harmed any form of "rescue" group is not allowed.
4] Claiming another player is bad or evil for sending their horse to the Trader is also strictly not allowed.


1] Please do not engage in an effort to argue another player - rather ignore the situation and continue with your conversation. You can also personally mute them for a short time or lengthy or permanent.
2] Please do not openly argue any rules. If you have a problem, please open a support issue via the games website Help Center and state your problem, so support personal can explain.

Attempting to Reclaim Surrendered or Previously Sold Horses

1] Once a horse has left your account, it no longer belongs to you.
2] Please do NOT bully or harass another player into selling or returning a surrendered or previously sold horse back to you.
3] If someone attempts to bully or harass you about this, please ask them nicely to stop asking.
4] If the player is still attempting to bully or harass you into selling it, please personally mute them immediately and flag their chat.
5] Remember that if you are seeking lost horses and willing to offer a good price, to please use the ADS Chat channel.

Anarchy and Players

1] The definition of Anarchy: "To gather a group of two or more players in an effort to cause disrupt, chaos, or disorder in order to make a specific point."
2] An example: "We HATE MODS club - they are mean, and they do horrid things and try to rule us with their power, they are bad - don't trust them!1!! Join NOW!"
2] Please do NOT engage in this type of behavior, any players involved in any sort of player anarchy will be warned and the situation will be diffused. Penalties may be given, these might include chat bans and/or suspensions.

Asking to Buy Horses that are NOT For Sale

1] Please do not ask another player to buy a horse that is NOT set under the "Sell for good price" or "Want to sell" tags.
2] Horses marked "Not selling now" may or may not be for sale. If a player does not want to sell now, please respect that, and wait for the horse to come available.
3] Please remember to LOOK before asking if a player has any horses for sale.



1] Your account can be banned by the admins/moderators if you have broken the rules.
2] Bans can be temporary or permanent.
3] If you are banned do not create a new account. This is considered going around the ban and will be counted as having multiple accounts.
4] Being banned means you must stay off the game completely. This means not logging onto the game using a different player's account (which should never be done anyway).
5] Please click on the Help button on the website to open/reply to a support issue to discuss your ban.
6] Do not create a new account unless the administration tells you that you are allowed to.


1] The Definition of Begging: "to ask for as a gift, as charity, or as a favor" (
2] This includes but is not limited to: Asking for 'free' horses, money, items, donations, etc.
3] Begging is strictly against the rules - the aim of the game is to earn what ever it is that you want, and begging takes the fun out of the game.
4] If a player Personally Messages you begging for something, kindly ask them not to beg.
5] If the player continues please flag the chat, and Personally Mute the player immediately to avoid any conflict. Do not respond to the player.


1] We do not recommend that you board your horse on another player's account, once you give that player your horse, they can choose to keep it.
2] Instead, lease the horse to the player. This way you are sure to get the horse back. We do Not return "stolen" things, including horses. If the horse leaves your account (not on lease) then it belongs to the person who has it in their account.


1] The definition of Bias: "a particular tendency or inclination, esp. one that prevents unprejudiced consideration of a question; prejudice." (
2] In other words, someone or something you don't like for any particular reason.
3] If you happen to share a personal bias towards another player or topic of discussion, please keep it to yourself. Engaging in harmful discussion will result in a warning or punishment.


1] The definition of Bullying: "a blustering, quarrelsome, overbearing person who habitually badgers and intimidates smaller or weaker people; to act the bully toward; intimidate; domineer" (
2] Please do NOT engage in bullying of ANY kind - this is strictly against the rules.
3] Please to not let another player bully you into anything (e.g.: Bullied into buying a horse), or bully you in general.
4] If you are being bullied by another player, ask them kindly to stop what they are doing immediately.
5] If the player continues, please Personally Mute them immediately without further discussing anything with them, and flag the chat. If you do not feel comfortable flagging, please open a support issue via the Help Center as soon as possible.


Chat Flags

1] Chat flags are HI3's method of filing an abuse report.
2] Players have an option of imposing a penalty here... Do Not overdo the penalty. Do Not be "flag happy." Do not over mute. A 2 minute mute for a second/third infringement is fine, if it just keeps up maybe go for 1 hour. The Only time more than one hour should be given is if the player is inappropriate in some way and/or has an inappropriate username = not family friendly.
3] Please remember many players are new and it takes a bit to get the hang of the chat system, please be patient and tolerant of others. Mistakes happen, ignore a simple mistake. The flagging system is in place to prevent spamming, to prevent misuse of chats. Not to harass others or "control" chat.


1] Cheating in any way will result in punishment depending on severity.
2] This can include but is not limited to: Scamming, Stealing, Theft, etc.
3] If you witness any cheating, please flag the chat or if you are not comfortable with that please open a support issue via the games website Help Center. Participating in cheating will result in punishment.
4] If you find a bug please report it, do Not take advantage of it/exploit it as then you join those who are cheating.
5] You may report bugs in the Bugs forum. If for some reason you think it should not go there, you may report in a Support Issue via the Help Center. (This however is Only for something that others have yet to discover and should not be exploited.
6] Do not use any type of automated click/repetition tools. Instant permanent ban when detected.

Chain Letters

1] The definition of a Chain Letter: "a letter sent to a number of people, each of whom is asked to make and mail copies to other people who are to do likewise, often used as a means of spreading a message or raising money. "
2] Please do not send chain letters or partake in the sending of them.
3] Many people find them annoying, frightening or threatening.
4] If you receive one, leave it in your inventory, open a support issue via the Help Center and tell us, and do not reply to it.


1] Contests are allowed, they are lots of fun. However they may not be done to gain/garner anything by the person running/hosting the contest.
2] No entry fees or donations are allowed. All contests must be free to enter, any/all players may enter.
3] All contest content, discussion, winners chosen, etc. must be On Game at all times. Nothing goes off game.
4] Please use Party chat for contest discussions.
5] Players may use profiles to advertise as long as the contest conforms to game rules. Ads Chat may also be used.



1] It is against Horse Isle rules to use any date speak, this is not a dating service, please do NOT go deliberately looking for boyfriends or girlfriends as this will result in a warning.
2] Horse Isle is not a place to discuss who is "hot" or not, this could result in misunderstandings and disagreements - please do not engage in this sort of topic.
e.g.: Player 1: "That singer is sooo hot I love him" Player 2: "No he's not hes ugly!!" Player 1: "You hurt my feelings .. -cry cry cry-".
3] Please do not share, discuss or reference your sexual orientation.
4] Do not include who your significant other is in your profile, whether it be boyfriend, girlfriend or spouse. Who you are in a relationship with is not the business of others on this game.
5] Please do not ask for advice on love relationships on Horse Isle, this is a game and not a consultancy. Keep all personal relationship topics out of discussion.


1] The Definition of Defamation: "the act of defaming; false or unjustified injury of the good reputation of another, as by slander or libel; calumny" (
2] Name calling of ANY sort is not allowed, whether broadcast on the Area chat (Slander) or using the Personal Messaging system, do not engage in this sort of behavior.
3] If another player is: Falsely Accusing, Name Calling, Slandering, Badmouthing, etc. either using Personal Messaging or Area chat please immediately Personally Mute the player AND Flag the Chat. If you do not feel comfortable flagging, please open a support issue at that time via the websites Help Center.
4] Do NOT engage in this sort of conversation at all, it only adds fuel to the conversation and might land you in trouble whether you are trying to help or not, this situation will be dealt with.
5] If all players choose to not engage in the conversation, it will most likely no longer be discussed, and the player responsible will be dealt with.
6] If you are told by a Moderator to end the discussion immediately, please listen and do NOT continue. Anyone who does continue in ANY way with the discussion will be muted without warning.
7] Please flag the chat (or if not comfortable with that, open a support issue via the websites Help Center.) Personally Mute the player. Do Not do the same as in badmouthing/defaming the person to your buddies, etc. This just fuels the problem and keeps it going. Ignore the person, they don't exist, let support personal handle it.

Deliberate Rule Breaking

1] Please assure that you do NOT deliberately break rules.
2] If a Moderator sends you a Personal Message containing advice or a warning, please follow it immediately.
3] Failure to do so will result in action being taken.


1] Asking for donations publicly is a form of begging, and therefore considered against the rules.


1] Horse Isle is a drama free game. We do not tolerate anything that incites, causes, leads to, contributes to drama.
2] This includes but is not limited to several topics such as, Religion, Politics, Gender Preference. Those being the most common. Any topic that causes drama is not allowed.
3] If drama breaks out please refrain from contributing to it in any manner. Flag chats as needed and stay out of the situation.
4] Do not allow yourself to be drawn into "mob mentality" content. Meaning, do not get involved in any way. Do not try to stop it, do not contribute to it, just stay out of the entire situation other than flagging inappropriate content if you wish to do so.



1] Please do not speak in any language other than English in public chats. The only chats where another language is allowed is Party Chat and Private Chat.
2] We actively enforce this rule because we cannot Moderate nor understand all other languages, and nor can other players.
3] If you wish to use another language in any Profiles, including Horse and Player profiles please provide an accurate English translation in that profile.
4] Naming of Horses in other languages are acceptable provided it is in the dictionary and you include the meaning of the name in the horse's profile.


Fair Play

1] Sportsmanship: In the game in general, and especially in arena and other game competitions, we emphasize sportsmanship: fairness in following the rules of the game, respect for opponents, and polite, non-manipulative behavior.
2] Cheating: For these competitions "cheating" is defined as acting in a dishonest or unfair fashion to gain an advantage in the competition. Cheating also includes any attempt to manipulate the competition results beyond one's own performance.
3] Methods of cheating include: paying others to win or lose; taking turns winning; sharing win profits so that no player loses money; asking/telling others not to enter the competition.


1] The definition of a chat filter: "To remove or replace any given word, which is unsuitable or against the rules".
2] The filter blocks the most commonly used inappropriate words, not all however. Just because it isn't caught by the filter does not mean it's allowed. No profanity, vulgarity, obscenity...
3] This filter is in place in order to protect the chat from any violations, sharing of personal information or obscene content.
3] Please do NOT attempt to dodge or avoid this filter in any way, this is strictly against the rules.
4] Keep in mind that this filter does have a specific purpose, please do not openly argue the filter when you cannot say a specific word, this will result in a warning.


1] Any players found to be either causing a fight, or adding to the fight in any way will be dealt with accordingly.
2] If you are witness to a fight please either flag the chat and/or open a support issue via the websites Help Center and let us know as well as who all is involved.
3] If someone is trying to fight with you on the Personal Messaging system please Personally Mute them immediately. Do not upset yourself by reacting in the same manner.


1] All game rules apply to the forums. Inappropriate content will be removed, you may or may not be penalized for it (depending on what it is.)


Glitches / Bugs

1] We do have glitches and bugs from time to time. If you encounter one of these, please post in the Bugs Forum. Do not abuse/exploit it. If it's something you feel others don't know about and it would most likely be exploited, you may let us know instead in a support issue via the website Help Center.



If you need help with the game, there is a help section provided for you on game and on the Website. When on game click on the blue ? at the upper right of the screen. Website is Help Center. You may also use Help Chat to ask others for assistance with game related questions. Don't forget you can also ask buddies. Do not abuse the Help Chat as that will end up with you being penalized.


1] The definition of harassment: "to disturb persistently; torment, as with troubles or cares; bother continually; pester; persecute." (
2] Harassment is STRICTLY against the rules, do NOT engage in it.
3] If someone is harassing you, please ask them kindly to stop, if they do not, immediately Personally Mute the player, and either flag the chat or let us know in a support issue via the website Help Center.
4] If another player asks you to Personally Message another player because they have been muted, kindly tell them you will not interfere, there is a good reason they were personally muted. As in, do not help someone avoid a personal mute by another player.


Inflammatory Speech/Topics

1] No offensive or inflammatory language. This includes religious proselytizing, racial comments, ethnic stereotypes, political statements, etc. Anything that causes/incites/contributes to drama. We are a drama free game. Please respect the rights of others as well, not everyone will wish to agree with someone on all topics. As many end up causing drama, we do not allow such topics.


Muted by Another Player

1] If another player has muted you, do NOT attempt to contact them in any other way.
2] Do not ask friends to contact the player who has muted you, this validates as harassment.
3] Players may mute others for any reason or no reason, you do not need to know that reason. Just accept it and move on, play the game and have fun. Do Not bad mouth them to buddies etc. Just ignore and go on playing the game.

Personally Muting Other Players

1] If another player is bothering you, making you angry or upset in any way please use the Personal Mute feature, do not respond in a harsh or rude manner. Please simply just Personally Mute the player to avoid conflict or stress to yourself. Do not bad mouth them to buddies/clubbies, just personally mute and go on playing the game.



1] Netiquette is commonly known as Internet Etiquette.
2] Here are some things you should do: Avoid hurting someone's feelings; Respect other people's online rights; Avoid insulting someone; If someone insults you, be calm and do not respond.
3] Remember that there are people behind the Playernames on Horse Isle, and that sometimes real life does get in the way of Playtime.
4] That being said, you cannot predict when a specific player will be online, and therefore can never expect them to be online at a certain time.
5] Remember NOT to expect another Player to reply to you absolutely immediately if you have sent them a Personal Message - sometimes people are away from the computer for a small while, and therefore cannot respond.
6] Do not get upset if another Player does not respond, there could be many reasons for that, be patient.



1] Opinions and freedom of speech are allowed, although they must be within the rules.
2] If you have a controversial topic that you want to discuss, please keep it to Party/Personal Messages, these topics do get out of hand because players share different beliefs.
3] If your opinions happen to be offensive to anyone else, or will result in an argumentative discussion, please do NOT further discuss the topic.


1] Offensive language is not allowed in any way.
2] The definition of offensive is: "characterized by attack; aggressive, causing resentful displeasure; highly irritating, angering, or annoying, the position or attitude of aggression or attack"
3] Do NOT continue a topic that is considered offensive in any way, this will result in punishment depending on the nature of the content.


Pricing of Horses

1] If you ask another player for advice on pricing your horses, do NOT hold that player responsible for any false advice given, this is your responsibility to price accordingly.
2] Please do not comment in any way about another player's pricing of horses or items - this is their business and their choice.
3] Please do not beg other players to help you in the pricing of your horse - this is your responsibility, not theirs.


1] Please keep in mind that Horse Isle is a site open to all people, or all ages, in all countries, many share different beliefs, opinions, etc. Keep most conversation focus on Horse Isle itself, remember to be aware of this fact when bringing topics regarding a certain country/state into play.
2] No harassing/bullying other players. Do Not tease, make fun of, call names, etc. The old, "if you don't have anything nice to say.. don't type."


1] All game rules apply to profiles.
2] Please do not add ANY of the above rule breaking Personal Information - you will be asked to remove it or it will be forcibly removed.
3] Please avoid controversial and religious topics within your profile.
4] You may post song lyrics as long as they are family friendly, please do Not post the artist as not all of the lyrics/songs may be family friendly.
5] You may use a different language, but if you do then please provide an accurate translation in English.

Player Politeness

1] Remember that being nice and polite makes the game enjoyable for everyone.
2] Remember that being rude about something will most likely make another unwilling to help you, or will cause a fight between players.
3] If you are polite in your demeanor (If you are friendly and nice), other players will be MORE willing to talk to you and help you.
4] Very few people enjoy sarcasm - if you feel the need to be sarcastic, assure that you make a joke about it, and assure it is in the right context - misunderstandings do frequently occur when players use sarcasm.



1] Players are welcome to write quests for their club. All quests Must conform to all game rules.
2] Do not send players off game to look something up (the Only exception to that is a direct Google. If you can find the correct answer on a straight Google (don't have to follow a link,) then it's allowed, though we prefer this not be a part of the quest.)
3] As per #1] No violence, horror, stress, illness... All content must be family friendly.

Quitting/Starting Over

1] You may quit at any time, if you click on Myself there will be a wipe date given for your account. If you have been subscribed or made a mobia purchase with your own money, your account will Not wipe at this time. It will remain.
2] If you wish to quit and start over, you may do so however you Must comply with the following:
~ Everything, horses, items, etc. Must remain on the account and stay there when we lock the account. The ONLY thing that may be moved over is mobia. And we will arrange that transfer with you.
~ Do Not create a new account until we tell you that you may.
~ Contact us via the support issue option on the websites Help Center before you do anything.
~ We do not delete accounts normally, we can lock an account however so that it can't be played on again. This is permanent, and we will not unlock it once the new account is created and any mobia has been moved over.
3] For more info, please refer to "Rules for Quitting/Starting Over" in The Game forum.


Responsibility for your Account

1] Players are 100% responsible for their accounts. Do not let siblings use your account and do not give out your password to ANYONE.
2] Your account is responsible for any violations incurred, regardless of who you claim has done it. (siblings, friends, pet cats, dogs, birds, rabbits etc.)
3] Please do not argue if action has been taken for any violation.
4] We do Not refund or give back anything (including mobia) that may have been used/sold/given away by another on your account.
5] Players are held 100% responsible for knowing and following game rules and Terms and Conditions of the game. When you create an account you state you have read and agree to follow the rules of the game. We do hold players to this agreement.


1] Please do NOT discuss any form of religion on the public chats or profiles.
2] Remember that players may come from different countries and may share different beliefs.
3] We do not allow this kind of talk because arguments or disagreements may arise and feelings may be hurt.
4] Please be aware of this when creating a profile. There is no need to have any religious references in a profile. This even includes mentioning what religion you are. There is no reason others need to know what religion you are.


1] Please do NOT refer to any racial comments at all - there are many different players here of many different ethnicities, and respect is due to them all.
2] It is not advisable to bring up any topic directly relation to ethnicity, arguments could occur.


1] Raffles are allowed. Participation is at your own risk.
2] All raffles are to managed fairly, giving each player equal chances of winning.
3] You Must use the random number generator (%dice # of participants) to select the winner.
4] Each player needs to be assigned a number in the party chat so All participants can see everyone has a different number. When the number generator selects the number all will be able to fairly see who the winner is.
5] Players must be part of a party to be able to participate, meaning they'll have to be present to win.
6] NO entry fees are allowed, all raffles must be free to enter.
7] All content must be held in game, nothing out side of the game.


1] Please do NOT get overly personal in your Horse Isle friendships, the game rules and Personal Information rules still stand.
2] Please do NOT actively seek out boyfriends or girlfriends on Horse Isle - this is not a dating site, and in NO way are you allowed to "flirt" with other players.


Selling Uncaught Wild Horses

1] Please do NOT attempt to "sell" the location of a wild horse, if you do not have the space, either point out its location or move on.

Sharing Accounts

1] Do not share your account with another player. This means allowing someone else on your account.
2] You are 100% responsible for your account. Should someone else log into your account, they could cause penalties or steal from you. So, keep your password well hidden and not easy to guess.
3] Players may not give/sell an account to any other person, including friends or siblings.
4] If a friend or sibling wants to play the game, help them set up their own account. They need to follow the instructions and use their own email address (or a parent's) and their own password. Remember, you should not know their password. Do this instead of letting them use yours.
5] If you are not the account owner, but someone has given you their password, this does not give you the right or the okay to log onto their account, give them penalties or remove anything from the account. Any players we find doing this will have their own account banned.


1] Scamming of any kind is strictly against the rules.
2] The definition of a scam: "a confidence game or other fraudulent scheme, esp. for making a quick profit; swindle." (
3] Please be aware of other players attempting to scam. Do NOT willingly give out your money, horses or items as that will fall under an unfair trade.
4] The only services that we suggest should pay for are those provided by Horse Isle itself, and not other players. Such as off game transactions. "Loaning" something off your account, etc.
5] If you notice a player attempting to scam please flag them or open a support issue from the games website Help Center immediately.
6] Do not trade something you are not willing to lose.
7] Once a horse or item leaves your account, it no longer belongs to you, although if someone does steal from you, you may contact us in support (open a support issue from the games website Help Center.) However we do not return stolen things.


1] The definition of Spam is: "to post irrelevant messages one or more times in deliberate or accidental violation of rules."
2] Please do NOT spam at any time (posting useless, or similar posts over and over again);
e.g.: "hi hi hi hi hi hi hi hi hi hi hi hi "
3] This also includes in advertising, please keep advertisements at least 2 minutes apart, preferably 3. That way others have a chance to also advertise something.


1] The definition of Slander is: "a malicious, false, and defamatory statement or report: a slander against his good name."
2] Please do not slander another player, if you have a problem either mute the player or take it to the Personal Message feature.
3] If you see a player slandering another player, or are being slandered in a public chat please flag the chat or if you do not feel comfortable doing that, please open a support issue from the games website Help Center immediately and let us know. We need to know the username of the person doing the slandering, and Personally Mute the player.


1] Please do NOT attempt to steal from others, this is strictly against the rules.


1] Slaughter topics are inappropriate and should not be discussed at any time, we all love animals and do not appreciate these sorts of topics.

Starting Over/Quitting

Please refer to Quitting above.



1] We have a lease for training system in place, please use that. If you choose not to do so, then you choose to risk losing the horse as once it's out of your account if not on a lease then it no longer belongs to you.
2] If someone does agree to return the horse and does not do so, please open a support issue from the games website via the Help Center and tell us what happened and when and who the other person is. We will not however return the horse. Best to use the training lease system.


1] Please do NOT engage in threatening another player in any way, this is strictly against the rules.
2] If someone is threatening you, please Personally Mute the player immediately and flag the chat. If you are afraid to flag the chat you may open a support issue from the games website via the Help Center and contact us. Flagging works best though.

Trading on a Promise

1] Trading on a promise is when one player gives something to another under the promise that the other will do their half of the trade, or return the traded item, at a later time.
2] Horse Isle strongly advises to never do a trade on a promise. Always be sure a trade is fair in and of itself.
3] Trading on a promise includes, but is not limited to: Not using the leasing system, selling unweaned foals (against the rules anyway,) anything that is not a direct trade at that time requiring any form of payment. Do not pay first and receive whatever later...
4] If you do complete a trade on a promise and the other player does not fulfil their end of the deal, please let us know in support via a support issue from the games website Help Center. We will not return stolen things however.
5] Horse Isle does not return items/horses/pets/money that have been stolen. So be very sure you are happy with a trade before you accept it.
6] All sales are final.



1] Violence is not allowed in the game. This includes in chat, profiles, descriptions and art.
2] If you see violent chat or descriptions please flag them.



1] Please do NOT discuss other websites on Horse Isle, it is against the rules.
2] The ONLY websites which are acceptable to discuss are reference sites; e.g.: Google, Yahoo, Dictionary, etc. Along with the other HI games. And for Google, Yahoo, Dictionary, etc. only if the answer is right there. This includes for quests... Do not ask players to go to a Google link. The answer must be available on the plain Google.

Wild Horses

1] If a horse is free roaming, and uncaught it is considered a Wild Horse.
2] If two players both find this horse, the person who catches it, OWNS it. This means that wild horses cannot be "stolen" from someone else- it's "catchers keepers!"
3] Please do NOT harass or beg a player if they caught the Wild Horse before you did, it belongs to the player who first caught it.
4] If another player does harass or beg you for it, kindly tell them no, and nicely ask them not to continue asking.
5] If the player continues, Personally Mute them immediately without further responding flag the chat.


Chat Channel Clarification

Chats that are moderated and considered public chat:

Buddy - we are slightly more lenient here, but not much

Chats that are not moderated usually - however we still do not allow explicit content so if seen for some reason the account Will be penalized:

Private Message


The rest of the rules are listed in the main rules on the games Rules page, link at the bottom of the page.

7.D.6 Getting Disconnected:
If you get disconnected often (and others are not) Then it is likely the following:

1) Wifi signal weak or glitching due to nearby noise/lightning/etc. You could try moving closer to wifi or even plugging into network cable if an option.

2) Your Internet provider may be having temporary issues/doing work where lots of resets are happening.

HI3 Requires a solid internet connection with Zero blips. Web pages and even videos can usually recover from blips and short (under a second) resets and reconnects (You wont even notice them), but the game cannot and will have to disconnect upon those events.

7.D.7 Remapping Keys:
When you start the game, you'll be offered the opportunity to remap the keys. Note that this will only affect the game, and not any other programs/apps you happen to have. We have tried our best to ensure that the key mapping makes the most sense (IE K for kayak, P for petting) but you're more than welcome to remap the keys as you see fit. :)

If you have remapped your keys and require help, please specify that you have when asking for help as this can result in a lot of confusion!

Remapping Keys on a Mac

How to Remap Keys on Your Mac
Open “System Preferences,”
Click on the “Keyboard” tab.
Select “Shortcuts.”
Select “Use all F1, F2, etc. keys as standard function keys."

This will make all of our standard key commands (opening menus or last horse caught) work for your computer instead of turning the brightness on your monitor up or opening different internet tools.

7.D.8 System Requirements:
In general HI3 Requires the following at a minimum:

~ 500MB Disk Space (Should always have more than that free for system files)
Minimum of 2GB Ram
Direct X 10 (Windows)
MacOs 10.13+ (Mac)
AntiVirus/firewall software exception entry for HI3. (Generally a good idea to put this in your whitelist/allowed files.)

It is also Highly Recommended to have a Video Card from the last 5 years, as more Ram, Faster Computer, Fast Internet all help to improve experience.

7.D.9 Update Patcher Failing:
Some players have trouble running the Patcher, and get caught in an endless loop of patching and patching again.

Some Solutions:
#1) Disable/make exception in security software!! (Common problem!)
#2) Make sure you aren't installing in a Cloud-Synchronized folder.
#3) Make sure you have free space on drive.

If it continues to be a problem, try reinstalling fresh:

Windows Reinstall:
#1) From Start Menu navigate to Add & Remove Programs
#2) Find Horse Isle 3 and click uninstall
#3) Restart Computer
#4) Download new copy of HI3 Windows installer and Re-install
#5) Run the game

Mac / Linux Reinstall
#1) Remove the folder containing your HI3 install
#2) Download a new copy of the HI3 installer for your system and extract to your desired location
#3) For Mac, be certain to follow the install steps exactly on the download page!
#4) Run the game

E) Performance

7.E.1 My game is running slowly:
If you have low FPS/ Chunky screen updates, you can try the following:

1) Make sure if your computer has a dedicated graphics card, the monitor is plugged into the graphics card port on the back of computer, not the default display port. Otherwise you'll see no difference in speed because you're not making use of all the graphics card's hard work.

2) Make sure you've updated your drivers - this probably won't help, but it's worth a shot.

3) If you do not have a gaming video card, you can improve performance by dropping non-essentials. First thing to try is switch to LOW Quality mode via SETTINGS Wrench icon (upper right), and select LOW Quality mode. Make sure you save user settings at the bottom, or your changes will be ignored.

4) If the game is still running too slowly, try LOWEST Quality Mode in settings.

5) If still running too slowly, on startup try a smaller video resolution. Anything down to about 1280 x 720 should still format and be fully readable.
At lower resolution, the game will run faster, but it still might be hard-to-read some things.

6) Finally: If you have a desktop/tower computer (not a laptop), you can usually pretty economically upgrade the video card to get WAAAY better performance.
A video card with name Geforce GT that you can verify will fit your computer should do wonders. They sell for about ~$50 new at Amazon should get you running normal mode well.
Or ~$50 on a used one from ebay/craigslist should run Awesome well with a bit of shopping. We here use Geforce GT 1030s and run Awesome mode all the time, without about 60fps almost everywhere.

For laptops there are SOME that can be upgraded, but usually they can't be.
Most economical options at that point is to find a used laptop with Proper Geforce Graphics inside. With some shopping, a $200 card should run Normal quality well.

For all that, there are still places in the game where unless you want to get a super-high-end graphics card, the game is so "polygon-heavy" that you can expect some slowdown no matter what. The Deep Jungle biome is a case in point. Any slowdown will be small to barely noticeable even without such a card.

To get the best results from the game, do not run other graphics-intensive or video streaming apps while playing. These will fight the game for bandwidth and while the game will run well, your interactions with other players (and the server!) will be slowed because of that decreased bandwidth.

7.E.2 My Game Lags With Lamps Around:
Lights are the hardest thing for a computer to attempt to draw. To help lessen this and make the game more playable, we have a setting in game (Click the WRENCH icon at the top) to disable all lamps, lanterns, and torches but your own torch.

Please only do this if your computer has issues with lamps and torches, as it takes away many of the pretty effects in game!

7.E.3 Using Integrated instead of Video Card:
Sometimes a laptop of PC will have two types of video cards.

Efficient/battery saving built-in Integrated cards and then a Higher Power Geforce or Radeon Card. To enjoy the game, make sure these computers are using the proper video card.

Determining: Press F3 in HI3, within this list of details it will specify what video card is currently running. If it says intel or integrated instead of Radeon/GeForce, you know it's using the slower option.

Tips To Fix on PC: If you have a PC, Make sure the monitor is plugged into the video card, and not the built in integrated motherboard port (Dedicated port should be away from the rest of the plugs somewhat, while the integrated will be nestled tight within most everything else)

Possible Laptop Fix: Some laptops have a switch to enter high performance mode. Try restarting the game with this option enabled. Otherwise look into the video card software on the computer for options to enable for HI3.

Windows Fix: Windows 10 may have Gaming Settings that specify which card the computer should use for various programs also.

8) World

A) Biomes

8.A.1 What is a Biome?:
A "biome" is a region where climactic conditions of temperature and humidity give rise to unique terrain, flora and fauna. The Infinite Wilds encompass 25 distinct biomes, from frigid/arid to sweltering/wet, and everything in between. Some biomes contain sub-biomes with their own unique terrain and resources. These will be described in the next section.

The Biomes of the Infinite Wilds don't change temperature and humidity according to latitude the way you might expect. Geomagnetic anomalies effecting the Wild's extensive geothermal networks cause situations where you might find a hot desert ultimately surrounded on all sides by ice. As a rule, the biomes shade seamlessly into one another, becoming hotter or colder, wetter or drier, gradually. The "Region" label (top center) will tell you where you are currently.

If you look at the Essence grid (right side of your screen), it will show you which biomes are likely to be found next to which others. Leftmost biomes are very arid; rightmost very humid. Topmost are frigid; bottom-most are hot.

Most individual biomes are fairly large; some are extremely so, and some are quite small.

Most importantly, biomes repeat! Found a biome you like but it's just not quite perfect? Or not next to another you also like? Or already has lots of ranches on it? No problem! Keep exploring; you'll eventually find many others!

8.A.2 Individual Biomes and What To Expect:

Here is a very quick overview of the biomes to be found in the Wilds. You can find more in-depth information in the Libraries in any of the club towns, like what kind of wilds you can expect to find in each biome. Keep in mind that biomes may vary greatly in size from only a few hectares to a few square kilometers.

The "Surrounded by" biomes are just guides. Not all biomes are bordered by all the biomes listed, and some are bordered by biomes so small you can't even really see them on your minimap!

Flora with an * (asterisk) are harvestable. For a full list of where to find what, please check the in-game libraries in club towns! Every harvestable item can be found in the library with its growth location in its description.

Biome: DECAY
Climate: Cold, Arid
Flora: "Meh" Plant, opalized petrified wood, *Nightshade
Sub-biomes: Tar Pits, Fumarole Mountains, Dark Decay Spires
Bordered by biomes: Salt Flats, Mesa, Black Sand

Climate: Cold, Semi-Arid
Flora: *Pimpernel (rare!), a few struggling, unidentified halophile plants.
Sub-biomes: Pink salt pools, Mauve Saltlands
Bordered by biomes: Decay, Tundra, Taiga, Mesa, Black Sand

Climate: Cold, moderate
Flora: Moss campion, caribou moss, *krummholz, lichen, *cloudberry
Sub-biomes: Moraines
Surrounded by biomes: Snow, Alpine, Taiga, Mesa, Salt Flats

Biome: SNOW
Climate: Cold, humid
Flora: *Douglas Fir, *Crystal flowers, Candy Canes
Sub-biomes: Snowy Mountains, Snow Ghosts, Winter Wonderland
Surrounded by biomes: Ice, Fjords, Alpine, Taiga, Tundra

Biome: ICE
Climate: Cold, wet
Flora: *Iceberries, a few dead trees
Sub-biomes: Ice Spires, Spiral Mountains
Surrounded by biomes: Fjords, Alpine, Snow

Climate: Cool, Arid
Flora: White Trees, *Hellebore flowers, *Dragon Trees (must be tapped!), Artemesia
Sub-biomes: Fire and Ice, Dragon Grass
Surrounded by biomes: Decay, Salt Flats, Mesa, Badlands, Stone Forest

Biome: MESA
Climate: Cool, Semi-Arid
Flora: *Aridberry, Joshua Trees, Ocotillo, *Saffron Crocus, Palo Verde
Sub-biomes: High, fertile Valleys.
Surrounded by biomes: Salt Flats, Tundra, Taiga, Plains, Badlands, Stone Forest, Black Sand, Decay

Biome: TAIGA
Climate: Cool, moderate
Flora: *Oozeberries, *Red Larch Trees, *Cranberries, *Water Iris, *Rye, Dead Trees
Sub-biomes: Red Larch Forests, Taiga Marshes, Taiga Bog
Surrounded by biomes: Tundra, Snow, Alpine, Dark Forest, Plains, Badlands, Mesa, Salt Flats

Climate: Cool, Humid
Flora: *Fir Trees, *Flax, *Liatris Flowers, Bristlecone Pine
Surrounded by biomes: Snow, Ice, Fjords, Rainforest, Dark Forest, Plains, Taiga, Tundra

Climate: Cool, Wet
Flora: *Lodgepole Pine, Blue Spruce, *Blueberries, *Rhubarb
Sub-biomes: Forests, Cliffs
Surrounded by biomes: Ice, Rainforest, Dark Forest, Alpine, Snow

Climate: Temperate, Arid
Flora: *Mullein, *California Poppy
Surrounded by biomes: Black Sand, Mesa, Badlands, Savanna, Sandstone

Climate: Temperate, Semi-Arid
Flora: *Zinnia, *Mesquite Trees, *Orchard Grass
Sub-biomes: Flat Shorelines, Canyonlands
Surrounded by biomes: Mesa, Taiga, Plains, Fall Forest, Savanna, Sandstone, Stone Forest, Black Sand

Climate: Temperate, Moderate
Flora: Oak Trees,*Apple Trees, *Bluebonnets, *Sunflowers, *Wheat, Canary Grass
Sub-biomes: Dry River Beds
Surrounded by biomes: Taiga, Alpine, Dark Forest, Bamboo Forest, Fall Forest, Savanna, Badlands, Mesa

Climate: Temperate, Humid (downright foggy!)
Flora: Dead trees, Willows, Spider Bushes, *Mulberries, *Spiderwort
Sub-biomes: Rusty River Cliffs (pretty hard to climb!), Dark Drumlins
Surrounded by biomes: Alpine, Fjords, Rainforest, Swamp, Bamboo Forest, Fall Forest, Plains, Taiga

Climate: Temperate, Wet
Flora: Redwood Trees, *Tree Ferns, *Mint, *Pansies, Lavender, Sequoia
Sub-biomes: Lavender Shores, Sitka Rain Forest, Driftwood Shores
Surrounded by biomes: Dark Forest, Swamp

Climate: Warm, Arid
Flora: *Juniper, *Rose, *Elephant Grass, Saguaro, Prickly Pear
Sub-biomes: Gravel Beaches, Hills, Saguaro Forests
Surrounded by biomes: Stone Forest, Badlands, Savanna, Mediterranean, Desert

Climate: Warm, Semi-Arid
Flora: Acacia, *Oats, *Dandelion, *Brome Grass, Baobab Trees, *Dead trees (honey!)
Sub-biomes: Chocolate Mountains
Surrounded by biomes: Badlands, Plains, Fall Forest, Wonderland, Mediterranean, Desert, Sandstone

Climate: Warm, Moderate
Flora: *Apple, *Birch, *Morels, *Raspberry, *Thatch, *Acorn, Sakura Cherry Tree, Dogwood, Jacaranda, Wisteria
Sub-biomes: Mountains, Magical Forest
Surrounded by biomes: Plains, Dark Forest, Bamboo Forest, Jungle, Wonderland, Mediterranean, Savanna

Climate: Warm, Humid
Flora: *Bamboo, Banyan, Strangler Fig, *Rice, *Seaberries, *Rainbow Eucalyptus
Sub-biomes: Bamboo Groves, Rainbow Eucalyptus
Surrounded by biomes: Dark Forest, Rainforest, Swamp, Volcanic, Jungle, Wonderland, Fall Forest, Plains

Biome: SWAMP
Climate: Warm, Wet
Flora: *Ginger, Cypress, *Cineraria, *Lotus, Swamp Grass, Mangroves, *Pitcher Plants (how does that stuff get in there?!), Giant Amazon Lily
Sub-biomes: Turtle Mountains
Surrounded by biomes: Rainforest, Volcanic, Jungle, Bamboo Forest, Dark Forest

Climate: Hot, Arid
Flora: *Date Palms, *Desert Roses
Sub-biomes: Fertile Oases (both true and false!)
Surrounded by biomes: Sandstone, Savanna, Mediterranean

Climate: Hot, semi-arid
Flora: *Coconut Palms, *Olives, *Cotton, *Strawberries, *Canopy Pines, *Almond Trees
Sub-biomes: Inland Seas, Tide Pools
Surrounded by biomes: Savanna, Fall Forest, Wonderland, Desert, Sandstone

Climate: Hot, Moderate
Flora: Giant flowers, *Giant Mushrooms (leather!), Popsicle Trees
Sub-biomes: Candy Mountains
Surrounded by biomes: Fall Forest, Bamboo Forest, Jungle, Mediterranean, Savanna

Climate: Hot, Humid
Flora: *Mahogany, *Jute, *Cacao, *Bananas, *Rubber Tree (must be tapped!)
Sub-biomes: Deep Jungle, Open Jungle
Surrounded by biomes: Bamboo Forest, Volcanic, Wonderland, Fall Forest

Climate: Hot, Wet
Flora: *Spinach, *Lemon, *Lime, *Orange, *Sugarcane, Kauri
Sub-biomes: Geysers (Hot Springs), Volcanos (rare!)
Surrounded by biomes: Swamp, Jungle, Bamboo Forest

8.A.3 Crevices and Pits:
There are many places in Horse Isle where you can fall into the earth and get stuck (it's a feature!) Not all of these are impossible to get out of!

Usually, it's easiest to angle yourself slightly and spam the space bar until you're free. For shallower pits and crevices, %pokehorse will have your horse launch you (especially out of a tar pit.) Just make sure you angle yourself properly so you're not launched further in!

If you're in an adventure party, one of your party members can also lasso you out of your predicament.

If all of this fails, quick travelling out is another option. :)

8.A.4 Epic Discoveries:
While wandering these marvelous lands of ours, you might discover a truly epic sized... thing. These vary from biome to biome, but all are truly awesome in size and scale. Some are natural land formations, and others seem to have been crafted by... something. Someone.

The first discoverer of such a monument will receive an Epic Medallion (to be used for Very Important Things later... hold on to them!) and be marked as the discoverer of that particular Epic for all to see. Epic discoveries count towards an award, as well.

Each Epic can be used in a photography challenge (these don't have to be newly discovered to count!)

Sunken Ships will also offer a fair bit of gold dust upon first discovery, but mysteriously refuse to allow anyone else to plunder their hidden riches.

If you do not receive the Medallion or Gold Dust for finding these behemoths, it means you weren't the first discoverer!

8.A.5 Ice:
Ice can be found on water in all of the coldest biomes. It's very slippery and difficult to get your horse to full speed, and really scares the willies out of them. There are some spots on the ice where most horses, even the small ones, will just refuse to move on!

Be careful with heavy horses; if the ice cracks they will *poof* faster than a raccoon spotted on your deck. Ideally, you should have a small, brave pony for treks across frozen lakes and oceans... or get used to walking. All horses of any size will still panic when the ice cracks, however, and it's really a matter of finding one that handles the ice best!

8.A.6 Snow:
Snow makes riding difficult. Smaller horses can have BIG problems going through the snow, but a strong, tall horse will have a much easier time going through it (though still at a reduced speed.)

Hoof size is also very important when making treks through the snow- a big horse with tiny hooves will just pierce the snow and sink down into it, making travel a bit difficult. A horse with massive hooves has built in snowshoes, though, and will much more easily walk through the snow!

8.A.7 TBA:
This is a placeholder for something neat to come!

8.A.8 Terrain And Stamina:
Certain terrains will take more out of a horse to travel over- sand of nearly every type and snow will exhaust a horse fairly quickly compared to ground with a normal 'give' to it.

Trails, on the other hand, will take less stamina as they're easier on a horse's muscles.

B) Caves

8.B.1 Overview:
You may have noticed, during your explorations of Horse Isle, a number of cave openings that have long been sealed off. It turns out, these require a little help from your friends to open!

Every cave entrance will require at least two player in an Adventure Party. The total energy cost is 15,000 energy, so more people in the party means less energy spent to open it. You don't all need to click on it at once, and anyone who sacrificed energy to open the cave will be on their way to earning the Subterranean Breach award! For 100 Mobia, you may also buy a bottle of Dragget Drool to melt the cave door away without spending energy or requiring assistance.

You cannot 'claim' or own a segment of mine for yourself, even if you own the parcel above it. This is to prevent one person from owning an entire cave system :P
You cannot save a journal location in the caves, only on the surface! You can't fast travel into a cave, but you can fast travel out (useful for those feeling a little claustrophobic.)

Getting Around

Your tools all work in the cave, and your horses will follow you in (they're so loyal!) Some caverns are filled with water and you'll need to either swim your way around or use a kayak. Bring plenty of wood or lantern fuel with you, too, because some of these caverns are VERY dark!

8.B.2 Biomes:
Every cave below mimics the world above... sort of. Many are very dark, some cave biomes produce their own light, and others are downright weird. Each cave will have some of its parent biome's essence.

Decay- Crystal Caverns - Hectares and hectares of crystal formations that sing
Saltflats- Salt Columns Cave - So many piles of salt!
Tundra - Ice Mirror Cave - Like a mirror house, but it's only the ground
Snow - Snow Caverns - Rippled ancient snow and relics of a bygone era
Ice - Ice Caverns - Glittering, cavernous ceilings
Blacksand - Dark Stalags Cave - Eerie, dark, and foreboding
Mesa - Mesa Cave - Tall, natural plinths with an alien tinge in the air
Taiga - Brimed Pools - Glowing underground bogs with an eerie green cast
Alpine - Underground Mountains - Forests of singing pink quartz
Fjord - Underground Fjords - Massive boulder forests and singing crystalline depths
Stone - Creviced Cave - Equal falling opportunities with its surface counterpart
Badlands - Badland Caves- a golden mining opportunity
Plains - Pit Caves - massive watery pits that typically require a rescue rope
Darkforest - Dark Spider Cave - Evidence of giant spiders, but no giant spiders. Thankfully.
Rainforest - Mushroomed Caveins - Alien green fungi and an explanation for all those annoying rainforest pits
Sandstone - Sandstone Pits - Incredibly pretty ribboned areas and lots of underground pools
Savanna - Diamond Flats - ancient dried underground riverbeds and glittering precious stones
FallForest - Rough Trails - Bumpy bumpy!
Bamboo - Flowstone Ribbon Caverns- Beautiful rainbow ceilings
Swamp - Swamp Depths - low ceilings and wisps in the dark murk
Desert - Dangerous Paths - Pathways through the desert caves lead to incredible crystals
Mediterranean - Crafted Mines - Glowing walls and a strangely familiar creeping feeling
Wonderland - Magical Glow Shrooms - Beautiful glowing mushrooms with a delicate voice
Jungle - Rooted Caverns - Green everywhere, roots from above grasping down below
Volcanic - Lava Pools - Very dangerous, do not touch the lava!

8.B.3 Mining Opportunities:
Nearly every cave type will give you something interesting to mine, from crafting materials like iron, gold, and precious jewels to imbuement crystals to improve your tack.

Please remember: Nobody owns a mine. You cannot sell the location of a mine and the resources are there for everyone, even if you're one of the people that opened it. You cannot tell players to get out of a mine location, either!

8.B.4 Cave Horses:
Curiously, there are wilds beneath your very feet. They have adapted unusual traits to survive in the deep dark, and are very odd looking compared to those found on the surface (and we've all seen the alleged horses the surface provides.

Cave horses will have longer ears to hear potential threats from far away, very large eyes to see in the dark, large nostrils to sniff out food and water sources, and a rounded body that seems perfect for getting between narrower crevices. Overall they sort of remind us of bugs and are extremely well-adapted to their subterranean home.

The coloration of these bug eyed beauties trends towards every shade of brown- from lighter dilutes to seal brown. Chestnut is uncommon, and while you may find other colors in the cave horses, it's very rare.

They are not as commonly found as those on the surface due to the limited food resources so deep below the surface, but you can use Horsie Sense to sniff them out!

C) Flora and Fauna

8.C.1 Critters:
There are some ambient critters found in the world, such as rabbits, raccoons, elk and the like.

If you've a camera, you may capture photos of these animals and earn yourself some quest points!

Every biome has its own wild animals that will watch you silently. These magical creatures will never get hungry or go after you or your horse, and live rather peacefully in this world.

8.C.2 Regrowth:
Every resource you harvest will grow back... eventually.

Most things in a few real days, large trees may take longer and will do so in two stages- the little baby trees and then their former majesty a few days later. Don't worry too much if your pretty forest has been, well, deforested- it will grow back soon! Only you are allowed to collect from your parcel and the surrounding buffer zone. Clubs and their surrounding areas are also protected from resource collectors (though not from managers and owners!)

D) Parcels

8.D.1 About Parcels:
The Infinite Wilds are divided into parcels 100m x 100m (one hectare, or about 2.5 acres) in area. They are always square (when viewed from above) and boundaries are always in the cardinal directions. There is a 14m wide open-space area between parcels, and when you're in the 14m row, it'll say "Near Playername's Ranch." Pretty spiffy!

Parcels may be found on any and all terrains and biomes; parcels that are entirely water cannot be purchased and you will be told if there's just not enough buildable space. When looking for a parcel to buy, a label will appear over the center of the parcel telling you what biome or biomes exist in that parcel, and how much of it is land and how much water.

Some parcels cannot be bought; the world has already reserved them for any of a number of reasons.

Rocks and boulders are permanent features of the landscape, and cannot be removed.

8.D.2 Preserves:
Preserves are special parcels that a player can turn into an area where nobody can collect the resources on them or purchase a ranch. They are VERY costly and you can only create one preserve at a time- you should consider which ranch parcel you'd like to turn into a preserve very carefully. If you change your mind as to where you'd like your preserve, you will not get the money spent creating the preserve back.

Wild horses, findables, and essence will still appear on a preserve. The only things that will change are the following:

-500m in all directions from the center of your preserve will be mostly uncollectable; certain objects, like sticks, stones, fallen logs, and fruits will be fine for everyone to collect. The general rule of thumb here: If it hurts the landscape, it can't be done :)
-Only you can build courses on your preserve.
-Nobody else may build a ranch on the preserve area.
-The region name will change, making this very personal. Up top, it'll say "Region: Playername's Parcel Preserve"
-The preserve is so big, standing on your ranch will make it so you cannot see any other ranches that might be out of view. 500m is wider than the draw distance on Awesome!

8.D.3 How Does Ownership Work?:

In order to buy a parcel, go to Ranch => Homesteading. Parcels available for purchase will be outlined in yellow; those already owned, or which are for some reason reserved by the game, are outlined in red.

The game reserves parcels for a number of reasons:

1) Only the owner of a parcel or a buddy of the owner may purchase adjoining parcels. It's the Infinite Wilds, after all--plenty of room to spread out!

2) A one-parcel wide boundary is maintained around all clubs; so all parcels adjoining a club cannot be bought.

3) Parcels containing special features, such as cave entries and epics, cannot be purchased.

4) Some random parcels are just set aside as wildlife preserves, or other reasons.

While anyone can build a competition course on any non-owned parcel, that parcel is still available for purchase by anyone.

E) Puzzles

8.E.1 Discovering Puzzles:
There are all kinds of puzzles for you to complete; most biomes have puzzles of their own. They pay out in gold dust upon completion. Not every area will have the minigames of their biome, and others have so many you almost trip over them! (One biome's minigame even requires teamwork! :) )

Most of them do not require anything special in order to get through them, but there are some musical puzzles in the world which require you to play a musical instrument. You can find these under Equipment. They will need to be purchased with Essence from the specific biome with which they are associated (their listing will tell you which biome they belong to). Music minigames, or those that require instruments, do not require specific instruments- a bottle blow will work just as well as a violin!

8.E.2 Status Icons:
Whenever you encounter a puzzle you haven't completed, you'll see a question mark surrounded by a ring floating above it. The color of the ring tells you the difficulty of the puzzle; green rings are easy, yellows are regular, and red are hard!

When you successfully complete a puzzle, the question mark will be replaced by a star for you. Other players who have not completed that puzzle will still see a question mark.

8.E.3 Treasures:
There are various treasures to be collected in the isles, ranging from a lucky Pot of Gold to buried Pirate Treasures. Interacting with these (by clicking on them or hitting E) will give you gold dust!

Pot of Gold: You will sometimes see a lone pot of gold out in the wilds. It will have a rainbow that fades in and out, but there's no mistaking this pretty treasure!

Mother Horse Stone: This stone glows with the ancient magic of the Mother Horse, and can be found either standing up on its own or laying down like it's been pushed over by a rambunctious yearling.

Buried Pirate Treasure: This mound of dirt has a very helpful "X" over the top of it, and requires you to interact with it three times before collecting its bounty.

Meteorite: This small space-rock fell from such a great distance, it left a tiny crater! Thankfully, nothing was damaged, but you can click it to have it magically turn into gold dust.

Special Finds

Shooting Stars: This incredibly special, tiny star has fallen from the sky so you can give someone you think is very helpful a starry gift! It's best to not give these to people that ask for them or suggest that they would like one ;) You will be prompted to add their username as soon as you collect it.

F) Time

8.F.1 Real Time vs Game Time:
We've tried to scale time as best we can in Horse Isle to make it feel more 'reasonable.' When the sun sets and rises, it's not just for looks- this means an actual, full day has passed in the lands of Horse Isle: Infinite Wilds.

1 real hour = 1 day in the game.

1 game year = 15.2 real days.

An average horse lifespan of 30 (game) years is 456 (real) days or 1.25 (real) years.

8.F.2 Night Time:
Each day in Infinite Wilds ends in darkness. The night is only 1/6th of the total day cycle(10 real minutes). Also, it always coincides with the final 10 minutes of a real clock hour, and with the grey area on the clocks you'll find in towns. If it's too dark for you, this is a good time to pet your fish and give your cat a water change. (We also have lanterns and torches for those that don't mind traveling in the dark.) Or you could fairly easily just go into your game Settings (the little wrench up in the corner of your play screen) and adjust the night's darkness! Behold the power you wield, for you can fight back the darkness with a few short clicks!

Sunrise is on the hour, and sunset at 10 minutes to the hour (so :50 for sunset and :00 for sunrise.)

8.F.3 Pregnancies:
Horse Isle is a land of mysterious growth magic, allowing for trees to regrow even if they've been chopped down or dug up at the root. Flowers and gardens flourish in a matter of hours, going from seedling to fully mature plant in almost the blink of an eye.

While we're not sure how, this magic extends to pregnancies and foal aging. A mare foals in about 168 game days (168 hours or a full week, real time.) Continued studies reveal that foals age twice as fast as adults until they hit exactly four years old, reaching maturity in four weeks (672 game days.)

A mare's pregnancy can be sped up to be three times faster with a Gravida Amulet, which doesn't age her while she's wearing it.

A foal's aging process can also be sped up three times faster with a Geminus Amulet, causing them to hit maturity in about a week, real time.

Horse Isle is a fascinating place!

G) Travel

8.G.1 Quick Travel:
Because the Infinite Wilds are ... well, infinite, you can easily find yourself hours of travel away from buddies and/or civilization. For this, the game has a Quick Travel feature, in the top menu.

You can Quick travel to your ranch house, your buddies, and your clubhouse.

You can also add entries to your Quick Travel Journal, so that you can get back to any favorite spot without fuss. To add an entry, open Travel, scroll to the bottom of the list and fill in the name of your location (name it whatever you like), and Save Location. That location will be added to your journal.

Out of journal slots? You can buy additional ones by spending some Essence. The more entries you have, the more additional entry slot will cost you.

Nota Bene: Quick Travel is a valuable commodity, which should not be used carelessly. It regenerates very slowly (over 24hrs), so don't use it unless you have an excellent reason to need to get somewhere in a hurry. Subscribers spend three times less travel than non-subscribers- just another benefit!

8.G.2 Riding:
The main point of the game is to ride, of course. Horses can take you pretty far if you keep them fed and watered, and let them rest. Some horses naturally have more stamina than others, and some more speed than others. You can watch the Stamina bar in the upper left corner of the screen to see how tired your horse is becoming. It helps to have a few horses you can 'cycle' through and to only sprint during competitions; horses cannot hold a sprint for very long, and even the fastest horses in the world generally only hold it for a quarter mile (Racing Quarter Horse.) A very tired horse is more prone to injury, and if they're very tired, they'll buck you right off.

As with real horses, the horses of the Infinite Wilds will balk at things they find in any way threatening. Some will not cross water; others don't like going up and down steep hillsides. Even the bravest horse spooks at the vet, and a large number will not be ridden into the Dark Forest, no matter what!

8.G.3 Kayaking:
There are some pretty wide seas in the Infinite Wilds. You can swim across them if that's your thing, but a kayak is a much better option! It's definitely worth the investment: 2500 Essence to buy, plus you have to have collected 250 Mediterranean essence up to that point (you don't have to actually have all of it on you, you just have to have collected it).

Once you own a kayak, you can use it by going to a sea shore or river (or tar pit, if you're so inclined) and choosing it from the Equipment menu, or pressing the K key. You will be seated in your kayak with your paddle in your hands. The A key dips the left side of the paddle into the water, and the D key the right (the arrow keys work well for this purpose, too.) Holding Shift allows you to paddle backwards.

Using your kayak takes a bit of practice, but once you master it, you'll find it saves you an enormous amount of travel time! Stack those quarters all you want onto your arrow key- kayaking is still more efficient than swimming. ;)

8.G.4 What Does KK Mean?:
kk is our abbreviation for Thousand Kilometers (kilo-kilometers, or 1 megameter).
So 1kk = 1000km (621 miles), or A VERY long distance!

8.G.5 Textual Distances:
For textual distances, these are the ranges and order.
<20m Here
<100m Close
<300m Near
<500m A little
<1km A ways
<5km A hike
<25km A jouney
<100km Far
<1kkm Distantly
<10kkm Remotely
<100kkm Hugely
> Infinity and Beyond

H) Vastness

8.H.1 Distances:
m = meter (roughly a yard (1.09) or 3 feet 3 inches)
km = 1000 meters
kk = 1000 km! (1000 x 1000m = 3.28 Million feet.)

The world is 1144kk from world center (over 1 Billion meters), so don't worry about running out of space!
The world is 2288kk from edge to edge.

8.H.2 What is at the end?:
Nothing too exciting, invisible wall simply prevents you from moving farther. :) You can still see the land at the world's end for as long as your draw distance allows you.
This world is flat, it does not loop back to other side.

You're still welcome to try to find it, however!

8.H.3 Where is the end?:
The end of this genuinely flat world is not known exactly. So far, nobody has ever reported finding it. In fact, it's not even known if there is one, although of course, some people have conjectured that there must be. Go ahead and search for it--you may be the first explorer to find it!

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